LSP_Mike Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 Thanks for the reply Geoff. I have an original Revell B, and a hase D so I may give it a whirl. I even have a Pacific marine interior, so may add that. I'm no rivet counter by any leap, but your conversion looks close enough for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre F-86 Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 Ironwing, I just read this thread form end to end. This method of reworking the Revell/Hasegawa kit makes a good bit of sense. I've had the two kits sitting in the garage waiting to do, and I was originally planning on grafting the nose of the Has kit to the Revell kit. Looking at the work you've done, I'll go your route. My hats off to you. Sabre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eagledocf15 Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 Any updates. I am in withdrawal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 Doc, Update soon... Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Greetings All, A bit more progress on the B wing. The main internal structural members are in and the wing fit to the fuselage has been refined to the point where I think it's acceptable. Pics to follow... Visible is the main spar, the two adjusting pads used to adjust the height of the aft wing section, the front face of the flap seat and the triangular piece that closes the aft center section of the wing where it meets the fuselage just above the oil cooler intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 With the wing skin lifted. Note the notch cut into the main spar stiffener. This allows the fuselage to slide in behind the main spar and positions the wing for and aft and side to side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 The trailing edge and flap seat. This isnt hard to do. It just takes some time and careful measurements. The Revell wing can be made to fit the Hasegawa fuselage without too much work or heartburn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Fuselage and wing at the trailing edge. Im not a big fan of fillers so I try to get things to fit as closely as I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 The ELE fit has been refined to its finished shape and position. Next will come new internal wing skins and structural members of aluminum...I hope Hope every one is well, Regards, Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javlin1 Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Really liking it Geoff.I will have to try the extra stryene techique next go round.kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Hello All, The B isnt dead! . It just takes a back seat till the D is done. Ive done some work in the wheel wells using printers aluminum to form the upper surface wing skins. The internal structure of the B wing is the same as the D. There is a difference in the forward false spar to which the ELE attaches. I havent gotten that far yet. The skins are laminated into place using Zap A Gap after being cut to shape. The alignment in important. Aluminum, while not difficult to work with (and gives a great NMF) doesnt give you the liberties you have with ABS. Stuff has to fit...period. It takes time but its doable. I also noticed that the printers aluminum that I have has different finishes. I gues depending upon what etching process has been used on it. It makes for nice contrasts in finish without being garish. Ive also doscovered that Radu's riveting tool, when used on the aluminum, makes little holes on one side and perfectly shaped and spaced little bumps on the other side that look more like rivets (in scale too) that the holes do. Nice job Rad...great tool. Pics to follow. The same process is used for the aluminum skin that I used on the D wing. The upper skin goes in, then the ribs will be formed and fitted (I hope) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 The printers aluminum has a nice patina which is very very similar to alclads somewhat translucent appearance. It isnt bright like aluminum foil and orders of magnitude tougher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 The appearance of the metal changes (as it should) depending on the viewing incidence. I just hope I can pull this off and get it to work. Attaching the ribs, I think, is going to be a tough job. The yellow lines on the wins are alignment marks. The wings will need to come apart in order to make the ribs and alignment of the upper and lower wing halves is critical, especially in the center well area which is so visible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Top side view of the upper wing and how the new skins meet in the center. The space between them is need to accept the center rib which forms the two well at their center boundary. It needs to be spot on in fit. Believe me when I say. The aluminum, for all its great points, is unforgiving when it comes to fit. Sanding isnt possible without destroying the finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Another magnificent build Geoff. Dying to see how that wheel well will come out. i really use printer's aluminum sheet extensively and like it although it is a bit bitchy to get plastic to stick to it. i do manage with superglue but the latter tends not to really stick to the aluminium and it is easy to lift off when you try to sand, cut, shape etc. You have to be a bit careful. But this is looking great too. What a show!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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