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oil paints for weathering ?


gomer

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I have paynes gray and burnt umber oil colors what are some more colors used for weathering and depending on aircraft color what oil color would be a good starting point for example IJN green on a zero what oil would be used TIA.

 

Jerry

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I tend to use the paynes grey on lighter greys.. such as modern military ghost greys, bottom of japanese aircraft, etc.. gives a nice depth to panel lines without being too black. Burnt umber and Raw umber make a nice oily grimey color for leaks, etc.. Lamp black works well for washes on darker greys and in shadowed areas. For green paint schemes I generally use the umbers for panel lines as well.. black is just too stark. you can also lighten them up with a tiny bit of titanium white if they're too "much". I also like using them in the "dot filter" mode on panels.. lightening green base colors up with yellows and stuff. The nice thing is that it's easily reversable if ya screw up.. where as when i mess up with my airbrush i have to start all over! the only colors i have are paynes grey, lamp black, raw and burnt umber, prussian blue (works great on grey tones as well), cadmium red, and i can't remember which yellow i have, but it's more of a mustard color. you can pretty much mix anything from there! one thing i learned the hard way tho is to buy the best oil paint you can get. The first time i bought the cheap stuff and it tended to seperate and lump up when it was thinned down to a usable wash. I ended up buying the smaller tubes of the "good" stuff and it thins down to almost transparent without any pigment seperation! costs about twice as much, but the small tubes are pretty much a lifetime supply! straight out of the tube it's great for drybrushing as well.. just takes a while to dry.

 

hope that helps!

Jerry

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Ok, It looks like Jerry helped Jerry :goodjob:

 

I agree with Jerry :innocent: , I use a similar approach although lately I've been using a lot of the Tamiya weather pastels also. Try them, they are really nice. They have something like oil in them so they don't rub off easily yet you can remove them with a little rubbing alcohol (Rubbing alcohol on acrylic paint is a bad idea though)

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I second the use of the Tamiya weathering stuff.. it works great and doesn't rub off like pastels do. Use them mostly for rust and exhaust, but you can use the sand and mud colors to fade panel centers as well.. and it doesn't dissapear under a flat coat!

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I have paynes gray and burnt umber oil colors what are some more colors used for weathering and depending on aircraft color what oil color would be a good starting point for example IJN green on a zero what oil would be used TIA.

 

Jerry

Are you talking about using artist's oil paints? Usually we paint our models with enamels or acrylic paints. I am not familiar with how the artists oils would affect the paint you used for applying the colors.

Has anybody on this forum used artists oils for weathering washes? I am curious how it works out.

Does the turpentine and oils we use to thin the oil paints affect the plastic of the models? Does it wash away the underlying paint?

Any comments based on actual experience?

Stephen

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Hello Stephen,

 

I actually belive most people do use those oil paint for weathering.

I myself do thin them with white spirit and it works well on either humbrol or tamiya paint... this said I think it is recommended to coat your model before applying the washes... to me, it depends on the effect your are after indeed (filters, etc...).

Cheers,

 

Loic

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Hello Stephen,

 

I actually belive most people do use those oil paint for weathering.

I myself do thin them with white spirit and it works well on either humbrol or tamiya paint... this said I think it is recommended to coat your model before applying the washes... to me, it depends on the effect your are after indeed (filters, etc...).

Cheers,

 

Loic

Thanks for enlightening me. I was concerned about using artists oils over enamels or acrylics. Obviously I do not weather my models.

Thanks again.

Stephen

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You are welcome Stephen,

 

this said, I DO NOT use turpentine (anymore) but white spirit to thin those oils and I also always had a bit of humbrol paint to it (it does dry better and quicker I think). I only had one experiment with turpentine with a sherman tank a long, long time ago and after HEAVY washes were applyed straight on the humrol base, the later was damaged. With the mixture above, I never had any issues.

Cheers,

 

Loic

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I use oil washes as well, but always over a coat of future, though Tamiya acrylics seem impervious to the thinners unless you get real heavy handed with the mixture. This is an engine on a Williams Brothers C-46 Commando I did a few years back. I don't think I could have done the stains any other way that would have been better than oils.

 

C-462.jpg

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Hello to Everybody.

I always use oil paints (Windsor and Newton) for my washes.

I thin them with Humbrol thinner (same as White Spirit) if I want a semi gloss finish.

For a more mat finish I use lighter fluid (Zippo).

Always put the washes on Gunze paints (most are gloss or semi gloss), or on a coat of gloss varnish.

If your paint is humbrol brand, you better wait a few days before making the wash.

That's how I proceed. There must be other ways, but I don't know them.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Jamme

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i've yet to have a problem with oils over Tamiya or MM acrylics.. and i use paint thinner or turpeniod to thin them down with. Had a bad experience with using them over enamels covered with future tho..seems i missed a spot or two with the clear coat and it ate through, around, and under! all my fault tho.. If i use enamels for the base now, i either coat it with the Testors laquer finishes (gloss or flat, depending on if i'm drybrushing or doing washes) mostly because it drys faster . It seems impervious to both paint thinner and turpenoid. Another option is to use an acrylic wash using the same techniques.. just using acrylic tube paint instead of oil. It's also cheaper.. but a lot more tempermental. And Kevin.. good show on that C-46! I just built that kit (williams bros) last year for the local museum to use to drum up funds for the C-46 Tinker Bell they acquired. That kit is an AWESOME learning tool!! first time i've ever had to use 120 grit sandpaper and bondo on a plastic 1/72 kit! :blink:

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I use oils + Turpenoid with no problems on all paints as long as it has cured well.

I did have a problem with MiG pre-thinned oil washes over enamel. Apparently they use enamel thinner and it crazed my paint.

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