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1/24th Scale BF-109 G-6


ruzlkampf

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Hah! I work at night and don't get off work until 11:00 so I'm just going to bed about now. 5:30am! I only work about 2-2 1/2 hrs. a night on these things and just constantly chip away at em. Oh, and I haven't watched any TV in about 5 years so I have no distractions.

Oh yeah, you were asking what I do with these after I get done with them?(I don't keep any...then I'd have to dust them. :rolleyes: ) If I can't find somebody to give them a home, I walk about a block away to a park by the beach and put them on a picnic table and leave it. This particular kit I'll keep for awhile, just cause it's so much fun to 'varoom around' with. hehe.

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Hey All, As I was glueing my wing on this morning...I was musing on why everybody thinks I build so quickly? As I was filling in all the invariable 'cracks' in my wing join, I realized I was using something that I've never seen on this forum. So!....I thought I'd share one of my 'speed secrets' with everybody. It only took me about 15 minutes to go around this model and fill all all the 'anomalies' with filler. Why? Cause I did it with a paintbrush. :rolleyes:

In my never-ending quest for putty nirvana, I ran across this stuff.

 

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Water based dissoved putty. I don't know about ya'll, but applying other fillers with some kind of applicator(trowel, spatula, scrap styrene, ect.) is a PITA and fraught with danger to surrounding detail. This goes on with a paintbrush, and washes of with water.

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Here are some of the time-saving applications I use this stuff for.

 

#1-filling in around the tail-wheel opening cover....with a brush.

 

post-4413-1222537323.jpg

 

 

#2-filling in those pesky little holes I had to drill in the wing for the wheel bulges on top. A drop on a brush 'self levels' into each hole filling it nicely...and doesn't require sanding in a tight place. Also works well for those sink & ejecter marks that always crop up in a bizarre hard to get place.

 

post-4413-1222537427.jpg

 

#3-Want to get rid of that wing-join line without losing all the rivet detail? 'Paint' it on with a brush in a thin line.

 

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#4-Here I've gone around my de-aerator' bulge to get it filled in without losing the surrounding detail. Cool! :rolleyes:

 

post-4413-1222537776.jpg

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Stuff dries real quick cause it's water based, and sands easily with a folded corner of sandpaper. Will probably take me about 5-10 minutes to go back over these areas and get everything smoothed out. Sweet! Also, as watery and thin as this stuff seems when going on, it shrinks VERY little. When i first got it, I couldn't possibly imagine what I'd use it for....now I can't imagine doing without it. Good product. At $5 a bottle, I thought it was outlandish, but when I see how much time it saves me, and how easy/precise to install and clean up....it's a steal.

 

Yawn, well I think I'll take another nap...then go sailing, and come back and knock this application of filler down(ya'll can see it won't take much effort) and start PAINTING this cow pie kicker tonight. Oh yeah, i wanted to show where I had to apply shims in the front to get the spiner to center. The engine just juts out from its bearers into the engine nacelle with nothing to align it. The oil tank glues to the fuse sides, NOT to the engine, so there is a little 'wriggle room' for the motor to point up/down or off to a side and throwinng off the spinner. These scrap styrene shims took care of that. Whoohoo!

 

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More pics as things progress! :rolleyes: Later, Russ

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Hey All, As I was glueing my wing on this morning...I was musing on why everybody thinks I build so quickly? As I was filling in all the invariable 'cracks' in my wing join, I realized I was using something that I've never seen on this forum. So!....I thought I'd share one of my 'speed secrets' with everybody. It only took me about 15 minutes to go around this model and fill all all the 'anomalies' with filler. Why? Cause I did it with a paintbrush. :huh:

In my never-ending quest for putty nirvana, I ran across this stuff.

 

post-4413-1222537008.jpg

 

Water based dissoved putty. I don't know about ya'll, but applying other fillers with some kind of applicator(trowel, spatula, scrap styrene, ect.) is a PITA and fraught with danger to surrounding detail. This goes on with a paintbrush, and washes of with water.

 

Good to see an update Russ. I use this product occasionally, but my experiences with it are vastly different to yours. Are you sure it's water-based? The stuff I use doesn't seem to be (and the rest of the 'Mr' line seems to be lacquer-based), but you certainly can't tell from the label. :ph34r: I also find it shrinks like there's no tomorrow, and have to use repeat applications as it sinks into a seam or divot. Still, it's good to see you using it with great success, and I'll have to try the water clean-up and see what happens. It's just weird that we're talking about the same product (I checked my bottle and it's identical to yours), and yet have such different experiences of it. Of course, it's typical for me to be handed some idiot-proof modelling product and make a ham-fisted mess of it!

 

Kev

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I'm back!, after a nice day out. Yep Kevin, I know exactly what you mean. :P I thought this was the biggest bottle of crap I'd ever seen, and Cuban 'slang words' would be a mild way of putting the expletives I was spouting. I didn't know it was water based either until I started experimenting with it....all the directions and info is in oriental writing! This stuff DOES have it's applications though, and just like anything else has it's limitations and stuff it excels at. If I were to fill in the rivets on a Mustang wing, or a Bearcat fuse, this is what I'd use. Especially if I wanted to minimize any surrounding detail. Stuff is for finer lines, cracks, holes. Fills the gap(no pun intended) between Mr. Surfacer, or white-out correction mask, and say Squadron putty. Except it doesn't melt the plastic. Precision application is it's forte, and most of the time saved is in what I DON'T have to do. Like major sanding, re-scribing, re-riveting, ect. I don't know how to describe how to use it Kevin, I've just learned from experience what it does, and I keep finding zillions of uses it excels at. Most of the time I don't even have to sand it, just scrape it with the flat of an exacto knife blade. Scrapes off easy, but stays where you want it on the model. Not too hard, not too soft. Amazing stuff actually.

But I digress; Don't want to sound like a know-it-all---I just try(and use) a lot of different stuff to keep my builds stress free and fun. After a pleasant day on the bay, I came home and sprayed my yellow color in it's appropriate places. Went to do some laundry to let it dry, and when I got back sprayed the Reichband blue. While that was drying, I sprayed my prop RLM70, and while THAT was drying, sprayed my spinner and wheel hubs black. whew! ;) Was on a roll, so while I was heating up dinner, I went ahead and painted my canopy. When I wake up tomorrow, everything should be ready for the final camo colors! Whoohoo! :P My favorite part, OK that and decals. Here's where I'm at tonight before calling it quits. Another 2-2 1/2hrs. of modelling today.

 

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Along with using Mr Dissolved Putty Russ, I reckon you must be drinking Mr Model Faster as well. :P Unbelievable. I think what amazes us, your humble followers, is that despite working at lightning speed, the quality of your results remains impressive.

 

Thanks for expanding on your use of the putty too Russ. I'm at about that stage in my Sea Venom build, so I'll try it out with a new approach and see how it goes.

 

Kev

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Bwhahah! Naw Kevin, it's the chocolate milkshake and pizza....that's the 'breakfast of champions'! :rolleyes: Had a good day in the paint-booth(actually my living room floor :rolleyes: ) and got another 2 hours in on 'das Gustav'. Basic camo is done, but I ran outta places that were dry to hold it, so I didn't get my black painted wingroots and exhaust area done tonight. Whahhh!

 

Here it is fresh from the maskinng tape around the cockpit, rudder, and engine undersides. After musing on the pics I have of this AC, I realized it has an RLM74 cross on the side and had to 'guesstimate' on painting the areas behind it. hmmm.

 

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