richdlc Posted September 18, 2012 Posted September 18, 2012 I already told ya that, LOL! Especially when you consider that there weren't too many flush rivets on a B-17. The Archer rivets would add a lot of detail to your build with very little extra work. I'm tellin ya, get 'em! Cheers, Wolf haha! Done and DONE - should be arriving in a week or so, can't wait quick question wolf - how do you secure them? I know they are decals, so on your build do you secure them with a coat of varnish or something before you paint the part in question?
Guest Ta152H1 Posted September 18, 2012 Posted September 18, 2012 haha! Done and DONE - should be arriving in a week or so, can't wait quick question wolf - how do you secure them? I know they are decals, so on your build do you secure them with a coat of varnish or something before you paint the part in question? Rich. on the spar of my Dora (see post 676) I've "secured" and blended them in with gray primer! HTH Lou
Wolf Buddee Posted September 18, 2012 Author Posted September 18, 2012 haha! Done and DONE - should be arriving in a week or so, can't wait quick question wolf - how do you secure them? I know they are decals, so on your build do you secure them with a coat of varnish or something before you paint the part in question? You really don't need anything to secure them other than the carrier film that holds them together. I use the ol' Micro Sol to settle the carrier film down and when dry I simply paint over 'em. They are a little delicate until you paint over them but I've never covered them with a primer or anything beforehand. Good luck with them, I'm confident you're really going to like 'em. Cheers, Wolf
fightnjoe Posted September 19, 2012 Posted September 19, 2012 Newbe here but I've got to say this is one of the best WIP threads I have seen in my ten years on internet forums. The incredible amount of detail, the outstanding painting, the just right weathering. Absolutely stunning all the way through. Took me two days to read through and try to digest the information. Joe
DougN Posted September 19, 2012 Posted September 19, 2012 I used the Archer rivets on the exterior of my F4B-4 to replace the kit rivets that got sanded away. I did find that they tended to pull up if you handled them after they were dry (hard not to do when they are all over the fuselage), so I shot a coat of primer over them and they were great. Doug
Incaroad Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) Far to long without an update... What beautiful work you are doing on such an exquisite aircraft. Now if Tamiya will give us a Mk XIVc and you tackle THAT!!! Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Edited October 4, 2012 by Incaroad
Wolf Buddee Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Far to long without an update... What beautiful work you are doing on such an exquisite aircraft. Now if Tamiya will give us a Mk XIVc and you tackle THAT!!! Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Thanks Larry, I've been waiting for some information on some of the plumbing on the Merlin. To be honest, I think I'm being a little too crazy with it now but having come this far I might as well get it as right as I can. I had a deadline too but that's out the window now as well. Hopefully I'll have what I need soon and I can "git 'er dun"! Any chance you know where the tachometer cable connects to after it leaves the cylinder head? Thought I had it figured out but apparently not! Cheers, Wolf
Dambusters2012 Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 Hi Wolf .... hope all is OK at your end .... been some time since you posted any progress. Sometimes difficult to keep the motivation at the level of detail and work you are doing on your Spit'?? Frankly don't know how you have the patience!! All the best. Simon
Guest Peterpools Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 Wolf Waiting for the next update to feed my hunger for the build! Quick question on using the Detailer Washes. I booked marked and noted your recommendations and instructions but am unsure if you let the wash dry before removing the excess or do it right away? I have a few details I want to use them on my BBD Mustang and at this stage of the game, it's too easy to mess up. Thanks Peter
