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Guest Martinnfb

Jerry Rutman's D-13

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Guest Martinnfb

Firs of all THANKS to Jerry Rutman for his understanding and support, and great molds of his conversion set. I hope he's going to get back to the business and fulfill the gaps and mistakes of big a** manufacturers .GO Jerry GO!

 

OK< OK, I know I should not have started a new build if my D9 is still under construction, But I could not help it.I was planning this build for at about 10 years, ever since I noticed the presence of this plane. so a quick trip to Everett tomorow and the truth prevails once again .

 

... in the meanwhile here is the result of 5 hours of work :closedeyes:

 

please feel free to criticize and comment to this topic, so I do not have to feel like total patient :party0023:

 

Cheers

Martin

jerrys002.jpg

jerrys001.jpg

jerrys003.jpg

jerrys004.jpg

Edited by Martinnfb

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Second that! This will be most interesting, so i´ll have a close look at this. Jerry´s parts look fantastic. Should i buy one of his D-13 or D-15 sets? Do they come with decals? Still fighting with myself...

 

Martin, what did you do with the propeller blades in the last picture? Trying to add Zimmerit? :whistle:

 

Thomas

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Second that! This will be most interesting, so i´ll have a close look at this. Jerry´s parts look fantastic. Should i buy one of his D-13 or D-15 sets? Do they come with decals? Still fighting with myself...

 

Martin, what did you do with the propeller blades in the last picture? Trying to add Zimmerit? :whistle:

 

Thomas

 

laugh.giflaugh.giflaugh.gif

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Second that! This will be most interesting, so i´ll have a close look at this. Jerry´s parts look fantastic. Should i buy one of his D-13 or D-15 sets? Do they come with decals? Still fighting with myself...

 

Martin, what did you do with the propeller blades in the last picture? Trying to add Zimmerit? :whistle:

 

Thomas

Eagleeditions has a nice decal sheet in 1/32 for Yellow 10. The stuff on the prop blades was probably to cover the pock marks on my parts, The mold was getting near the end of it's life and I was not going to replace it. There has now been renewed interest in this conversion so I cast a new mold for my prop blades and there are no more pockmarks.

Sorry about this but on my limited budget it was the best that I could do.

I have no conversion for the D-15 but I do have all of the parts that are needed to make one.

Looking good so far. I love the look of yellow 10 and can't wait to see this one done.

J

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Guest Martinnfb

Guys, Thanks for the input.

 

Thomas, as Jerry already mentioned the decal sheet comes from EagleCals "Yellow 10 and the friends". I am also planning to build The D-15 prototype , based on Jerry's parts for Ta 152C, so we shall see.:) ,,, the Zimmerit is a must ..=> safety first !!! :)

 

Jerry, no need to be sorry, the parts are decent and I am very happy to work whit them. A few bubbles is not going to compromise otherwise top-notch quality of your product. Plus i am fully aware of the fact that this was the last batch . For now, I hope :)

Yeah, Yellow 10 there are 3 ways how to look at the camouflage, J.Crandall, Janecek-Poruba (JaPo) and me. :party0023:

 

Tudor, we will definitely do that after You will finish your KingTiger ...There ! :)

 

Not much was done today except some research in the field.. :m0152:

 

meandd13.jpg

Edited by Martinnfb

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... The stuff on the prop blades was probably to cover the pock marks on my parts, The mold was getting near the end of it's life and I was not going to replace it. There has now been renewed interest in this conversion so I cast a new mold for my prop blades and there are no more pockmarks.

Sorry about this but on my limited budget it was the best that I could do. ...

J

Jerry, mein Kamerad, i hope you have got me just kidding, don´t you? The picture has been to inviting to make a joke on this... ;)

Your reputation amongst your friends here is proof of your craftmanship and the high quality of your resin parts.

 

Yours truly,

 

Thomas

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Jerry, mein Kamerad, i hope you have got me just kidding, don´t you? The picture has been to inviting to make a joke on this... ;)

Your reputation amongst your friends here is proof of your craftmanship and the high quality of your resin parts.

 

Yours truly,

 

Thomas

Ya gut.Ich verstehe und ist problem-los.I just wanted to be clear.

J

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Guys, Thanks for the input.

 

Thomas, as Jerry already mentioned the decal sheet comes from EagleCals "Yellow 10 and the friends". I am also planning to build The D-15 prototype , based on Jerry's parts for Ta 152C, so we shall see.:) ,,, the Zimmerit is a must ..=> safety first !!! :)

 

Jerry, no need to be sorry, the parts are decent and I am very happy to work whit them. A few bubbles is not going to compromise otherwise top-notch quality of your product. Plus i am fully aware of the fact that this was the last batch . For now, I hope :)

Yeah, Yellow 10 there are 3 ways how to look at the camouflage, J.Crandall, Janecek-Poruba (JaPo) and me. :party0023:

 

Tudor, we will definitely do that after You will finish your KingTiger ...There ! :)

 

Not much was done today except some research in the field.. :m0152:

 

meandd13.jpg

 

Just want to make sure that you know that this plane that you stand in front of was painted by Jerry Crandal himself!

J

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Hi Martinnfb,

I'm electrified up to my hairs. This is one of my future projects so I will be a strong follower of your progress.

But there is a question left. The D-13 in the museum carries a "normal" Dora-radiator. Do someone know if this is the original item. I've heard originally they mounted something like the TA-152-H radiator for the Jumo 213-F. Does everyone know the truth?

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Hi Martinnfb,

I'm electrified up to my hairs. This is one of my future projects so I will be a strong follower of your progress.

But there is a question left. The D-13 in the museum carries a "normal" Dora-radiator. Do someone know if this is the original item. I've heard originally they mounted something like the TA-152-H radiator for the Jumo 213-F. Does everyone know the truth?

The engine in the D-13 was the Jumo 213E iirc. The bulge in the cowl sides was for the Ta152 style engine bearing arms and the radiator was the standard D series type. The airframe depicted in the museum is one of the most complete restorations anywhere and only needs a mechanical computor that was used to synchronize the guns firing through the prop to be 100% flyable. The engine works and there is a video on youtoob to prove it. Sorry,I don't have the link.You can be sure when using this plane as a ref.

J

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Guest Martinnfb

Gentleman Thanks for the comments. This is going to be a tricky build as I realized when the Tamia's putty peeled off of my propeller. I do not have much experience with resin. So your help and comments are most highly appreciated. Thanks again.

 

Hi Jerry .

 

I do know that and Jerry Crandall and his team did a magnificent job. The plane looks just as if it left the factory doors. However a new materials have surfaced so I believe The camouflage is not exactly correct. Also the plane according to museum personel has been completed and it,s now fully flyable. So they say.:)Personalty, I do not think that it matters since it is not going to be flown anyways. But there is an A5 coming in and it is flyable and ready to pleased our hungry eyes.

 

Hi Michael.

 

I have never seen D-11 or 13 with Ta style radiator. Pictures available to me shows D9 style radiators and radiator cowling and flaps .

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... This is going to be a tricky build as I realized when the Tamia's putty peeled off of my propeller. I do not have much experience with resin. So your help and comments are most highly appreciated.

Did you degrease the resin propeller before applying the putty? Maybe some mould release agent remained in the holes you tried to putty? I make use of Tamiya Puty myself, it is one of the best in my eyes. Never had it to come off... :hmmm:

 

Thomas

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