scvrobeson Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) Hey guys. Here's another build thread, this time of the WNW Hansa-Brandenburg W.29 floatplane. Ordered this one when it first came out, but it was delayed till a few days ago, but when it came in, I got a cool autographed picture from the Wingnuts team, including Sir Peter himself! So, first off, some more awesome boxart from Wingnuts. This box is about the same length and width as the J.1 box, but is about twice as tall. And this one is stuffed to the brim with parts, which means this will be a big plane once it's done. Still smaller than the Ju-88 though. Painting started out with Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow, and then the woodgrain stuff was done using Vallejo acrylic Transparent Woodgrain. This stuff is awesome, and I know it looks kind of dark, but it looks close to what they show in the pictures in the instruction book. Here's one of the sidewalls, the cockpit framework attaches on to this. And the sidewall, still with lots of detail parts to be added, and the rigging wires to be added in. A couple more shots, just showing the various other cockpit parts that are in woodgrain. The metal parts, and the other gray parts still need to be painted and weathered, then assembly can begin. I've been test fitting, and it looks like everything should pretty much click together, which is great. Thanks everyone for reading, and all comments and critiques are encouraged. My last thread generated almost no comments, so it would be great if someone would comment on this one. Thanks everyone Edited February 24, 2011 by scvrobeson Bobs Buckles and Javlin1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mschoo Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I've been looking forward to seeing one of these built up since they announced it! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Very nice! This one's been on my "I want it" list since I was a little kid, but not until now did a really good kit of one come out! I look forward to your build. Tim W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Oooh!!! I was hoping someone would start a build on this aircraft; my kit is screaming at me to start it, but I have to, have to, have to finish some other projects first. Must focus.... Can't wait till you get to the decaling phase; that pastel hexagon camo and those HUGE crosses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Oooh!!! I was hoping someone would start a build on this aircraft; my kit is screaming at me to start it, but I have to, have to, have to finish some other projects first. Must focus.... Can't wait till you get to the decaling phase; that pastel hexagon camo and those HUGE crosses! My kit was just screaming too much for me to not start it. I'm still waiting on the MDC instrument decals for my Ju.88, so I had to work on something, so I grabbed the W.29. I can't wait to get to the decaling phase. I did the Eduard D.VII awhile ago, and those decals almost made me go crazy, in 1/48. Can't wait to see how these ones will come out. I'm doing option C from the decal sheet, with the big shield on the fuselage sides. Glad everyone's looking forward to this build, hope I don't disappoint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Very nice! This one's been on my "I want it" list since I was a little kid, but not until now did a really good kit of one come out! I look forward to your build. Tim W. Yeah, it's such a cool plane. Maybe Wingnuts will grace us with a W.12 at some point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 (edited) Painting started out with Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow, and then the woodgrain stuff was done using Vallejo acrylic Transparent Woodgrain. This stuff is awesome, and I know it looks kind of dark, but it looks close to what they show in the pictures in the instruction book. Hey scvrobeson, I have a question about the Vallejo Woodgrain paint. I really like the effect you've achieved here and would like to know a little bit more about your technique and how this specific paint works (yeah, I'm a newbie ). Is the wood rings effect created by the brush strokes? Does a coat of the Desert Yellow under help to enhance this effect? Am I understanding this correctly? Thanks in advance! Anyway, it's a very interesting subject and I'll be following your build for sure . Edited January 30, 2011 by Tomek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hey scvrobeson, I have a question about the Vallejo Woodgrain paint. I really like the effect you've achieved here and would like to know a little bit more about your technique and how this specific paint works (yeah, I'm a newbie ). Is the wood rings effect created by the brush strokes? Does a coat of the Desert Yellow under help to enhance this effect? Am I understanding this correctly? Thanks in advance! Anyway, it's a very interesting subject and I'll be following your build for sure . Hey there. The XF-59 Desert Yellow creates the proper color under the woodgrain, since the kit plastic is gray, it needs to be a tan for the woodgrain to work. The Vallejo Woodgrain is a transparent color, so it picks up on the color underneath it. Then I take a very stiff brush, it's a Tamiya No.2 brush, then putting a little bit of paint on the brush, then brushing in vertical strokes on the kit part, continually going until the proper woodgrain comes up. It should be kind of streaky, but not super streaky, if that makes sense. By continually moving the brush, even once the paint starts to dry, it will move the paint around, and create the different tones and shades that you look for. And with the Vallejo stuff, it's an acrylic, so it's dry within a half hour to 45 minutes, instead of the multiple hours that the oil paints can take to dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hey everybody. Quick update on the Brandenburg, just to show how this thing goes together, test-fitting has begun, and just goes to show how amazingly this kit was designed and engineered. This kit truly was a labor of love for the Wingnuts team. And the instrument panel is done, and the decals are beautiful, and work flawlessly. Just wish I could photograph the detail better, they even include a decal of a map, and you can actually read the map! Here's the new batch of pictures for everyone. Here's the instrument panel. These decals are amazing! And just a few shots to show how the framework looks all taped together, and then placed in the fuselage. Everything