Bf109K-4, I./KG (J)6, Bohemia, May 1945

[dodgem37]

Thank you for the compliments, gentlemen.

 

'Have you pulled an 'opaque canopy' to work on the framing? Is that pulled using the original canopy part or an inside cast (make sense?)?'

Matt

 

I pulled the opaque canopy because at the time that is the only sheet plastic I had. I had only recently ordered some clear sheet which came in the mail the other day. Further down this post I've loaded a picture of the framing built in the opaque vac and inserted into a clear vac.

 

I pulled an outside wall vac of the original canopy.

 

Since I have 4 of these to make I decided to use the first as a stencil but didn't like the detail so I measured everything and redrew it. I did use the outside edge though and just hard lined it. You can see the original openings are a bit off. I used an oval template to align everything and used the scribing template to redraw the openings.

 

Openings cut out and insert curved a bit.

 

Rivetted with centerline indicated.

 

Taped down in place and penciled area that needs removal.

 

Area that needs removal.

 

Glued in place and trimmed. I was messing around and decided to see if I could make the return to the back of the wheel well opening. It has the drilled holes and drop in the middle. I still need to make the outer door retracting mechanism.

 

Another view. I used a smaller bolt this time around.

 

It's hard to tell by this picture but very little seems to line up. Which I don't understand. But I guess my Mark I eyeball was off when I held the white vac to a light to check the alignments. But no matter. I'll use this one instead and pull a new one if need be.

 

For those interested, the wheel wells to the Hartmann G-14 are complete. I dry assembled the wing area, took a picture, and posted it over there.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

[JRutman]

I know that I already posted this but it's worth repeating. I love that you are adding the interior detail to the canopy as it's rarely done by anyone. Very nicely done buddy! The wheelwells are also fab.(60's lingo,sorry) With your attention to detail,I would love to see what you can do with an open engine compartment! Maybe one of those superb MDC DBs?

This thread has me considering to start working on models again.

J

[dodgem37]

'I know that I already posted this but it's worth repeating. I love that you are adding the interior detail to the canopy as it's rarely done by anyone. Very nicely done buddy! The wheelwells are also fab.(60's lingo,sorry)'

Thank you, Jerry. No need to apologize to me. As far as I'm concerned, we're ALL a product of the '60's!

 

'With your attention to detail, I would love to see what you can do with an open engine compartment! Maybe one of those superb MDC DBs?'

GULP!! I don't know about the DB just yet. I want to get thru all of this stuff (remember, times 2!) before I think about the effort that may be necessary to replicate what's under the hood. But I will certainly hold that thought.

 

'This thread has me considering to start working on models again.'

Do it, Bro! It's all just an experiment.

 

I've put some time into the drop tank area and have a few pictures to show.

 

I wanted to try to replicate the tear-drop shaped base the drop tank anti-sway fittings set on so I dipped .025 rod into some super glue then immediately fixed it with accelorator. It doesn't look terrible. Which, I guess, is the best that one can sometimes ask for.

 

Cleaned up Jerry's bits, punched some .010 discs and bolts, and glued everything together.

 

Removed the molded on part, then the plastic in the weld seam, and smoothed it out with liquid glue. I've yet to sand it.

 

It sets too high. I used some double-sided adhesive film to fasten everything together so I could check the height.

 

Better, and as good as it's going to get, I'm afraid. I removed .5mm from the kit legs. I cut a strip of tape .5mm wide, taped it on, scored each leg, then removed the excess.

 

While I was waiting for the super glue to set up I punched out a disc of HO scale screen. Luckily the largest punch was a close match to the diameter of the turbo opening.

 

I've taken the framing out of the clear vac canopy, delicately cleaned the left over gum residue with some lighter fluid, gave it a good cleaning with alcohol, and dipped it in future. Tomorrow I'll see how it all shakes out.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

[Barry]

Mark,

 

Exceptional detail work; your sway braces look completely functional!

 

Barry

[JRutman]

Drop tanks are looking superlative bubba! I don't know if you want to delve any deeper but the holes in the sides of the ETC rack had the adjusting points for the sway bars. I believe that they were screws?? Could be wrong,it's been a while. The rack fairing was also very thin.

J

[LSP_Kevin]

Excellent work Mark! I really like what you're doing here, and really appreciate that you're taking the time to document it all for us. I'm learning so much.

