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Hawker Hurricane 11c 1:24


Ripaman

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Yeah, if I could find a small amount like that, I'd try it too.

 

I'm doubting that you'll be able to get by without a pressure pot(think it'll show little bubbles), but I've been wrong before. :P If you end up having to use a pressure pot, an inexpensive one intended for use with spray guns will do the job. I bought a cheap one a few years ago at Harbor Freight, and it's served me well. About 30-40 psi makes regular resin bubble-free. As I said, I don't have experience with the Smooth On resin, but I'd guess about the same psi for it.

 

A pressure pot of this type can also serve double duty for degassing resin by hooking a vacuum pump made for evacuating automotive air conditioning systems to it. This process prevents bubbles in the mold which can cause tiny "spheres" to mysteriously be molded near or on small details in parts that you pressure-cast.

 

I'll be interested to see the results of your trial run, good luck!

 

Regards;

 

Automaton

 

He had a pressure pot but that was around $600 dollars which I thought was abit to much, so I will try Harbour Freight

 

Regards

Richard

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  • 1 month later...

Just a small update, been very busy at work.

I am going to try making one side out of clear resin soon, so I bought another Trump Hurricane so that I could use one side panel to make my moulds so that if I did something wrong I would not destroy what I had done.

 

While I have waited for this kit to come I started making some very small parts which will be seen though the clear resin.

 

 

Started by making the lever, connecting rod and linkage which opens the radiator flap.

IMG_5053.jpg

IMG_5045.jpg

IMG_5046.jpg

 

Then made the thermostatic relief valve with the brackets to hold it in place.

IMG_5050.jpg

 

When the above was done I built the Hydraulic reservoir and hand pump

IMG_5048.jpg

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Also the Hydraulic oil filter and non-return valves which will go in front of the reservoir and last the Hydraulic automatic cut out valve which controls the hydraulic pressure.

IMG_5052.jpg

 

Thats it for now

 

Richard

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Bonkerz!

How the hell did you do that relief valve?

Looks like the shrinking machine has been out again!

BTW sort your life out mate, modelling first, work second! :evil_laugh:

 

Cool idea about the resin fuse to show of your internals.

 

Phil :thumbsup:

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Bonkerz!

How the hell did you do that relief valve?

Looks like the shrinking machine has been out again!

BTW sort your life out mate, modelling first, work second! :evil_laugh:

 

Cool idea about the resin fuse to show of your internals.

 

Phil :thumbsup:

 

Hi Phil,

Made the relief valve out of two pieces alumium tube, machined the ends then took a piece of brass tube which slid over the aluminum tube to look like the nut which joined it together, made the brackets out of .005" plastic card and then added .010" brass rod, it took a long time, I think it will look not to bad once I paint it black.

 

Best regards

Richard ( Bonkerzzz)

Edited by Ripaman
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Mighty fine! Those hydraulic valves are a knockout.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Hi mark, I keep watching your build and you keep doing knockout stuff as well, thanks again for looking in.

 

Regards

Richard

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I have been playing about with the coolant piping and I did not like my first attempt, so I cut down the two cones which went into the top of the Radiator so they looked more to scale, then changed the piping to suit, also added the by-pass between the thermostat and the return pipe. I think this will do now. I drilled out the holes were the rods connected to the Radiator flap and glued some rod to the parts which came with the kit and still have to cut to size and join to the linkage which I have positioned.

 

IMG_5054.jpg

 

IMG_5055.jpg

 

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Got to clean up the piping ready for painting, which will be cooper colour.

 

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Now I have made the elevator lever, elevator lever stop mounted to the tube, bracket and rudder cable fairleads then made the aileron cable drum.

 

IMG_5058.jpg

 

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I made it so that it does go back and forth :rofl:

 

IMG_5062.jpg

 

IMG_5063.jpg

 

That's it for now folks.

 

Regards

Richard or Bonkerzzzs as per Phil

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Smokin!

Something you might like to try Richard as regards copper piping.

If you want the fresh bright copper look fine, just paint them copper.

On my Hurricane I painted the pipe a mid brown (Dark Earth actually) and then dry-brushed with Humbrol copper.

Depending on how much dry-brushing you use you can vary the pipe colour from slightly oxidised to a well used and oxidised look.

 

Phil :speak_cool:

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IMG_5061.jpg

I made it so that it does go back and forth

IMG_5062.jpg

 

Now you're just toying with us. Super execution. Did you use a chopper, or something, to do your cuts for this item? You've got a LOT of parallel work in this thing.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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Now you're just toying with us. Super execution. Did you use a chopper, or something, to do your cuts for this item? You've got a LOT of parallel work in this thing.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Hi Mark, I glued the lever arms to a small piece of brass tube, then glued the lever stops in place to the plastic rod, this is why it can turn, I won't be making the elevators go up and down :evil_laugh:

 

I have a chopper but the whole thing is 1/2" so I cut with a knife and filed it to shape.

 

Regards

Richard

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

I bought 470 drawings from Warbirds restoration and received them last week, and got what I was looking for, all the details and dimension drawings on virtually everything I wanted, so I have made the connecting rods from control stick to elevator bracket and the connecting rod to the aileron cable drum. Also started on the angle frame work to hold the TR1113 radio, IFF box and other stuff.

 

IMG_5067.jpg

 

IMG_5068.jpg

 

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IMG_5070.jpg

 

IMG_5069.jpg

 

Just a picture of what will go on the angle trays for the radio's.

 

IMG_5066.jpg

 

Regards

Richard

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Smokin!

Something you might like to try Richard as regards copper piping.

If you want the fresh bright copper look fine, just paint them copper.

On my Hurricane I painted the pipe a mid brown (Dark Earth actually) and then dry-brushed with Humbrol copper.

Depending on how much dry-brushing you use you can vary the pipe colour from slightly oxidised to a well used and oxidised look.

 

Phil :speak_cool:

 

Hi Phil have started painting the piping using your suggestion above, tried it first on a piece of scrap and it really looks good, once I finish I will post some pics.

Thanks

Richard

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