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Bf109 E-4/B "Yellow 6" Oblt. Otto Hintze 3./ Erpr.Gr210 1940


nmayhew

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  • 3 weeks later...

hi

 

first update this year tumble.gif and only really a small one i'm afraid

 

been busy with "stuff" and (finally) finsihing my Dora

 

anyways....

 

a bit of weathering here and there

 

massively overdone i know, but i will tone it down a bit with a wet brush and maybe some lighter pastels

either way it's pretty easy to remove

 

IMG_9724.jpg

 

IMG_9725.jpg

 

and...

 

IMG_9728.jpg

 

the reason for the slow progress is this...yes, it is indeed "rivetting stuff" - NOT! BANGHEAD2.jpg

 

IMG_9731.jpg

 

i also re-worked the underside fuselage join as i had made way too many rivets first time round, and put them where they really weren't meant to be...

 

IMG_9729.jpg

 

i have now finished one and a half wing top sides, and have the whole underside to do, but after that i can actually get back to some "proper" modelling! wink.gif

 

cheers for now

 

Nick

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thank you Jerry - it does seem slow going at the moment doesn't it?!

 

anyway, some more progress...

 

wheel wells:

we all know that Eduard's PE is a a bit of a disaster here as it simply does not fit the compound curve of the well, so i decided to copy someone here on LSP (was it Jeroen? i forget, sorry!) in using foil to simulate the canvas covering, and then burnish it a little to get the cloth effect

here is what we started with

 

IMG_9796.jpg

 

and after gluing a couple of pieces of regular kitchen foil together to get the required thickness, this is as far as i got!

 

IMG_9802.jpg

 

and then i gave up!

 

i just could not get it to work!

 

maybe with lead foil it would have been better as that "stretches" a bit, but i can see why Eduard struggled here

 

so...i applied a thickish layer of liquid putty and will work on detailing that later

 

IMG_9804.jpg

 

i did however get to add the spark plug wiring to the engine, and here is where my pre-drilled holes made work so much easier

first wires in...

 

IMG_9807.jpg

 

and a whole row (each wire was dipped in thick CA glue then simply plonked in the hole

 

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i then bent them into place just touching the tube above and dabbed on a small blob of CA glue for each wire

 

here is what it looked like

 

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and from another angle

 

IMG_9816.jpg

 

it looks very fiddly but was in fact extremely easy (as opposed to the wheel wells, which i THOUGHT would be easy, but was in fact too difficult for me!)

 

thanks for looking

 

Nick

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hi

 

so after doing the wiring bit along both sides, i decided to fit the engine

 

rather than attach the bracing structure to the engine and then inster, i did it the other way round, and even then it was a little tricky to get the engine block to sit square

 

IMG_9817.jpg

 

the braces had a dark wash put on them to highlight detail etc - i will parobably add to this late

 

IMG_9819.jpg

 

this piece of plastic (square) rod had to be inserted as the engine kept shuffling over to one side; i snipped it and will paint it a dark colour, and hopefully it will be obscured by an exhaust stack!

 

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i also added the small support rods - i used the kit parts rather than brassin ones as they seemed to fot a bit better; i just thinned the ends so they would fit in the interlocking joint bit

 

IMG_9823.jpg

 

i also used the kit part for the long pipe that runs up the side of the engine here:

 

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the resin one was pretty much the same but just too much of a PITA to clean up etc for minimal diffference in detail; i might yet rip this out and use a lead wire insert instead, i am not sure

the brassin set does provide nice PE clips to attach the pipe to the brace, and i will see if i can get these to fit later (i should have attacfhed them to the pipe before i fit the pipe to the engine, but hey ho)

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right back to the wheel wells!

 

i used the rivet tool to punch 2 lines of hles simulating not rivets but the holes through which a thread is passed to attach the canvas to the well itself

 

and then to simulate the zipper i added 0.3mm lead wire and then crimped it a bit with fine tweezers

 

here are some shots in sequence:

 

tape used to hold in place, then dab thin CA glue

 

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and finally a piece around the arch will be snipped clean at the edges

 

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what do we think??

 

:)

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Nice work on those wheel well inserts! Great idea I will copy on my next 109! Looks like you're getting close to painting the airframe now, so you're on the home stretch!

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

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Nice work on those wheel well inserts! Great idea I will copy on my next 109! Looks like you're getting close to painting the airframe now, so you're on the home stretch!

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

 

no worries - my rates for copying techniques are pretty reasonable i think!!

 

rolleyes.gif

 

as to painting, that's a way off yet!

still rivetting lower wing (ugghhh), and now on a quest with Mattlow to find out what the back of the spinner back plate looks like

having re-read that "quest" bit, it sounds a bit lord of the Rings-ish doesn't it? well, i can assure you that i am not wearing a cape traipsing across Middle Earth, but you know what i mean!

laugh.giflaugh.giflaugh.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok some progress finallywith the plumbing and wiring which i'll show in a bit

 

it has been an uphill struggle to work out exactly where stuffgoes into the spinner back plate, and also getting an accurate back plateitself; in the end this was fudges, as i could not hollow out the plate as itis in real life

 

here is a diagram showing some of the front plumbing and an indication that the back plate is actually "hollowed out"

 

IMG_9851.jpg

 

my fudge is to use the PE piece which is meant for the front of the plate to at least add some detail in this area, even if it should actually be recessed

 

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i really think that if you are going to go to all the trouble of detailing the engine etc then Eduard or another A/M company should produce a correct spinner; i cannot believe this has not been done before, or that i am the first one to realise this fairly serious shortcoming! BANGHEAD2.jpg

 

anyway, start of some plumbing, pics show the rough order in which i built it up using lead wire of various gauges and the odd bit of plastic from spares box (never throw away any odd shaped bits from your models - you WILL find a use for them wink.gif)

 

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i wasn't happy with the line coming diagonally down the side of the engine, so snipped out the kit part, and glued the remaining bit to the engine bearer

 

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and here is the section of lead wire and the tiny PE brackets supplied in the Brassin engine set - they are tiny, but luckily fitted round the gauge of wire - JUST!

 

IMG_9918.jpg

 

more in a minute...

 

 

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my first attempt was to insert the lead wire, then thread the PE brackets on, then try to clip them on the bearer

 

IMG_9924.jpg

 

this did not work and resulted in much swearing!!!BANGHEAD2.jpg

 

next i glued the brackets to the bearer first, and lined them up by Mk.I eyeball so that i could thread the wire through - i thought this would be impossible but to my surprise, it worked

 

IMG_9926.jpg

 

added more plumbing - the starboard side has much more going on than port, and it is amazing when you look closely at pictures just how much more there is to add

the Brassin set is merely a base from which to start, and is in no way a complete work in this regard (should it be for the money??)

 

IMG_9990.jpg

 

this is as far as i could work out what the front should look like (i drilled out the stubbs on the oil reservoir to insert the wire btw -quite fiddly but not too difficult)

 

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a shot of the other side...not so much here

 

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and finally some more stuff to the rear of the starboard side

 

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that's it for the moment

 

sorry the progress has been SOOO slow!

 

cheers

 

nick

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Nick,

 

this is maybe the most detailed tutorial how to install and wire a DB engine! I really enjoy your step by step pictures, this built is most interesting. But most of it i really envy you for being this calm! All those tiny parts, all these detail painting, the brackets to fix the line, attaching parts just to take them off later to improve them...

 

Most magnificent, Nick! :wow:

 

This 109 will be a piece of art when done! Awesome!!

 

Thomas

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