pretty much clicks together, huge thumbs-up to Wingnuts for this one, the engineering is just phenomenal And just a shot to show how little can be seen on the inside of the fuselage, sadly most of the interior detail will be lost forever. But it sure was fun to paint and put together. And finally a quick size comparison between the W.29, and it's land-based observation brother, the Junkers J.1, currently being built by my dad. We got each other Wingnuts kits for Christmas. That's it for this update. I know I sound crazy building this, but it's so easy to run out of superlatives for these kits. They really are the new standard for kits, and they've really brought WW1 modeling to light and the forefront fast. More power to them, and maybe that D.VII will come out soon? All comments and critiques are welcomed and of course encouraged. Have at it guys! Bobs Buckles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldTroll Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 If it's not already too late, just a couple hints based on my mistakes... 1. The assembly sequence for the control stick is to glue the PE part to the stick then attach the wheel. I had to pull the wheel off after realizing that the PE has to be in place first. 2. No matter how tempting it may seem, do not attach the float assembly until the very end. Once it is in place (even without glue) it makes the model awkward to handle and increases the chance of damage. How do I know that? Don't ask... Thanks for letting us know about the Vallejo wood grain. I've ordered some from THe War Store and look forward to trying it out on an Albatros fuselage. I have to echo your feelings about the quality and fit of these WNW models - all I have to do now is follow the directions as presented and not get "creative" in my sequencing. Looking forward to more of your build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 If it's not already too late, just a couple hints based on my mistakes... 1. The assembly sequence for the control stick is to glue the PE part to the stick then attach the wheel. I had to pull the wheel off after realizing that the PE has to be in place first. 2. No matter how tempting it may seem, do not attach the float assembly until the very end. Once it is in place (even without glue) it makes the model awkward to handle and increases the chance of damage. How do I know that? Don't ask... Thanks for letting us know about the Vallejo wood grain. I've ordered some from THe War Store and look forward to trying it out on an Albatros fuselage. I have to echo your feelings about the quality and fit of these WNW models - all I have to do now is follow the directions as presented and not get "creative" in my sequencing. Looking forward to more of your build! Thank you very much for chiming in Ron. Luckily, I haven't gotten that far into the build, but I will for sure take all of this stuff into consideration. About the Vallejo stuff, there are two colors that they do, a natural wood and a woodgrain. If you're doing a lighter color, you may want to use the natural wood color, as you can see, the woodgrain is kind of dark. But I think it can be clear-coated with any color you want. And following the instructions I think will be the key here, let's hope I can do that and not get creative and mess up anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 About the Vallejo stuff, there are two colors that they do, a natural wood and a woodgrain. If you're doing a lighter color, you may want to use the natural wood color, as you can see, the woodgrain is kind of dark. But I think it can be clear-coated with any color you want. Thanks for this extra information. I've been thinking about the color of the Woodgrain and wondering about lighter variations. This is very helpful. Got to add it to my shopping list. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Thanks for this extra information. I've been thinking about the color of the Woodgrain and wondering about lighter variations. This is very helpful. Got to add it to my shopping list. Thanks again. Of course. Glad I could help. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. I'm no expert, but I do know some stuff, especially about paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldTroll Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) I discovered a small omission in the instructions. On page 7, step 5, the upper two diagrams: The location of piece A27 (looks like a coat hanger with the hook straightened) is not shown. The bottom corners attach to F11 and F12 for aircraft ACDE and to F12 and F6 for option B. The top corner attaches to brace A6. A27 provides support to the forward edge of piece F13 (see p9, step 7 where A27 can be seen just behind the engine.) I have passed this info on to WNW and it should appear in their errata soon. EDITED CONTENT - this errata is already posted there. Guess I should have checked first - duh! I recommend careful test fitting of the pilot's cowling (F9 or F10) and the gun mount cowling pieces F11/F12 or F6/F12. Mine required some gentle edge paring for a good fit. Edited February 1, 2011 by OldTroll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 I discovered a small omission in the instructions. On page 7, step 5, the upper two diagrams: The location of piece A27 (looks like a coat hanger with the hook straightened) is not shown. The bottom corners attach to F11 and F12 for aircraft ACDE and to F12 and F6 for option B. The top corner attaches to brace A6. A27 provides support to the forward edge of piece F13 (see p9, step 7 where A27 can be seen just behind the engine.) I have passed this info on to WNW and it should appear in their errata soon. EDITED CONTENT - this errata is already posted there. Guess I should have checked first - duh! I recommend careful test fitting of the pilot's cowling (F9 or F10) and the gun mount cowling pieces F11/F12 or F6/F12. Mine required some gentle edge paring for a good fit. Yeah, looks like they will need just a little bit of work to put on there, but that's really no problem. Nothing wrong with a little bit of sanding to fix something. And thanks for the extra info. I was wondering what that piece was for, I went through the instructions a few times, and just never found a use for it, now I've got it, thank you. Thanks for checking in and posting, if you discover anything else, please don't hesitate to post it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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