Jump to content

1/24 Hurricane I, 32 Sqdn Biggin Hill/Hawkinge


Recommended Posts

Looks good to me Phil. I have been testing out a combination of Testor's Dullcote mixed with their semi-gloss and it gives a dull satin that can be polished with a soft cloth to a subtle sheen. I think it looks a bit better than dead flat.

 

Great work, btw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Brian and Loic for your kind words.

Matt, I think you are right about the final coat and I will probably doing a similar thing to you.

The main problem with the Humbrol matt finish is that its just too matt for masks to adhere to well and would take a ton of MM gloss to get a surface for any decals hence

out with the sanders to prep the surface for the next stage.

 

I have been getting on with the Ad Astra masks. As has been mentioned I initially thought the sheets were blank until I looked under the magnifyer.

Here's the "GZ" codes:

 

P1172722.jpg

 

Here's a couple of my other sheets which have been weeded by removing all the border material to see where you are.

I have marked up the roundels with indelible pen to help to re-allign the internal rings when they need to be put back on.

A good tip from Ad Astra there.

They also provide additional pieces to place on top of the mask to transfer them onto the model.

It works really well and once in place these can be returned to the sheet.

 

P1172721.jpg

 

Today was white paint day so I positioned the fuse roundels and the fin flash masks.

I cut paper roundels of the same size and paper squares the same size as the codes to help me get things in the right place for the profile.

I marked the postion of the templates allowing a 3mm gap for the mask border:

 

P1172723.jpg

P1172725.jpg

 

They sit really well and were pretty easy to apply. I have added some tape as an extra border for the post it notes.

 

Used MM satin white. It dries really quickly but I'm still going to leave it 24hrs before doing the next colour yellow.

I didn't seal the edges with clear MM varnish as I normally would.

I was interested in seeing if its needed with these masks so we will wait to see the final result.

Bit like "going commando" in the summer! :evil_laugh:

 

P1172728.jpg

 

I've oversprayed the white on the roundels to act as a good base for the yellow outer ring.

 

More gripping stuff tomorrow!

 

Phil

Edited by PhilB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Phil,

Very nice paint job, :wow: love what you are doing with the Hurri. Were did you buy those masked?

Did you use masked for your 11c build?

 

Richard

I will try and take a macro of the engine frame brackets soon as you asked

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Phil,

Very nice paint job, :wow: love what you are doing with the Hurri. Were did you buy those masked?

Did you use masked for your 11c build?

 

Thanks Andy and Loic for looking in.

Richard, I used Techmod decals for the IIc as there weren't any decent masks available at that time.

These one's are from Ad Astra Masks. Have a look in the Traders and Vendors threads and you'll find their website. They do custom jobs for a very reasonable price. They also do a 1/24 scheme which will give you the basic markings and you can then order the custom codes and serials to suit.

 

I had planned to do all my white paint yesterday but as usual I forgot about the Blue Peter flag that was Pete Brothers' personal emblem on his aircraft.

This mask was part of the custom sheet provided by Ad Astra:

 

P1182733.jpg

 

Tomorrow is hopefully going to be "blue" day so it will be finished off then.

 

Today I have mostly been spraying yellow.(Anybody in the UK remember Jesse in his shed from the "Fast Show"?)

Masking roundels can be a bit of a brain teaser especially when these are 4 "ringers".

First I replaced the centre section back on the fuse then removed both the two outer rings (will be yellow and blue)

 

P1182730.jpg

 

The reason I did this instead of just removing the outer ring for the yellow was its far easier to replace a wide piece of mask containing two rings then remove a single for the blue tomorrow than try and replace a thin single ring over the yellow I have done today.( I hope you get my drift!!!)

 

P1182732.jpg

 

The yellow dried pretty quickly so I thought I'd go for the red today as well.

Couldn't get any White Ensign roundel red (been out of stock for some time :BANGHEAD2: )

I used a base Humbrol satin red and tinted it a bit with some khaki to try and tone down the red without it going pink.

This is still drying but hopefully it will look ok.

 

P1182734.jpg

 

I managed to do the centre of the side roundels and the finflash so tomorrow I will mostly be spraying blue .