Guest KingK_series Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) One last pic of the starboard heating duct. The duct has been painted and weathered and I've removed the radiator housing flap to show the duct in place. Nothing's been glued yet, everything's just drop fitted in to place so the duct positioning will be tweaked slightly. I was worried about the Archer Fine Transfer rivet decals being too big but in the end I was worried about nothin' as they look awesome under a coat of paint. They're visible enough to show they're there but not overly conspicuous so I'm very happy with the end result. I definitely give 'em a 10 out of 10 for what it's worth. The weathering was done using the Pro-Modeler Dark Dirt wash. It's the first time I've used this stuff and I really like it. Now it's time to get back to the bench and get the other side done. I'd like to acknowledge and thank two gentlemen for helping with this little detail. Edgar Brooks, thank-you for the drawings, they helped immensely and Derek Pennington, thank-you for the photo of the actual duct. Both are very much appreciated! Cheers, Wolf Love the paint work on your build - just looking at this though - it's one of the faults of the Tamiya Spit that the rad cores are not deep enough - not least so the heater ducting can pass into the wing take a look at this pic of an unrestored Spit - where the ducting at the rear of the rad follows only above the rad, leaving the sides open into the wing structure. You then see the ducts passing into the wing. Edited October 21, 2012 by KingK_series
Wolf Buddee Posted October 23, 2012 Author Posted October 23, 2012 Hi Wolf .... hope all is OK at your end .... been some time since you posted any progress. Sometimes difficult to keep the motivation at the level of detail and work you are doing on your Spit'?? Frankly don't know how you have the patience!! All the best. Simon Thanks Simon, all is well here in wet and windy land! I've been waiting for some specific info on plumbing for the Merlin and while some of the questions I've had have been answered, some have not and I suspect that the info I've been wating for may not be forthcoming as offered. In the meantime I've been helping a young co-worker paint a car model he's been working on. Getting the Big Spit done is becoming something of a priority now as a couple of other kits in the stash are calling me, rather loudly I might add. Hopefully I'll have something to post soon. You wouldn't have an unrestored 1:1 Mk IX handy would you? LOL!!! Cheers, Wolf
Wolf Buddee Posted October 23, 2012 Author Posted October 23, 2012 Wolf Waiting for the next update to feed my hunger for the build! Quick question on using the Detailer Washes. I booked marked and noted your recommendations and instructions but am unsure if you let the wash dry before removing the excess or do it right away? I have a few details I want to use them on my BBD Mustang and at this stage of the game, it's too easy to mess up. Thanks Peter Hi Peter, the Detailer washes are pretty tough to mess up on as they're water soluable and clean up relatively easily. I do wait for them to dry before removing the excess and a quick pass with a hair dryer usually speeds the process up quickly enough. Just make sure to add a bit of dish washing liquid to the mix and you'll be good to go. Experimentation on a couple of spare parts will help you determine what works best for you. Let me know how you make out. Cheers, Wolf
Dragon Posted October 23, 2012 Posted October 23, 2012 Hello Wolf, I want to thank you for the tip on using dish washing soap and distilled water with the Detailer washes. What a difference this makes! I was never happy with the results I got previously with using the Detailer wash by itself. I used your mixture on my current build, and finally I've gotten ther look I've been after. Thanks again! Mike
Wolf Buddee Posted October 23, 2012 Author Posted October 23, 2012 Love the paint work on your build - just looking at this though - it's one of the faults of the Tamiya Spit that the rad cores are not deep enough - not least so the heater ducting can pass into the wing take a look at this pic of an unrestored Spit - where the ducting at the rear of the rad follows only above the rad, leaving the sides open into the wing structure. You then see the ducts passing into the wing. Hey KingK, to be honest it could quite possibly be a combination of my scratch-built duct being slightly oversized and the Tamiya rad trough could be a bit shallow but it's not really noticeable once the plane is wheel side down. In fact it's almost impossible to see the gun heating ducts without a light. Glad you like it though. One thing to note from your pic, it looks like the set up used on a Mk V or earlier airframe. Cheers, Wolf
Wolf Buddee Posted October 23, 2012 Author Posted October 23, 2012 Hello Wolf, I want to thank you for the tip on using dish washing soap and distilled water with the Detailer washes. What a difference this makes! I was never happy with the results I got previously with using the Detailer wash by itself. I used your mixture on my current build, and finally I've gotten ther look I've been after. Thanks again! Mike Mike, no problem, no secrets here! I can't remember who told me about the concoction but it's worked great for me. Fool proof is my moto! Trust me! Cheers, Wolf
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