Sharkmouth Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Fabulous work indeed! Bookmarked for my build, if I ever get around to it! Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Beautiful! Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 niiiiiiiiiiice engine! i wonder how Eduard's brassin one will compare to yours? not very favourably i imagine - i don't see how it could possibly stack up to what you have shown us! cheers, Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baron von Blutwurst Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 This is looking fantastic Phil. I love the oil staining effect you have achieved. Top Notch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilB Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 I'm gobsmacked by how great that engine looks Phil. I'm contemplating showing the engine on my Matchbox Emil when I get to it, and I hope it comes out half this good. Great inspiration, for sure! Thanks for that Kev, I think the secret is to build it and paint it as crisply as possible, then cover it in crap! Lovely looking engine Phil! Excellent work! Thanks Håkan TOP NOTCH!!Very nice work man. Kevs right, it really is very cool looking and realistic. Merci Mon Ami! Looking better by the minute.Nice work Mr Phil. Thanks Keith. Fabulous work indeed! Bookmarked for my build, if I ever get around to it! Thanks very much. Beautiful! Thanks Matt, remind me to never detail a bloody engine again! niiiiiiiiiiice engine!i wonder how Eduard's brassin one will compare to yours? not very favourably i imagine - i don't see how it could possibly stack up to what you have shown us! Thanks Nick, I hope its a better fit than this one but as always with resin the detail outweighs the grief of fitting it. I managed to get a couple of final jobs done before I masked it up and started painting today. I finally got the pe mg troughs on and painted. Absolute nightmare to fit but they are there. I gave them a coat of pro modeller dark wash and left it as it dries to a nice matt grey. Sorry about the photos but they are on the bench with only my modelling lamp to light them and I couldn't be bothered to recalibrate the artificial light settings on the camera so they are a bit green: I have done a bit of work underneath. I fitted 4 D rings that are used to connect the external fuel tank rack. Mark (dodgem37) kindly identified them from the Malta photo in post #137 on page 10.. I used 1mm plastic strip drilled out. Not sure how long they will last so I'll probably dig out some brass strip and re do them. The radiator leading edges are a bit chewed up as this is where most of the impact would have been together with the oil cooler cowl under the engine. Haven't got a photo of that yet but its nicely dented and bent: This morning I've painted the white wingtips and spinner. I gave the masked windscreen a coat of 66 before the 74/75 goes on and the lower "scoops" have had a coat of alclad aluminium. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 That is a very nice engine, Phil. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilB Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 That is a very nice engine, Phil. Thanks Mark, I have been painting most of the week so here are a few pictures fresh out of the masks so there's touching up to do and removing raised edges on the paint. I'm going to leave it to recover for a few days and might start putting on a few decals soon. Yes its a weird scheme but this had already been dealt with earlier on in the thread. The scheme was done with 74 and 75 both of which were lightened and I used pieces or card raised off the surface to give soft edges to the demarcations: The side "tiger" stipes are 79 mottled with 74. The ghost codes were done using the actual letter from the masks to leave the outline. The P still appeared to have some left on the real pictures so I misted on a bit of white. The actual codes were still on the undersides in the pictures: I've done a few scrapes and scratches using the alclad/maskol method. might be a bit ott but its easier to cover them than do it after paint. The fuse underneath is going to be covered in oil/mud and anything else I can throw at it. Might be an idea for a comparison: I used the kit side cannon bulges to mask off the small area at the front of the fuse as its clean in the real photo and I'll use it again to mask for the oiling session. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 I really like it Phil!!! The comparison to the b & w shot really sells it. Great work interpreting the photo. I can't wait to see more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 I concure completely with the Big Guy! Superb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacewolf Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Really awesome painting Phil, I hope I get that good some day. I think the true test of modeling is if when you alter a pic of the model to old fashioned black and white it looks like a pic of an actual aircraft. Your model beside the pic of the subject looks very, VERY close. Well done and I can't wait to see the weathering and display. Cheers Vaughn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilB Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Thanks guys. Its a bit weird doing a scheme which you think looks strange and unconventional but you have to trust the advice of members who have helped earlier in the thread. When you are working with photos of the actual aircraft you have to trust them and paint what you see and not what you think it might be like or what others are expecting or what is the norm. When you convert the photo to black and white it gives you an idea of how close you are. I used the Warpigs masks on this one and they are very, very good. The only problem I had was with the crosses on the fuse and lower wing. The sheet gives several designs and the one for these would have you place the mask without any internal bits to give the outline of the whole cross. You then spray either black or white and put internal detail back in and spary the second colour. I couldn't work on curves with these so I used an different design which kept the internal centre cross as "bracing" to get them on to the model. Once in place I removed the centre cross with a scalpel and painted. Came out pretty well. The MM enamels are just brilliant. When doing the mottling the first coat was dry in minutes allowing me to get nearly all of it done in less than an hour. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 WOOOOOO HOOOOOO! Looks killer man..........very accurate when making side by side comparisons so the real thing to! Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Wow. In the flesh. Excellent side x side, Phil. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilB Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 Thanks Brian and Mark. I've finished with the decals and sealed it with MM flat after adding just a bit of exhaust staining. I've also done the prop which has been weathered and sealed. I dirtied the boss to match the marks on the real one. I even tried to put the chalk mark on mine using a white pencil. Its upside down in the original photo and all three blades appear to have the word "schtoff" or similar on them: Looks ok I suppose. I didn't use most of the small stencils such as those on the cowling catches as I couldn't see them in the original photos. I used what I could identify as actually being there, though I thought I had better do the wingwalk stuff as I'm sure that would have been present: Got a little bit of silvering on one of the wing decals but I'll cover that with oily bootprints. I've had a go at dirtying up the undersides. I am trying to recreate what I think it may look like after landing on the grass of the airfield. We know it was a very good landing as both aileron counterwieghts are still there so he landed plum on its belly. Looking at it the impact would have been on the radiators and the chin oil cooler cowl. I'm thinking mud, rocks and dust may have left their marks. Apparently the small "vent" between the etc rack lugs is a vent from the lower engine cowl. If that is the case then I may well try and do a big oil streak from that as we know the lower cowl at the rear was full of dumped oil: The whole underside is covered in brownish dust but it doesn't really show up in the photo As a diversion I have been doing these blokes too: Can't see this in any photo but I like him so he may appear near the plane. The one with the lid will have the tailwheel on it. The open ones are under the wings with tarpaulins on top. I'm thinking of using these to anchor the aircraft to the base by using fishing line inside attached to the lower wing under the tarpaulin then down through and under the base for fastening. Its now ready for oil! Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allok Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Looks spot on so far Phil. I'm really looking forward to the end result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts