Which F4U to start with?

[thierry laurent]

I looked at one built by a friend and we both agree that there is something odd about the shape. Couldn't pin it down exactly. I personally thought it was the wing angle/shape.

 

Indeed, if you built the kit as such, there is an angle issue with the wings but as explained in one of the links (the LSP one if my memory's right), correcting this is easy. Building the flaps of the Trumpy kit as such also results in an odd stance!

 

Besides this wing aspect, I've compared the kits and don't think that the 21st century kit has more shape issues than the Trumpy option. However, it is up to you to decide what it the best starting point.

 

It is unfortunately an hard fact that the final large scale Corsair has yet to be released...

[Texas]

It is unfortunately an hard fact that the final large scale Corsair has yet to be released...

 

I for one thank it's time for Tamiya to get off their duff and do one...They already have the best one in 1/48scale...

 

Texas

[ChrisS]

And for what its worth, the Revell kit has great overall shape and can be made into a real winner with some elbow grease.

[LSP_K2]

I wish I could get a Kagero book with the decals for 833. I have plenty of time to worry about decals though.

Are you by any chance talking about this book?

[jetmech777]

I wish I could get a Kagero book with the decals for 833. I have plenty of time to worry about decals though.

 

Are you by any chance talking about this book?

The Kagero monograph volume 1 had the decals for 833 I believe. As of right now I am planning on doing a VF-17 bird unless I can find decals to do one of Boyingtons lesser known rides.

[LSP_Ray]

I might have a spare set of Boyington decals. I will check when I get back home. I know I have spare VF-17 decals, so don't worry about decals for a while.

[Allok]

I have a bit of a soft spot for the old Revell Corsair as well, in spite of all its deficiencies. You can pick them up quite cheap on Ebay. You can even get good deals on some of the corrections if you look around a bit.

You will definitely need new flaps, a new cockpit, new wheels, legs and bays at the very least.

 

Here's one I prepared earlier.

 

Having said that, you can get Trump Corsairs quite cheap on Ebay too.

[jetmech777]

Allok, that is one masterful build! That is why I came here with the question. There is some seriously skilled builders over here. If I could get a Corsair to look half as good as the ones on LSP,I would be proud to put it on the mantle. Thanks for looking into your decals LSP Ray. Allok's build makes me rethink another Revell kit. That amount of scratchbuilding though is too much for me. I still want to have fun. Modelling is my escape and needs to not be tedious or frustrating like my last couple of builds.

[CharlesMetz]

Good news and bad news:

 

-- Decals for Pappy Boyington's "White 86" were produced also by Eagle Strike:

 

Pacific Corsairs, Pt. II; 1/32 scale; manufactured by Eagle Strike Productions [uSA] — product no. 32048; MEDIUM/MEDIA: decal; MARKINGS: Merl Davenport's F4U-1A “9” of VMF-17, Bougainville, 1944; Ira Kepford's F4U-1A “29” of VMF-17; F4U-1A “007” of VMF-115, Phillipines, December 1944; "Pappy" Boyington's F4U-1A “86” of VMF-214, Vella Lavella, December 1943

 

-- Apparently this sheet is out of print as well, though it's one more option to keep an eye out for.

 

Charles Metz

[Allok]

Allok's build makes me rethink another Revell kit. That amount of scratchbuilding though is too much for me. I still want to have fun. Modelling is my escape and needs to not be tedious or frustrating like my last couple of builds.

Cheers.

If I was to do another Revell corsair, I would probably use the True details cockpit, Quickboost engine, Jerry Rutmans prop and wheels and fix the rest myself. Costs more but saves a ton of work.

 

Or I would just build the Trump kit. Although I enjoy doing a bit of scratch-building it is definitely easier to add a few little details to a kit that's already pretty good than literally start from scratch.

 

Incidentally, I have a 21st Century Corsair in the stash. Looks like a fun build.

[LDSmodeller]

I have a bit of a soft spot for the old Revell Corsair as well, in spite of all its deficiencies. You can pick them up quite cheap on Ebay. You can even get good deals on some of the corrections if you look around a bit.

You will definitely need new flaps, a new cockpit, new wheels, legs and bays at the very least.

 

Here's one I prepared earlier.

