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Getting ready to use Montex masks for the 1st time...


Mikester

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Almost ready to get the paint on one of my current projects. I'm doing Hasegawa's 1/32 190A-8 as "Black 8" from 11./JG 3 and this will be my first time using a Montex Super Mask set. Any words of wisdom from some of you have used them in the past?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

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Make sure that their flat around the edges.U do not want paint getting under them.And do not press very hard as to making sure in place right.Have not used them.But have used the warpigs types and they go on great.Make sure as well that the surface is clean and smooth as well.U want to use them again and again and u want to make sure there is no dirt or grim on them for reuse.Larry

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Went in trouble masking a canopy with them. The clear parts had been in Future a long time ago, so i am sure that the Future was completely dry. The canopy masks made from black vinyl, did fit like a glove, simply fantastic!

After having sprayed the color on the model was left in the sun to dry. And i think this was the boo-boo i made: the cement on the black vinyl masks bonded firmly with the Future! It was a tough work to get the masks off! What was left on the clear parts was a gooey lump... :BANGHEAD2:

Before getting the model in my bin i had an idea: Goo Gone! I got this stuff from a friend with a friend in the army in Heidelberg who had access to the PX there. My luck! Goo Gone was the only stuff that completely removed the sticky lump from the clear parts without damaging the plastic nor the Gunze paint i had applied!!

So, when masking a futured canopy with Montex don't put it in the warm or the sun to speed drying time! Or have Goo Gone ready...

Thomas

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After having sprayed the color on the model was left in the sun to dry. And i think this was the boo-boo i made: the cement on the black vinyl masks bonded firmly with the Future!

 

I've had this kind of thing happen with ordinary masking tape and a paint job. And the model wasn't even in direct sun, just outside on a hot day. Sounds like neither of us will do that again!

 

Kev

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As said, definately go in light coats. The first mist coat will help seal the edges from bleed and if you go light, it'll keep it from getting ridges. Also, if you go to heavy, sometimes the masks won't want to come off without taking chunks of the newly sprayed paint with it.

 

A trick a full size auto body guy told me one time was to spray a light coat of clear after masking. This seals the edges, so any bleed over is clear coat. This works really well if you're worried about bleed over.... i.e. on compound curved surfaces and surfaces with lots of detail.

 

Chris

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For placement - mix up a soap and water mixture and wet the area where the mask is going to be applied. If you're careful, you can move the mask around like a decal until you get into position. Then burnish it down and wipe off the soap/water mix.

 

This prevents the 'peel and stick' method of aligning the masks and prevents them from being stretched or torn.

 

Jeff

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Try placing strips of paper around the perimeter of the mask square,leaving a minimal amount of adhesive to attach to your build.The Montex masks have good adhesion and it takes just a little to make the mask sit properly.By lining the mask with paper it helps in several ways...first,the paper acts as a barrier for over spray and second,when and if you have to reposition the mask the paper helps you lift the mask easily seeing as you haven't put down the entire adhesive surface on your build.I've yet to have any problem with lifting paint with pulling off a mask this way and repositioning it...and I've never stretched or torn a mask with this method...

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  • 9 years later...

I just used some for the first time in the last few days and I'm pretty happy with the way they came out. It was on a 1/48 Bf109. I just followed the directions on the website. I sprayed the white in the general area of the marking then placed the whole mask on using tape to keep them together and removed the mask where the black goes. I then sprayed the black and when dry put the mask back where the black is and removed the outside part leaving the marking completely covered. Then I went ahead and painted the camo. When I peeled off the masks I had decent looking markings. Pretty easy. Like everyone said, go as easy as possible on the paint to keep it thin. I'll be using them again for sure.

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I've only used Maketar masks (both vinyl and kabuki). I like using the vinyl to line up the kabuki tape(long explanation). Once they are lined up to your satisfaction, like others have said, make sure your paints are thinned properly: Too thick, you're going to have to sand. Too thin, you risk the paint bleeding under the mask. That is why i prefer the kabuki tape masks. And importantly, spray away from the edges of the mask. That should help to prevent paint bleed. And one more thing. It's going to take you way longer than you think. Budget lots of time and don't try to do too much in any one session. Good luck and cheers!

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If your doing a german build dont do the same mistake ive done on my 2 past build. You need to pain the insignias BEFORE the camo.. not doing so has 2 impact, you can see the white from the side. And the mask are meant for that aproch making the square outline of the mask not presisely cut as the other mask so its hard to get a super clean square edges

 

Appart from that, make sure you burnish the edges on the mask before painting,  if you are on a panel line i heave a tendency to cut into the mask with a #11 to make sure no paint decides to ride the panel line. 

 

Bf110

 

Bf109

 

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