williamj Posted March 5, 2011 Posted March 5, 2011 "there is nothing in that book that could possibly come close to what you are doing here" Hey Wolf..he's right you know...absolutely. Question for you though..where did you get those cool cockpit stencils?? like the caution warnings on the tanks etc.? Did they come with the kit or didja buy em? Have a Spit Mk1 on the to do list and just started digging up bits for it.
Wolf Buddee Posted March 6, 2011 Author Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) "there is nothing in that book that could possibly come close to what you are doing here" Hey Wolf..he's right you know...absolutely. Question for you though..where did you get those cool cockpit stencils?? like the caution warnings on the tanks etc.? Did they come with the kit or didja buy em? Have a Spit Mk1 on the to do list and just started digging up bits for it. Hi Bill! The data stencils were cobbled together from a number of different sources. Most of them came with the BarracudaCast resin interior. Some came from the Waldron Model Products Spitfire interior set, and the rest such as the ones on the oxygen bottles came from a 1/48 US F-4 Phantom data stencil decal sheet. The F-4 data stencil sheet is what I've been using for years to add data stencils to most of my cockpits whether it be 1/48 or 1/32nd. The writing is in most cases unreadable bit it looks like writing and works for soooo many different applications. One example is the "TESTED 1 lb on the windscreen washer fluid reservoir. This was made from individual letters taken from "CANOPY EMERGENCY RELEASE" on the Phantom data stencil sheet. The truly sad part is you can't see it with the seat installed! Go figure eh? Cheers, Wolf Edited March 6, 2011 by Wolf Buddee
Wolf Buddee Posted March 6, 2011 Author Posted March 6, 2011 I think in all fairness to the authors of the book, and I'm pretty sure I know which you're referring to, the object of their book was to show what could be gotten out of the kit essentially built out of the box. I also suspect that there were very tight time constraints imposed on the authors with regards to how long they had to build their models in order to meet publishing deadlines. I'm assuming of course that this applies to the 1st edition as I haven't seen the contents of the second one. All that said, I've still found this book to be useful and inspirational for my own build. I've simply decided to add a lot more detail and I've got as much time as I want to do it. Thank goodness I've been able to acquire some excellent reference material and thanks goes to Dave Pratt and Edgar Brooks for a good portion of that! Thanks so much for your very kind compliments! Cheers, Wolf
nmayhew Posted March 6, 2011 Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) [Deleted for inappropriate comments that we feel break forum rules] Sorry Wolf, This is a great build thread, please keep it going. All of us are following this with intense interest. Cheers Ron Edited March 11, 2011 by LSP_Ron
Wolf Buddee Posted March 11, 2011 Author Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) Another small step forward. I've finally gotten the landing gear finished and dry-fitting has revealed that it all fits within the gear bays as it should. Whew! The brake lines were made from Model Car Garage 1/24th scale ignition wire and the clamps to hold them in place were made from styrene card stock. The clamps are positively tiny and making them was quite a challenge but I finally managed to produce six all the same size and they worked perfectly. The bottom end of the brake line is secured to a styrene "nut" fiitting glued to the back of the brake backing plate. The polished portion of the oleo struts are covered with Bare Metal "chrome" foil. Washes were done with "The Detailer" washes using a 50/50 mix of black and brown, thinned with distilled water and a small drop of dishwashing liquid. The wheels are from Roy Sutherland's BarracudaCast Resin and the covers are from the kit. The covers had small dimples around their circumference to represent fasteners but I used the dimples as alignment reference and added the smallest photo-etch slotted screw heads I could find, again from Model Car Garage. They were held in place by small drops of acrylic clear flat paint and then permanently affixed with a final spray of flat clear coat. The creep marks were added from scrap Microscale decal material but they started to break up badly as soon as I added the Micro-sol. I kept shovin' them back together so they don't look quite as uniform as I would have liked but I'm callin' it wear and tear, LOL. The tires themselves have a lot more brown and grey tones to them but for some reason they don't show it well in the photos. I'm also happy to report that after having cut apart the tailwheel assembly, I've managed to get it to castor nicely. I think it'll add a little visual interest to the finished model. The next step will be to scratch-build the actuators and linkage for the shutters for the underwing radiator housings and then I'll be back to the engine! Comments and critique always welcome! Cheers, Wolf Edited March 11, 2011 by Wolf Buddee geedubelyer and Model_Monkey 2
LSP_Kevin Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Jeepers. Amazing stuff Wolf. Your painting is some of the best I've ever seen, and really brings the subject to life, without resorting to heavily stylised approaches. Jealous. Kev
nmayhew Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 hi Wolf, As Kev said, jealous! Fantastic work question: what are the red tabs / tags that straddle the wheel cover on to the tire itself? are these the creep marks you refer to - i wasn't sure what that meant. thanks as ever for sharing your inspirational work. Nick
LSP_Kevin Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 question: what are the red tabs / tags that straddle the wheel cover on to the tire itself? are these the creep marks you refer to - i wasn't sure what that meant. They are indeed creep marks. Mechanics use them to check if the tyre has rotated at all. Kev
nmayhew Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 They are indeed creep marks. Mechanics use them to check if the tyre has rotated at all. Kev
automaton Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Jeepers. Amazing stuff Wolf. Your painting is some of the best I've ever seen, and really brings the subject to life, without resorting to heavily stylised approaches. Jealous. Kev I'll second that, Wolf, it doesn't get much better than this. And I'd say the creep marks are at least as uniform as the 1:1 marks were. This one will be worth the wait. Regards; Automaton
JRutman Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 I've said it before and I'll say it again "aye carumba"!! J
brewer Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Absolutely outstanding work! How do you go about weathering the tires? I can never get an effect I'm happy with no matter what I do with airbrushing, drybrushing, washes, or anything. What's your secret?
JamesHatch Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Oh Lord...what AMAZING work! That u/c is sweet. I wish I could do stuff like that
Roy Sutherland Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) wow - the show just goes on and on i am soooo pleased i did not shell out my hard earned for a book by a certain figure in the industry on how to build this bird - there is nothing in that book that could possibly come close to what you are doing here a privilege to have you here Wolf Hi Nicolas, I'm not sure that you have ever even LOOKED at the book. In my HF VII conversion article in the ADH book by Brett Green, I not only added a lot of detail to the cockpit (such as wiring and hydraulic plumbing), including scratchbuilding a new throttle, stick, compass and retract quadrant that became masters for resin parts, I also did many hours of research into the differences found in the pressurized HF VII cockpit, and scratchbuilt an all new rear pressure bulkhead, canopy locking rails, adding canopy pressurizing lines to the cockpit sidewalls and a repositioned and redesigned compass mount. I scratchbuilt a new seat backpad and documented it all in clear photographs. Your comments seem to be saying that my build was rushed and out of the box. While it was built to a tight time deadline, the many very late nights I put into all aspects of this build were done to make sure that no corners were cut. I invite you to sit down and take another look at this book. It has sold extremely well, and has gone into a second edition with additional material added. I am proud of the work, and feel that Brett Green, Marcus Nicholls, Chris Wauchop, and I all did our best to bring a book that is both helpful and informative. Happy modelling. Roy Sutherland Edited March 11, 2011 by Roy Sutherland
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