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Bf109K-4, I./KG (J)6, Bohemia, May 1945


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This awesome and inspiring work Mark! I'm learning heaps and enjoying every update.

 

DSCN5049.jpg

 

That came out fantastically well! Can you tell me how you managed to flatten the solder?

 

Kev

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I looked into the drop tank and have come up with this. I'll make a few assemblies and compare my effort with the kit condition before I determine if I'll go the cheap route and just modify the kit part.

 

DSCN5064.jpg

I mixed together some of this.

 

DSCN5065.jpg

Plunked it down on the points under consideration on both tanks.

 

DSCN5066.jpg

Came away with these.

 

DSCN5067.jpg

Added some resin.

 

DSCN5072.jpg

And out popped these. My resin is old. The reason for all of the bubbles inside the part. I'll have to buy new resin if I go this route.

There still is a lot to do with these.

 

Additional stuff below in another reply.

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I looked into the drop tank and have come up with this. I'll make a few assemblies and compare my effort with the kit condition before I determine if I'll go the cheap route and just modify the kit part.

 

DSCN5064.jpg

I mixed together some of this.

 

DSCN5065.jpg

Plunked it down on the points under consideration on both tanks.

 

DSCN5066.jpg

Came away with these.

 

DSCN5067.jpg

Added some resin.

 

DSCN5072.jpg

And out popped these. My resin is old. The reason for all of the bubbles inside the part. I'll have to buy new resin if I go this route.

There still is a lot to do with these.

 

Additional stuff below in another reply.

If you like I can send you some of those that I used to include in my drop tank kits. Then all you need to do is pop some circles out of a punch and die set to attach to the tank under the resin?

J

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Kevin:

DSCN5081.jpg

Figured out the length.

 

DSCN5082.jpg

Roll burnished the solder to get the kinks out.

 

DSCN5084.jpg

Removed the kit part, sanded smooth and drilled recieving holes at an angle. My apologies for the poor quality.

 

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Soft to moderate pressure, rolled solder on a soft surface (index card).

 

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Soft to moderate pressure, rolled solder on a moderate surface (cutting board).

 

DSCN5087.jpg

Soft pressure rolled solder on a hard surface (desk surface).

 

DSCN5089.jpg

Rolled solder stretches, I forgot.

 

Completion of the post below.

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DSCN5090.jpg

New piece rolled and glued in place. I forgot it's length.

 

DSCN5091.jpg

Rounding and smoothing it out on a paint brush. Since the paint brush is tapered it's easy to just keep sliding it up the handle

until the solder becomes round. Then all you need do is center the base and maybe burnish the kinks out against the handle.

 

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Needs a little more burnishing at the base to even things out a bit. But I'll do that later.

I'll put it back in the brush and burnish it against the brush.

 

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Close enough for government work.

 

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Other side.

 

Wheel well is next, then it's chores for the day.

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Whew! Last but not least.

 

DSCN5073.jpg

Punched discs, lightly sanded edges at 45 degrees, glued into place then drilled. The flat face of the lightening hole

is actually more narrow than what I protray but I didn't want to chance getting too close for fear of going overboard.

 

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Inside rear corner and back wall.

 

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Outside front corner.

 

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Outside rear corner and back wall.

 

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I don't know what this is doing here, but there must have been a reason I uploaded to the folder.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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I put aside the wheel well and thought I'd put some time into the cockpit defrosting conduit. This will also be done for tha G-14.

 

First mock-up:

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Looks OK from here.

 

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Not terrible from this side either. Too bad it didn't fit the canopy as well as I had hoped.

 

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So I killed this idea.

 

DSCN5102.jpg

And went to this idea. I taped the inside with aluminum tape, used to seal ductwork.

The idea was to liquid cement the parts together instead of using super glue,

but I didn't have enough overlap to the canopy edges and was afraid the liquid glue would wick under the tape and ruin the canopy,

so I trimmed the tape and used super glue to create this mock-up.

I don't know if you know, but superglue doesn't adhere well to aluminum tape, so the part is easy to remove.

Here I'm using tweezers to stress the rod to conform to the canopy shape. The yellow tape is to help to keep the tweezers from scratching the plastic.

 

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With the tweezers removed.

 

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It still needs some fine tuning.

 

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A part fell off.

 

That's all for now. I still have round three to do. This time I'll cover the inside with some clear 'frisket' and the locations to which I need to glue I'll locate aluminum tape. That way I'll better be able to see the framework and know a little better where to locate the conduit, and, I may be able to use liquid glue.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Sorry, Jerry. My e-mail has been spastic for about 3 weeks now. I'll send you a PM.

 

Photos taken from the Hasegawa Corporation book on the Bf109G-6, Modeler's Eye Series #3.

The other 2 books in the series are the FW190D-9 and F-18, I don't know the F-18 variants.

The 109 book has Hartmanns' winter scheme double chevron on the cover.

 

K-4CanopyDefrosterConduit1.jpg

G-6Y, W.Nr.167271, Central Finland Aviation Museum. Page 21. Photo 47. Also in Aero Detail 5, Photo 86, Page 19.

 

K-4CanopyDefrosterConduit2.jpg

Same aircraft, Page 51, Photo 50, in Hasegawa's book. Also in Aero Detail 5, Photo 85, Page 19.

 

The next one's are G-10's from 109 Lair.

 

610824rg-101.jpg

 

610824rg-121.jpg

 

POF0431.jpg

 

POF0411.jpg

 

POF0391.jpg

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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Mark

 

Nice work on the canopy.

 

As far as I'm aware most of the structure you show and those parts you modelled are in fact the actual tubular framework of the canopy. If you look at the photos you'll see the holes line up with screw/bolt heads on the outer canopy. I think there's basically a sandwich consisting of tubular frame/metal spacer/plexiglass and then the outer metal strip.

 

However inthe last photos of the restored and then unrestored G-10 you have some excellent views of the de-mister fitted to G-10s from a certain factory (don't have the details to hand). This is the pipe with a flattened nozzle at each end pointing upwards into the glazing. In the last photo, which gives a really good view, you can see that this pipe 'plugs' into a hole (sealed with a rubber gasket) in the decking behind the pilot seat.

 

I don't think the demisting system was common on G-10/K-4 a/c (not sure if it was on K-4 at all?) and as far as I'm aware it wasn't fitted to any earlier models at all. Of course given the degree of a/c recycling going on in '44/'45 it may have been possible to have found a G-10 feature on maybe a G-14 or G-6..?

 

HTH

 

Matt

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