 

Having said that, you can get Trump Corsairs quite cheap on Ebay too.

 

Keith read through your build log

 

Some comments to help you and others looking at building RNZAF

F4U-1's or the FG-1D

 

All F4U's were received brand new and assembled and BOC (brought on charge) at the servicing

units in the Pacific (only the SBD 3/4s were second hand)

 

FG-1D's were also received brand new at servicing units in Pacific, and saw active service before flying to

New Zealand at wars end, initially were put into storage but 24 were pulled from storage, refurbished at Ardmore for J Force

(Occupation of Japan 1946-48) with RNZAF 14 Squadron

 

ALL FG-1D's were painted Overall Glossy Sea Blue not the 4 tone colour (the Warbirds FG-1D in your photo in

4 tone is painted to represent a F4U)

 

Only difference between USN/USMC and RNZAF aircraft was removal of arrestor hook on RNZAF

Corsairs and fitting of Sutton harness

 

HTH

 

Alan

[jetmech777]

Good news and bad news:

 

-- Decals for Pappy Boyington's "White 86" were produced also by Eagle Strike:

 

Pacific Corsairs, Pt. II; 1/32 scale; manufactured by Eagle Strike Productions [uSA] — product no. 32048; MEDIUM/MEDIA: decal; MARKINGS: Merl Davenport's F4U-1A “9” of VMF-17, Bougainville, 1944; Ira Kepford's F4U-1A “29” of VMF-17; F4U-1A “007” of VMF-115, Phillipines, December 1944; "Pappy" Boyington's F4U-1A “86” of VMF-214, Vella Lavella, December 1943

 

-- Apparently this sheet is out of print as well, though it's one more option to keep an eye out for.

 

Charles Metz

Thanks for the info Charles.

[jetmech777]

Cheers.

If I was to do another Revell corsair, I would probably use the True details cockpit, Quickboost engine, Jerry Rutmans prop and wheels and fix the rest myself. Costs more but saves a ton of work.

 

Or I would just build the Trump kit. Although I enjoy doing a bit of scratch-building it is definitely easier to add a few little details to a kit that's already pretty good than literally start from scratch.

 

Incidentally, I have a 21st Century Corsair in the stash. Looks like a fun build.

That was my thought also on the Revell Corsair. I think I would still need to get the Lone star flaps and wells. I am hesitant to do the flaps as you did so well on yours. If I decide for sure on a Trumpeter kit. What would be the must do's or must replace items for that kit. I know about the forward gear doors and cowl flaps. I think I might cut the cockpit floor and maybe add some Eduard etch. I would like to make the Corsair nice but, as I hit another brick wall with my current project, I need it to be do-able.

[rafju]

If I decide for sure on a Trumpeter kit. What would be the must do's or must replace items for that kit. I know about the forward gear doors and cowl flaps. I think I might cut the cockpit floor and maybe add some Eduard etch. I would like to make the Corsair nice but, as I hit another brick wall with my current project, I need it to be do-able.

 

Hi, my 0.2cts

 

for the Trump kit, you must replace the complete engine cowl with one from the Revell kit (due to bad front cowl ring...) or wait for the Derek' project.

Scratch build the cowl flaps.

Cockpit should be the True Detail or Black Box one.

New forward gear doors

New resin wheels

Revell propeller (according to which version you are going into)

Gluing the flaps

and that's it.

 

Raphael, an other Corsair enthusiast...

[jetmech777]

Thanks rafju for the breakdown. I agree with your assessment. It sounds like there may be a new cowling with cowl flaps in process(see thread on this site). I think the true details cockpit is a winner. It is sounding like I'm going to have to borrow from one of my old built Revell Corsairs or get another Revell kit on the cheap to rob parts out of. I'm thinking of Lone star wheels(diamond tread). No new motor. Is it not a good idea to use the Mastercasters cowl flaps? If I rob a cowling, I would like to put these resin ones on. What about the metal gear legs? It would be fantastic for an aftermarket company to come up with complete correction sets for each of the available kits. I think they would sell like hotcakes. I always hope for the impossible. Of course by the time I get this project near completion....Tamiya or someone else will drop an all new kit. That is how it goes. I always have room for another Corsair though.