 

Kev

[dodgem37]

Thank you, gentlemen.

 

Kevin, I've wondered off and on if I've been posting too many photographs of my processes, because there is a LOT of imagery, and, at the same time wondered if I should cut back to just finished products. But, if one person learns something which will make their life easier, then it is worth it. Thank you.

 

Jerry, I've found 2 images of the adjusting condition. I'll investigate building the adjusting condition later on. The Honey Do list grows over the weekend.

You mentioning that the rack fairing is thin got me to thinking. Always trouble.

 

Modified part from a G-4 I was messing around with to turn into one of Marsaille's F-4s. Now that Hasegawa is coming out with an F-4, the kit can now be used for parts.

 

First pull and trimmed. One side of the sheet plastic is matte, the other, gloss. This is the gloss side. Don't ask me why I pulled it gloss side 'down'. I thought it was the other way around until I started vacuuming.

 

Other side. I tried to smooth the openings with some liquid glue but this styrene must be a different concoction than what Evergreen and Hasegawa use because the glue didn't do much of anything.

 

In place.

 

Other side. The part shifted off of center-line a bit off.

 

I'll see if I do a better job pulling and trimming on the second pull now that I have things figured out a little better.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

[JRutman]

You are not posting too many pics at all. No worries about that. I think a lot of guys would agree on this site you never have enough pics for demonstration purposes. The new fairing is eons better imho. Good idea.

J

[big matt]

I agree with Jerry, the more pics the better. That fairing looks great.

[mattlow]

Excellent work on the fairing.

 

If you need any pics/drawings of the 'gubbins' inside drop me a PM.

 

Matt

[mattlow]

Mark

 

Starter for 10, I may have more if need be.

 

 

Note that the rack is attached to fus. by two rods (seen at front and rear here with chains attached) which pass through tabs with holes on the lower fus. Therefore, rack actually stands off from the lower fus. I think the fairing is attached to rack by four bolts (see 2 of them in front of the forward steady arms on the photo) each securing fairing to the small tabs welded onto the tank support/steadying arms.

 

Finally, the central 'rod' with chain in the drawing is, I think, the pin which goes through a ring on the drop tank strap, holding the tank in place. Not 100% on that as the pin must dislodge to allow tank to drop - maybe its a safety which is removed prior to flight? - wrong! see below.

 

Matt

[mattlow]

OK, here's a photo of the tank holding mechanism.

 

 

You can see the ring (f) which attaches to the strap (d) around the tank and fits into the lock (e) - a catch (h) holds it in place until the jettison lever is pulled, acting on lever (g).

 

I think the rod I mentioned in previous post (the central one) goes through the hole at top of assembly (e) to hold it in place. Maybe the whole assembly (tank, strap and lock) was assembled, raised into position and then the rod pushed through to keep it there. I think the tank was more often than not filled once in place (makes sense really).

 

Anyway, at least you've got enough detail to do the whole 'gubbins' now. Look forward to your plasticard interpretation.

 

Matt

[dodgem37]

Most excellent imagery, Matt. Thank you.

 

Forward starboard opening is smaller (probably just a knock-out hole in case the pin becomes stuck) than forward port opening, where the head must exit. Must be a similar condition throughout.

 

Nice fairing to rack bolt fastener detail. I wondered how the fairing was attached. I'll double check my imagery. It's a detail I missed.

 

Pin is telescoped. Thicker aspect of the pin becomes the stop so it doesn't travel so far it can't be reached for removal. Retaining wire has a looped end and slides along the shaft until it reaches the head. Only reason I can come up with to define why wire is so short. A longer wire would be needed to remove the pin if the wire were physically connected to pin.

 

Correctomundo on the central pin going thru center opening of lock box.

 

As for the plasticard interpretation, I'll see what lies I can come up with.

 

Thanks again, Matt. Most excellent imagery.

Sincerely,

Mark

[dodgem37]

Jerry, Big Matt, & Matt,

My apologies for not recognizing and responding to your compliments in the earlier post.

 

Thank you most kindly.

Sincerely,

Mark

[Blackcollar]

That looks fantastic... I'm taking notes.. btw, would you post a pic of your vaccuform gear? I have a mind of making my own soon

 

-Al