Chris Hannover - Germany Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hi all,after a long breake, i'm finally back at the bench. About two years of doing this and that, starting different kits, working on and off on them, loosing the interest in the hobby, i was already at the point of giving up the whole crap. But then again, i can't sell all the great stuff i collected over years. My skills raised up the last years, (with the help of some great guys here) the models became better and better, it would be a pitty to stop now. What i stoped is the work for magazines. Building models is one thing, but if you have to it's another beer. I think that was the biggest part of loosing the interest in the hobby. Sure, it's great to see your own models in a magazine and earn some money with doing articles, but now i can build what i want and when i want.Enough bla bla, let's get the party started!Here is the new projectIt will be this one (at least i hope )Now i have a question to you T-Bolt Experts: Was it possible, to carry that drop tank, bombs AND the rockets all together? If yes, where are the roket pipes mounted? Exact location, maybe a drawing or a pic?Which prop can i use for the "Balls Out"?From left to right:Hasegawa kit prop, Trumpeter prop ( think it should be the same one) and another Trump prop, which i would prefer as it looks bad! A first test fit. Major fit is great, with exception of the enginecowling. Most of you will know it, it is sitting way to high.To solve this problem, i cut off the front end of the fuselage. It will be glued back in place (the correct one) after the enginge pod and fuselage is done.Another question about the engine wiring. There are 20 spark wire connectors at the below half of the gearbox. Does anyone have a good pic, which shows the way of the wires? And what about the 2 "unused" connectors?? Hope you know what i mean.Thanks for looking,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfly Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Good to see you back at it Chris. The ignition wire ring for the kit is a little strange. Appears to be a few wires short. Hope this pic helps. Cheers...Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hi Jerry,thanks mate! That's how i know it too. But the kit part looks like this. 10 connectors on each side on the bottom half only. Is this wrong? Or did some engines really had it like this?Cheers,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hi Chris, Looking forward to following another one of your builds That ignition ring doesn't represent anything ever used on a P&W R-2800 Here are a few more pics I took at Duxford. Also, don't forget to not glue the trailing edge of each wing when assembling the wing halfs. The wing is to narrow at the wing root and the halves need to be seperated at the trailing edge to match the wing root. If you don't do this you will have a step that needs filling Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Thanks Ron!Great hint withe the wing thing! I didn't knew that by now.It seems i found a solution about the ignition ring! Good to have a spares box...Stay tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Chris my friend,first off all the best to you and your's in the New Year...second,great to see your work here again mate.That's a great bit of info from Ron re:the rear wing width.I'll be keeping that one in the list of things to have an eye for...cheers...Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Use the middle prop (Curtiss Symetrical) for the D-30. The 9th AAF did not employ "massive" load outs classically as they were close to the front and flew many sorties per day. Use a center drop, with 250lb bombs on the wings and the rocket tubes inboard of the bomb racks roughly under the inboard-most .50 cal... This is the most "classic" 9th AAF loadout too. Seems like you've got the wiring question answewred too Gonna be watching this one for sure! Let me know if you need help with the decals, I know for a fact that the white "starburst" under the bull decal needs some trimming to get it to conform to the cowling curveature (my mistake in the vector art ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Thanks Dave & Chris! Dave, for you and yours too! Chris, directly under the inbord gun? On the pics it looks a bit like between the inbord guns. It should be forward enough, to get the flaps full down, right? Cheers all & Happy New Year, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Yes you're right...that's why I said "roughly" under the inboard gun. Trumpeter's wing has the right location for the tubes, I can scan that part for you if you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Thanks Chris,if it's the same position as on the Razorbacks, i'll find it out. Just wanted to go right with this one.Thanks,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Yup, same mounting scheme as the Razorback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi folks, here is an update.As i already mentioned, i found a solution for the wrong front end of the engine. In my spares box i found a Quickboost P&W engine and i used that gearbox.Looks much better to me.Here the almost completet engine. The cylinders need some cleaning up, but there will not much visible in the end.Engine in the frameWasn't there a metal plate between both cylinder rows?I tryed to make one from scratch, but i'm not happy with the resultThen i had the idea, to machine one from aluminium. I used a CAD system to make a programm for my CNC machine on work. In this video you'll see what the machine will do as soon as i'm back on work. >See this CAD Video<That's for the moment. Please let me know what you think. Comments & Critic always welcome!Cheers,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Chris, Actually it is not a plate. there are 18 baffles mounted either on the cylinder heads or on a mounting ring. What you have is a part from the old Revell kit. Yes it can be used on the Hase motor but to use it the blank areas should line up with the front row of cylinders, and that little triangle area between the openings should line up with the back row of cylinders with the ignition wires going through that triangle to the rear cylinder behind it. Truth be told once the cowling is on only you will know its there. I have seen the baffles mounted to a ring and the Vector kit mounts the baffles to the cylinder heads. I don't have clear enough pictures to tell if both ways were used or which is correct. Maybe some one that has the large volume on the 2800 and can let us know HTH Mike Horina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Thanks for the info Mike, but the "plate" i want to machine is from the Trumpeter T-Bolt Razorback Kit. I thought it meight be some kind of a protection plate between the cylinder rows. The 9 openings should line up the rear cylinder row, to get them cooled by air flow. It will look like the Trumpeter engine in the end, at least i hope so. Cheers, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 That engine looks great. Here are some more pics I took at Duxford showing the plate your talking about. This is a real Razor Back also I believe it's a baffle to direct airflow to the rear bank of cylinders for better cooling Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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