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Airfix 1/24th Mustang


Ironwing

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  • 2 weeks later...

All,

 

Taking a break from the fuselage rework, Ive done some work on the flaps.I'll tell you, when you start working to a set of drawings with real numbers, everything starts to change once you begin to make parts to fit the drawing. I guess thats no surprise, but it surely makes things a bit more complicated. Making the flaps is no exception.

Of course they dont fit the fuselage at the inboard end. There is an interference with the molded curve

(shouldnt be curved anyway) on the lower fuselage and they are slightly longer in span than the kit. Not a difficult fix, just another fix that needs to be done. The fuselage has been modified in this area to accept the flap end but isnt in final shape. The aileron inboard line has also been reduced to match the drawing and allow the flap to fit as it should.

 

The flaps themselves are made using the kit original as a "core". The aluminum skins are laminated on top, bottom and ends. I used "Liquid Nails", available in Home Depot, to attach the new skins. I initially tried using CA to hold them in place. It works but it tends to be brittle and hence weak. The Liquid Nails goes on like a caulk (silicone) with the applicator supplied on the tube.\ and leaves behind a grooved even layer upon which the skins are placed and pressed into position. The trailing edge is to the right. Depending how you orient the "grain" of the material, it changes the appearance of the aluminum (panel effect).

 

This is the top surface of the flap after the skin has been applied. The trailing edge is preshaped as is the prototype and forms a V shaped end cap. This goes in place first. The upper skin is then applied once the adhesive on the end cap is cured out. The skin shapes are scribed onto a sheet of aluminum then "snapped out". Doing it this way assures a clean straight edge.

post-1406-1253830160.jpg

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This is the outboard end. The aluminum makes a really clean and sharp trailing edge without the need for sanding. It is important that the long endges meet properly. The effect is nice and creates a very realistic panel line. Even in this shot, you can see the color difference between the top flap panel and the trailing edge. Its created by the orientation of the material, no coloring was done. The pieces were cut from the same sheet of aluminum.

post-1406-1253830588.jpg

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In order for the aluminum to be convincing, it needs to remain uniform and flat while the adhesive cures. In this photo, the upper skin is on along with the TE cap. To maintain even pressure while drying, the parts were clamped to a piece of glass. An added bonus of this is that you can see through the glass and check the alignment of the flap skin. If it's off, you can adjust it and reclamp the assembly. The same process was used for both surfaces.

post-1406-1253831723.jpg

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This is what comes out of it. Flap leading edges still need to be formed and added. I havent made a decision yet whether or not to put surface detail on them. The panel line between the trailing edge and the main flap panel is just that...a line, not a groove. It's (IMHO) really convincing in appearance.

 

The wing and fuselage have also undergone another mating exercise and the ventral intake has been added to the lower wing and fittted. That was then put in place and the intake and aft underside of the fuselage were matched up using miliput. Putting the intake on the wing raher than the fuselage allows you work in the fuselage without the intake in the way.

Ill put in some pics of that next time.

 

Hope everyone is well...

 

Geoff

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Another stooped groveler checking in. WOW, now your using aluminum on the exterrior too! What method are you using to form/bend it, RE: the trailing edge of the flap?

 

You should put this on video, I'd give a lot to watch you work for a couple of days.

 

Fred

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Kevin, JR, Fred, Derek...

 

You guys are crazy :) . There is no reason why you couldnt do this. Its Just a bunch of flat pieces. But thanks just the same for the compliments. Good to know you appreciate it.

 

Fred,

 

Ill call you later and we can talk about this.

 

Glad you guys looked in...hope all is well.

 

Best,

 

Geoff

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  • 4 weeks later...

All,

 

Its been a while since my last post and since Im home with a solid case of bronchitis (doc says no work but golf and modeling is ok) I thought I might catch up. Progress has been slow. In reality Ive created more trash than parts but I think I might have gotten it pretty close to right this time.

Like everything else, the shape of the inlet and ducting system for the coolants is a bit odd. It's split into top and bottom rdiators with each having their own ducting. I must admit it gave me more than a fair amount of trouble. Making the shapes wasnt all that hard. Making the shapes and keeping it all aligned so it fits properly in the fuselage is another story. Everything is based off the position of the front cut out that forms the openings for the radiators.

There is a good deal of sanding that needs to happen on the inside of the fuselage in order to fit the new bulkhead at the radiator front. It was made from .060 card stock first with the aluminum face laminated over it. Final shaping and opening of the radiator entries was done after the lamination was completed.

The glycol radiator (the big one) is just a box open at the front and rear with a baffel placed inside to prevent look through. I have this nagging thought in the back of my head though that if you looked into the intake of the Mustang, you might well be able to see all the way out the other end. Anyone care to share thoughts on this?

Anyway, here are the lasted progress shots. Hope you enjoy...

 

The roughed in inlet assembly, AKA the "dog house." The front face is a lamination of ABS and aluminum. Dimensions are from the Neely Drawings. Note that while the overall shape of the dog house is very close, it isnt exact. The oil cooler inlet in the oval shaped opening on the bottom. The engine coolant opening is on top. Bent abs will be added at the corners in order to give a gluing surface for the panel sides. The dog house is shaped, such that, the bottom goes down, the top goes up and the sides bend inward and it all ends up in a square where it meets the radiator. Thats why I chose to do it as separte pieces.

post-1406-1256155400.jpg

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The back end of the assembly is clealy visible when looking into the outlet tunnel on the lower fuselage. K&S PE screen is used for the radiator face. The edges still have to be final fitted and glused in place. The assembly needs to be real straight once its glued together or it wont fit in the fuselage properly.

post-1406-1256156614.jpg

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