Barry Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Hi Matt. To my knowledge all Phantom ailerons would droop I know all USAF Phantoms did. According to the USAF Flight Manual the ailerons have a max down position of 30 degrees. I suspect that they would droop something less than the full 30 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Cool, thanks. I will start looking at my refs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Nice work Barry I can attest to the Phantom having enough 'dangly' bits underneath already just waiting to bite you, as I spent a reasonable amount of time trying to avoiding them on RAF FGR.2 and F-4J(UK) aircraft when I was an aircraft inspector! Cheers Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Thanks Derek! The Phantom's bites could be quite painful. Outside the Sparrow's fins those inboard gear doors were almost deadly! Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 The Phantom's bites could be quite painful. Outside the Sparrow's fins those inboard gear doors were almost deadly! ...So were those lower auxiliary intake doors as well!... Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 Well I decided to make my own flaps as I needed the inboard LE flaps as well. So I cut the flaps off the Tamiya wing and in trying to fit the flaps to the CE wing upper section I can to the conclusion that it was not intended to be cut up and flaps lowered. Resin is too thick and requires too much fitting as there is no built in locating post like on the Tamiya upper wing. It all just became too much to try and get properly position and fitted soooooo………. I have decided to make my own “thin” B model wing. Yup! I’ve cut up a Tamiya wing now to go with the CE set I’ve “executed” . I’ve got the LE flaps for both wings and have built a front spar for both wings. Here’s what the LE Flaps and Wing look like so far. I only managed to cut the bulged section out of the left upper wing so far but I’ve made patterns so the right should go a little quicker. First pictures show “doubler” fitted to inner wing surface with cutout over wheel well. Inner plug fitted; I still have to fit plug that will be finished wing surface or I may just make a plug from thicker material but like the idea of the additional plug that I’ll be able to shim to height. I plan on using the CE gear doors and speed brake and file and sand lower surface bulges flush to lower wing surface. TAFN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 That is madness! I am sure you will get a much cleaner result this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 That is madness! I am sure you will get a much cleaner result this way. You right it will give me much better control. The CE set will work for a straight B conversion but it was not designed to do what I doing with the flaps. More madness to come! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Moving forward.................... Using the patterns I made from left wing I've made the cutout in right wing and created the doubler and filler(plug) using .020 styrene sheet. Doubler laid onto inner surface of upper wing half. Filler laid into cutout. The small cutout in the right vertical edge of the filler is the "main" mounting point for the upper and lower wing. Tamiya supplies a screw for this and it has been invaluable in maintaining proper alignment while cutting and fitting. It was the main problem I failed to solve with the Cutting Egde upper wing. I decided to used strips of styrene to shim filler to "near" flush with the upper wing surface. I did this as opposed to making another addition filler (plug) because the thickness of the upper wing and depth to doubler vares from .040 to .060. Too much sanding and filling so I used .020 to .040 thick strips to shim filler. I shimmed along all edges and around opening for wheel well. The interior of the wheel wells will not be point of visual interest as the landing gear will be nearly retracted in the display I have planned. I figured to go ahead and workout the wheel wells to a rough finish as I plan another build and they will be an area to complete. I also added additional doubler material aroung the mounting point to reinforce it. Next up will be completing the Leading Edge Flaps on the main wing. I've still got some "engineering" to do on them. I'm also struggling finding good detail photos showing the flaps down especially the Inboard Flap. TTFN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Barry, your ability to cut and shape styrene so cleanly and accurately is almost unbelievable! I really wish I had your skills buddy. Great work. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miked Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Nice work Barry. I agree with Kevin, your styrene work is surperb. You defintely know your subject. I'm just going to watch and learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 i agrre with the said above, very clean would it be possible to resin cast the plugs to make a conversion set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladder4boy Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Nice work so far Barry.. very clean! It's inspiring to see people go the extra mile to get it right.. that's why i love LSP! As a side note, do you ever attend any of the IPMS shows down there? I was considering coming down to either the regionals or ScottCon at the Museum of Aviation. Thinking the Museum would be worth making the trip even if i don't have anything completed to enter. Would also be a nice "daycation" since i won't be able to play in your wonderful St. Patricks day parade this year.. Can't wait to see more of this! Cheers! Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Thank you all for your kind words. Kevin, It's really just a matter of practice and the patience that comes from “years” of practice! I measure continuously as I'm fitting and I trim in small amounts usually filing or sanding when I have rough fit. I spent an hour or more fitting each plug; the closer the fit the better the bond between the pieces when it comes to fitting plugs. Blackbetty, I’m not sure about making the “plugs” from resin due to the shrinkage as well as the lack of pliability. Experience has taught me; when doing what is referred to in the engineering world as a “dollar & dime” patch especially in styrene it is better to have all the materials the same. This allows the adhesive to react the same on all pieces. You get much better bonding of styrene to styrene that resin to styrene. The plug is much less likely to pop out due to shrinkage or expansion over to time or due to temperature. Jerry, I would love to attend SOMETHING but there always seems to be something more pressing to come up. Just last week I wanted to attend JAXCON but the granddaughter’s gymnastic meet was the something else! Thanks again, Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 I started working the lower wing to eliminate the "bulge". Some judicious sanding forward and aft of the wheel wells and replacing kit gear doors with sheet styrene. I've changed my mind and I'm going to close up the landing gear as opposed to having it being retracted for this build. It will eliminate the work to the wheel wells and make it cleaner fitting doors and speed brake. I'm afraid if I don't I'm going to get bogged down and stall out! Still have to make main gear door and a little fine tuning to get all the pieces to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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