I DO have White Ensign roundel blue. I thought I would be a smart arse and tint it before it goes on but I think I'll play safe and lighten it a bit once its on to give it a slightly faded look.

 

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent as always Phil! This one is going to be a real beauty. Excellent tip on marking those masks for alignment. That is where I had the most trouble during my build. Live and learn!

 

Cheers,

Don

Edited by WrongWay
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good on ya mate! Ill be watching this to know how to proceed with my Adstra masks when the time comes........

Thank yoo! Yoo'l love em!

 

Aren't 4 ringers, brilliant!!!

 

Wasn't everything just BRILLIANT!!!!

My favourite was "Coughing" Bob Fleming and his mate with tourettes:

 

 

Excellent as always Phil! This one is going to be a real beauty. Excellent tip on marking those masks for alignment. That is where I had the most trouble during my build. Live and learn!

 

Thanks Don, I can't claim rights to the tip though, it was in the Ad Astra masks instructions!

 

Phil

Edited by PhilB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I have mostly been spraying White Ensign Roundel Blue.

First of all I replaced the centre of the Blue Peter flag then removed it leaving the small centre section:

 

P1192738.jpg

 

I then sprayed the blue and removed the mask:

 

P1192744.jpg

There appears to be a tiny amount of shrinkage showing a thin line of white which will be touched up later.

 

Big roundels. Replaced the centre section over the red:

 

P1192737.jpg

 

After:

 

P1192747.jpg

I'm pretty pleased my home made roundel red looks about right to me. It looks spot on in the flesh.

There is a tiny lip due to my spraying which I will sand off in a few days time once the paint has properly hardened off.

 

Side roundels. Replaced the two outer rings then removed the one for the blue.

You need to mask off the outer ring/mask border join as you have broken the seal.

 

P1192740.jpg

 

After:

 

P1192741.jpg

Well it looks ok to me. Again any roughness on the colour joins is paint "lips" which I will sand off to leave a tight demarcation.

 

Fin flash:

 

P1192745.jpg

Again, this will need touching up a little but overall I found these masks really great and much simpler to use than others I've tackled in the past.

 

Next job is to put on the masks for the very large codes.

 

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice results man!

 

Out of curiosity what grit sand paper/sticks do you use for your color sanding? Wet or dry?

 

Just comparing techniques here to see if maybe I can improve on my own........ :D

 

B

Edited by Out2gtcha
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice results man!

 

Out of curiosity what grit sand paper/sticks do you use for your color sanding? Wet or dry?

 

Just comparing techniques here to see if maybe I can improve on my own........ :D

 

B

 

Thanks buddy!

 

I've got a set of the Mastercasters sponge sanders(big ones) here: http://www.mastercasters.co.uk/5.html

They is a bit "fierce" when you first get them but after using them on plastic a few times I generally use the blue for a couple of light passes if the finish is already pretty good.

The white will give you almost gloss. If its a matt coat I want to polish up then its orange-blue-white.

 

I've also got some sanders from an automotive place which are thin foam sheets (about 5mm) in 180 and 200 grit.

They are good for getting them into tight spots. I also cut them into strips to use on curved surfaces.

 

HTH

 

P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I have mostly been painting Medium Sea Grey (Model Master :) ).

They used very large codes on this particular aircraft. I was hoping they reversed them on the stbd side to get them to fit but no, so those very nice chaps at Ad Astra did me some sloping jobbies.

 

Port side:

 

P1202752.jpg

Lost a teeny bit on the tops of the GZ which is probably me spraying too thick and/or pulling the masks too early but its an easy touch up.

 

Starboard sloping jobs:

 

P1202753.jpg

Hmmmm, Nice!

The GZ's were on the same sheet.

One thing that has really impressed me about these masks is that they don't grab onto the model.

Some I have used stick hard straight away.

It took me several goes to get them lined up and it wasn't an issue peeling them off and repositioning.

Once burnished down they do stick very well.

I also have had virtually no bleed at all which is another plus point.

 

Starting to look like a Hurricane now.

 

P1202751.jpg

P1202759.jpg

 

The last job with the masks will be the serials but I'm going to leave them until tomorrow

as the serial on the stb side goes over the "G" so I want to make sure that has dried fully before plonking a mask over it.

 

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...