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75 Sqn RNZAF Mosquito Detailed Build


Anthony in NZ

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Mike, Zac and Max

 

Thanks guys!!!  Mike the camping got postponed one day because of weather, so off tomorrow now.

Zac....I could watch that all day mate!  Thanks

Max, that is very kind, there are some pretty talented engineers over here and the Warbird scene is pretty strong for a small country.  Reminds me I must crack on with my own humble Auster T.7 rebuild!

 

Cheers guys

Anthony

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Ok, this update is more exciting than me showing you more pics of stressed and riveted  skin panels on the nacelles.

 

Mike Swinburne (Serian01) has revised his rails for me.  We tweaked some distances etc and Mike added the 'fork end' mounts to the rails with the 2 adjustable locking nuts that butt up against the stub mount.

cid_49F29E90-9D51-45A5-80B0-9607532D5052

 

Thanks buddy, they look awesome!!

 

In the meantime I shall go back to finishing off the port nacelle skins...yawn.....

 

Thanks for looking in as always

Anthony

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I finished most of the nacelle skinning apart from some fasteners and raised rivets. 

 

I turned my attention to the wheel wells and was just about to rip out all my scratchbuilt ribs and put in the Eduard set.  When it suddenly dawned on me (as I had blade to plastic)....I have re-set all this area to drop the undercarriage deeper into the well. I also measured all the rib positions off an actual nacelle. This ment that everything was in a slightly different position.  I put an Eduard rib in the space and it was slightly off now.  Ugh....one of the main reasons for buying this set!

 

So now I will have to make all the others myself.  You can see in this pic that I cut the top off the undercarriage support structure and made all the new ribs to fit...

IMG_0280_zps73mheq6i.jpg

 

Oh well, there is still a lot in it I can use...

 

Cheers Anthony

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Archers wonderful rivets applied, went on really well using Mr Mark Setter over Mr Surfacer polished up, thin brass vent tube also added

IMG_0284_zps9dm6boe8.jpg

 

Inboard already sprayed with Mr Surfacer...you can see here my stressed skin effect and riveting

IMG_0297_zps91cns0x1.jpg

 

More dzus fasteners added.  These need to be buffed down with my sanding sponges like the others.  Leaving a nice round 'domed head' fastener.  Still have to figure out how to put the slot in the head yet.  I have to also figure out the rest of the fasteners that have the spring steel attach leaves riveted to the skin.....

IMG_0294_zps73eymope.jpg

 

Tried getting in close here so you could see some of the skin details....it's very subtle and hard to see.

IMG_0299_zpsfxknvte4.jpg

 

Thanks for looking in as always

Cheers Anthony

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Hey Wolf, thanks so much mate...means a lot getting your feedback (and to those who have reacted)!

 

Funnily enough I have my Tamiya Mossie in front of me right now as I was looking at some details on it and I thought I am getting close to closing the fuse up.  I just have to make the instructors instrument panel and finish off the etched dual control rudder pedals.....Squirrel LOL

 

I think I have now qualified to apply to Trumpeter for a job in their riveting department???

 

There is still a lot to do on the lower carb intake, but I may wait until the halves are glued together before I finish that off.

 

Thanks again!

 

Cheers

Anthony

 

 

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44 minutes ago, themongoose said:

Anthony where’d you get your rivets and screw heads from? Iwent back a number of pages but haven’t seen if you’ve posted it earlier. Admiring your work and I’m thinking maybe I can add them to my current build as they sem prominent in all the T-38’s.

 

Hmmm, rivets and screw heads.  Now that's a tricky one.  Being in 24th scale I can get away with more than I can with my 32nd models.  

 

For my riveting I use a riveting tool called 'Rosie the Riveter'.  I think Radu has some really nice ones now days. I draw on the panel lines and run a piece of label maker thick tape(cant think of or find the name) along the line, it is low tack.  I run my wheel along the edge giving a nice even spacing.  Sometimes I have to cut a brass template to get tighter curves etc. After that I use my Hasegawa Tri-tool scriber and press in each dot.  The reason is the riveting wheel leaves a square-ish indent and rivets are round.  Then I sand/buff the surface to finish, leaving a fine row of rivets you can wash, depending on how much you want it to stand out.  Now I know riveting is controversial and the idea of punching holes in a model is wrong.  Trumpeter have giant deep holes and to me I don't like it.  Personally I just like it barely deep enough to be noticed.

 

For my screw head Dzus fasteners I have some plastic sheet as thin as paper with which I punch out little discs with my Waldron Punch & Die set.  These are positioned and MEK'd (I am sure Tamiya extra thin cement will do the trick just as well) in place.  They are buffed to a dome head with a sanding sponge.  For the slot, I haven't figured that out yet.  However I would be uncomfortable doing  this in 32nd scale as I think it will just look like plastic circles stuck all over your model.  In 32nd I would use a Jewelers 'Beading Tool' and press in circles to represent the screw head.  

When it comes to raised head rivets, I use Archers lovely rivets you can buy all over the place on line.  Woody from Archer is  building a wildcat here using his products and I really like the effects he is getting.  He has Dzus fasteners too...probably should have used his in retrospect.  Here is his build here, you will find it very useful

 

Here is how I have been tackling it on my Skyhawk...

 

Hopefully this helps.  Riveting is personal taste, do what you think is right.  My benchmark is Tamiya. I look at their kits and try to emulate what they do.

 

Cheers Anthony

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