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Erich Hartmann, Ace of Aces, Bf109G-14, Double Chevron

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Vaughn,

You aren't the first one to question my mental state. But I assure you, it's not insanity, it's a philosophy.

Thank you for your compliment on my work.

 

A few pictures on the G-14 drop tank that I reworked with 4mm tabs.

 

DSCN5097.jpg

This is a fast sketch I did of the condition in the engine compartment. Lower left is of the lower aspect of the fastener. It is hollow and receives the 'T' screw located on top. Washer and bolt round out the fastening condition. Right side is a side view.

 

DSCN5068.jpg

Parts layout. Alinimum corners were champhered 45 degrees then sanded round. Left aluminum 1.5mm wide x 4mm long, opening is 2mm. Slot is .5, .5, .5mm. 3 pieces of .020 rod, 1.5mm long. Right aluminum same dimensions except the opening is 2.5mm deep (it needs the room to accept the bolt). .5mm deep .25 bolt. .010 rod, supposed to be .5mm long.

 

DSCN5070.jpg

.020 rod in place.

 

DSCN5071.jpg

Aluminum in place. Snug the aluminum up into the crevice between the rod and tank wall, superglue it and leave it alone to dry really well.

The joint needs to be firm to be able to round the aluminum over the rod.

 

DSCN5096.jpg

Use an exacto knife blade to gently coax the aluminum into place and glue, then add bolt.

 

Other stuff:

 

DSCN5079.jpg

Close enough for government work.

 

DSCN5080.jpg

Other side.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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I like you philosophy Mark.

 

Mine is similar, difference being that you actually seem to finish stuff!

 

Drop tanks are great. For added accuracy you could remove the foremost seam - it wasn't present on the real tank.

 

 

post-528-1275336684.jpg

 

Matt

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Thanks for the how to, very neat bit of work (taking notes furiously and right clicking)

 

As for philosophy, is that as in Socrates or as in Mel Brooks (standup Philosophy) ?.....

 

Cheers

 

Vaughn

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Kev, Vaugn,

As I said to my kids while they were growing up 'Share, share, that's what's fair.'

I'm glad I can help. Thank you for your compliments.

 

Socrates and Mel Brooks. . . that's funny. My philosophy? I think it is somewhere in between. There are many who have stated phrases similar to that which defines my philosophy but I don't think any one person can be held responsible for the quote. My view on much, and especially when it comes to modelling, is that it's not the destination, but the journey.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Much of the stuff that I've been doing on the K-4 thread can translate to this build, but I have only been posting over there so as to not double post.

But I do have something specific to this build, and it is the finished wheel wells.

 

DSCN5191.jpg

While using a Dremel to remove the excess plastic to the part shaft openings I scraped the edge, so I put some super glue on it and will sand it later.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Thank you for your compliments Ron, Hakan, and Blackbetty.

 

I decided to take some R & R from the K-4 build and decompress with something minor. I had installed a brass tube in the tailwheel of the earlier G-6 build to replace the broken shaft and rotated it because it seemed like a good idea. I had been wondering how to do something similar with this tailwheel, but a little less harrowing, when I came up with this. In retrospect, it's over engineered, but it's done, and it works.

 

DSCN5236.jpg

Some time ago I bought these because it seemed as if one day it would be a useful tool. They are thinner than miter saws and don't cause ridges when cutting as do exacto blades. Being as thin as they are, less plastic is removed from the point of contact.

 

DSCN5237.jpg

I used a #11 blade as a center punch, graduated the drilling, and inserted a brass tube into the boot. Then I did the same with the shaft. I had shimmed the shaft to replace the removed plastic but it popped off during the final drilling. I didn't bother replacing it.

 

DSCN5238.jpg

All together, now. The brass rod is champhered at both ends. Champhering the ends makes it easier to slide the rod into the wheel and the brass tube. I will drill a hole into the fuselage and insert the rod into it. The boot is only 3mm deep. It seemed to me to not be deep enough to keep the wheel from wobbling.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Minor update. I pulled a vac of the drop tank fairing and did some work on it to smooth things out.

 

DSCN5239.jpg

This time I pulled it gloss side down/matte side up. The low reflective quality makes a big difference to me. I've already sanded the contour.

The vac seems to have a natural spring about itself so it requires a little push to match the contour of the kit part. The retaining pin knock-out holes are smaller on this side.

 

DSCN5240.jpg

Other side. Pin head openings are larger.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Smashing stuff Mark!

I'd love to follow you on the tank fairing on mine but I'd have to rip it off!

Might leave some of the internal mounting stuff hanging off though, Hmmmm!

 

Well Done mate!!

 

Phil :thumbsup:

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Beautiful work Mark ! Love watching a master (or is it madman ? :speak_cool: ) at work. I love the way you scratch something and it looks like the real thing shrunk down to 1/32. This is going to be even more of a jaw dropper once you get it painted.

 

~taking notes furiously, right click/save~ :hmmm:

 

Cheers

 

Vaughn

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