Ironwing Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share Posted September 20, 2008 Your wing solution is awesome. very cool to transfer the one kits fairing to the other! My nose filler operation will make you laugh, but I am determined to use that spinner you made me. Check it out on my Mantz thread, i added some pics last night. I can't find that cool pic of the Mustang cowling inflight by Christian, did a bunch of posts get lost when transfered to the B model thread ot what!? Chris... Chris, I dont think the cntours were on this site but Ill go back and look. Join the SIG, There is an entire discussion on the B nose with stations cross referenced to the FRL and overlays of both the D and B nose. Look in the "Mustang Tech" thread. You'l be glad you did. If i have an extra Hasegawa D nose would you want to use that rather than all the putty? Keep in touch Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris McMillin Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Oh Yeah, You guys did a fine job of motivating me back to action by the Mustang SIG and the increase in Mustang subjects. I downloaded the pic so I printed one for my shaping today. Check my thread for pics of the Rutman canopy on Revell and Hasagawa ships. You should be fine. Thanks, Chris... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Chris, I dont think the cntours were on this site but Ill go back and look. Join the SIG, There is an entire discussion on the B nose with stations cross referenced to the FRL and overlays of both the D and B nose. Look in the "Mustang Tech" thread. You'l be glad you did. If i have an extra Hasegawa D nose would you want to use that rather than all the putty? Keep in touch Geoff I thought you wanted one of those vac canopies? They will fit your conversion because you used the Hasegawa fuselage as a basis.You can get me at jrutman53@yahoo.com JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 Jerry, Thanks for responding. Email on the way... Many thanks, Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 Greetings All, Its been a while but while waiting on things to dry The B moved forward, mostly in the nose rework and the new ELE. The ele has been smoothed in and looks convincing. The nose took some doing to get it to the point its at. If you think the nose on the D is tricking, wait till you see this . I think I have this pretty close. I also know it looks odd but this is the way it should be. The aft end might need a bit more sanding to reduse the "hump" but this is the way it was. There is what appears to be a depression between the hump and the curve down into the nose. In reality, it's a flat spot just ahead of the point where the cowling begins its upward angle to the firewall which is higher than the D firewall; hence, the hump. Have a look. I know youve never seen this before. I know I had never seen it either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 Just above the center of the exhaust shroud opening is the "flat I mentioned. Just behind it the cowling begins to move upward to the firewall. There is a scale difference of about .012 inches. It doesnt sound like much but its very noticable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 The differences are a bit more obvious when placed side by side. The nose on the D will also need reshaping at its aft end. Its far to flat there. The new ELE grafted from the Revell B worked well and blends in nicely. It needed to be reinforced underneath at the point where it joins the wing fillet of the Hasegawa kit. This way of doing it saved alot of work in trying to rework the Hasegawa wing /fuselage ELE.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 You can see the crack where the two fillets meet. This needs to be reinforced on the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 The flat spot is visible behind the spinner as well as the radiusedsides.. Its a tricky shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 The wing rebuild is begun by gutting the wing and developing the main spar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 From the other side. Im going to try and do the wheel well details in aluminum with aluminum wing skins. We'll see what happens. That does it for the B for the time being. Hope you enjoy... Regards, Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Just above the center of the exhaust shroud opening is the "flat I mentioned. Just behind it the cowling begins to move upward to the firewall. There is a scale difference of about .012 inches. It doesnt sound like much but its very noticable. I'd almost say the flat appearance resembles the nose shape on the P51H, but then again not, ......you're doing a terrific job on the old girl, very interesting to follow your build, thanks for sharing. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Neat, thanks for the update Geoff. Lookin' good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Geoff, Not knowing about the trumpy kit, I think your "B" solution is great. Just accurate enough for me. I'm thinkin the cowl can be sanded to achieve the flat spot, and the wing/fuse match-up is good. The real bonus is that the kits are cheaply had, easy to find, and should stretch most peoples skill set, just a little. This type of build will be a little adventure for me, but I may try one after the Hawk. The revell 'pit is OK, w/ some added wiring, and plumbing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share Posted November 5, 2008 Geetings All, Thanks for looking in. Jack, Thanks for visiting. Im not at all familiar with the H nose. I do know however that the nose of the Mustang is most camelion like. Making the adjustment for the B, while not difficult, took a good deal of study and discussion over on the 51 SIG do get it down to something understandable. Ill also say that the nose variation of the B varies in its appearance. This seems to be caused, in large measure, to the level of fitting the assembly folks invested in the upper cowling parts. When you add to this the usual viewing angle issues, the shape becomes quite slippery. It's just the Mustang being the Mustang. Mike, Many thanks, the pleasure is all mine. Mike in Cal, Thanks for looking in. The nose, as it is, along with the ELE, is quite accurate. I dont think your idea of just sanding a flat into the cowling of the Hasegawa or the Revell kit will work. The Revell nose is way to slender and the Hasegawa nose is already flat - way too flat. As it is, even thought the Hasegawa nose is the best one on the market, it still needs work to make it right. The biggest problem being its flatness at the aft end where it meets the windscreen. I have loftings done by Bomarc (Mike) over on the 51 SIG which compare the contours of the B/D nose via an overlay technique. It shows the forward nose to be the same on the B and D. The curve of the nose on the D is constant and ends at the firewall. The flat on the B nose, when referenced to the FRL, is a bit lower. The real difference comes at the aft end of the upper cowling where the B cowl runs quite a bit higher. Ill try to post the loftings to give the membership a visual reference. I would suggest you not try to use the Hasegawa wing. The Revell wing is much better suited and accurate in overall shape and dimension. Using the forward wing root from the Revell fuselage will make life much easier if you want to do this conversion. Trying to use the Hasegawa wing will require completely rebuilding the inboard wing root as well as modifying the fuselage. It's a huge job -just my opinion. I havent really looked much at the Revell interior. I have found however, that most kit interiors suffer from dimension issues as well accuracy. If you like the interior, thats what matters. Just the same, thanks for looking in, I hope you try this conversion. Regards, Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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