Youngtiger1 Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Wow, looks good buddy. I'll have a take a closer look on photos of the jet to see this heat sig. Totally cool!!
John F Smith Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Sometimes words seem inadequate to express just how beautiful someone's work is...... That's the case here for me. I'm just reading this build log for the first time, but it is just astounding work. I can only hope that my own will be as good someday. First Class!!! John
geedubelyer Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Those bits and pieces look brilliant. Great job.
crobinsonh Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 Wow, looks good buddy. I'll have a take a closer look on photos of the jet to see this heat sig. Totally cool!! Hi Mike, You can see them on page 46 & 47 of the DACO book - that said I have made a mistake. I have the heat marks as lighter than the burner cans whereas they should be darker. Oh well - next time!
crobinsonh Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 That is some really fantastic work! Kev Sometimes words seem inadequate to express just how beautiful someone's work is...... That's the case here for me. I'm just reading this build log for the first time, but it is just astounding work. I can only hope that my own will be as good someday. First Class!!! John Those bits and pieces look brilliant. Great job. Thank you for your kind comments - I am determined that this model is finished in 2015. There are many knock on events from leaving masking tape (even Tamiya) for years.
crobinsonh Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) More progress over the last 30 hours and a potentially major road bump. First I applied a coat of Vallejo Matt varnish straight from the can. I think this had a real nice affect on the weathering effects, toning them down just as I wanted. Some general weathering on the airframe - again using DACO as my main reference. Most was done with MIG 502 oils. The blackening within the aerofoil section for the flaps was done with pastel pencils. I need to replace the damaged decal. I also observed weathering on some of the sensors - makes sense as they are protruding from the general airflow. Then we came to my nasty problem. One caused by a) not removing enough resin/plastic when fitting the Blackbox resin cockpit, using super glue originally on the plastic insert from the kit - not thinking that this was actually being glued to the plastic park of the kit cockpit. The net effect is that if I try and now push it together (it did work originally) the pressure now flexes the kit plastic and caused what is currently a hairline crack where the LEX joins the fuselage but this will only get worse over time. My thought are to live with it and just fill the gap with plastic sprue & putty. Sand and spray. It will not look perfect but apart from taking the model apart I cannot think of a better suggestion tonight. A better view If anyone has any better thoughts on fixing this problem I would certainly appreciate it. I will not do anything now until tomorrow morning GMT Edited April 16, 2015 by crobinsonh
Guest Smitty44 Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) I would get some Apoxy Sculpt, which is a two part putty. It is water based so while it is still wet you can smooth it with a wet q-tip, let dry (about 4 hours), then paint it.....no sanding required. They should havesome at sprue bros and you can get it in gray!!! John Edited April 16, 2015 by LSP_Kevin
NavyMech06 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 The overspray? LEAVE IT!! I'm a mechanic on F-18's and our corrosion guys do it all the time!! The damaged decal for the port engine bay formation light? LEAVE IT!! Our formation lights look like that all the time. Otherwise not much advice for the resin cockpit bits. With having 7 years of maintenance experience on these bad boys, you've created one of the best looking model Hornets I've seen!!
Vitali Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 The overspray looks realistic and I would leave it. Fill it with putty and sand is the only option open to you I think. Maybe some epoxy putty would work and you can work it with a wet knife so you have minimal clean up. Vitali. Out2gtcha 1
otis252 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Maybe you could try to fill it with a thin shim? It might require less sanding, just a thought. Chuck Out2gtcha 1
bdthoresen Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 I agree with Otis, why not gently clean out the "slot" with a sharp blade, and shape a styrene shim to fit, and cement it in place. That way, you pack out the gap to be solid, then a small amount of finish sanding, and touch it up. If that is the worst problem you have during the build, you are doing great...Please keep the updates coming....THOR
alaninaustria Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 I would suggest as already mentioned to use two part epoxy filler and fill the gap; all the rest just leave it! That is one hell of a realistic bug!! Cheers Alan
crobinsonh Posted April 18, 2015 Author Posted April 18, 2015 Thanks to everyone for there help. I have now cleaned out the hole and filled with Miliput fine and smoothed with water. Now to see tomorrow under paint what it looks like.
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