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Butler

Hawker Typhoon - Revell 1:32

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I've not done much this evening, just a little work on the air intake/radiator.

 

I've used the centre part from the box, but the rest of the bits are home made. I've used course grade sandpaper to simulate the radiator grille which I think works quite well (although the flash has increased the contrast on the photo!).

 

The air intake tube is made from a section of propelling pencil I had kicking about:)

 

There's still a few bits to add to this before it gets glued back onto the fuselage

 

 

 

post-4669-1221516260.jpg

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Guest Rigor

looking good keep it up :o you will have this done in no time

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Butler, Absolutely wonderful work,The Typhoon has always been a favorite of mine and I've almost bought this kit a coupleof times wish I had now I'll sure grab the next one I see can't wait to see more of this build

;) Ed

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My camera battery has gone flat, but there's not much to show photo wise. I've put most of the fuselage bits and bobs together along with a cutout in the starboard wing to show the cannon. My plan is to keep the port side fairly intact so as to give a more complete look, with all the cutouts on the starboard side.

 

I'm going to have a go at rescribing the panel lines and reducing the 'cheese grater' effect of the rivets, although I haven't done this before :blink: Once this is complete i'll do the paint job, adding the cannon, engine etc later. The reason for this is because I like the scratch building part and want to 'pace' it through the build!

 

 

James

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Here's a couple of photos just to prove I haven't given up yet!

 

The fuselage stuck together with some attempts at scribing....

post-4669-1222193984.jpg

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And a quick pic of the ammo belt that I randomly decided to make to relieve the frustration of sanding and filling :angry:

 

 

This was a belt of a Revell Spitfire Mk22/24 kit that I bought by mistake a couple of months ago (I didn't realise this was a post-war plane and it looks really awkward with the 5 blade prop and long nose, I don't want to make it!)

 

Looking at my reference books (thanks Warwickshire libraries :lol:) the ammo looks way to short and maybe a touch too fat, so i've chopped off the front half and added my own extensions. I did consider filing the ends of the rounds, but in fact they don't look especially sharp in my reference photo.

 

I've found Brian Cauchi's Hispano reference pics, so i might try a little fiddling here (i've posted a question on that thread).

Brian's excellent Hispano walkround

 

 

post-4669-1222194474.jpg

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I've now decided to take a different tack on the surface preparation :P

 

Looking at the real plane, the surface isn't perfectly smooth like you get on the model - the metal skin is rippled where the rivets stress it onto the frame and the panels don't all line up perfectly. I've decided to try and reproduce this sort of look with a cladding of drink can aluminium.

 

This seems be easier than i first thought, its just a case of cutting the panels to shape and sticking them down with contact adhesive. They seem to take a nice rivet detail too, plus my weathering and stone chipping will look much more realsitic later in the build.

 

(ignore the panel with the rivets on - that isn't stuck down yet and is my test panel!)

 

post-4669-1222612386.jpg

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After a test run i've decided not to depict the rivets, but leave an indentation to show the stressed effect, a sort of 'cushion' look. I hope this pic shows what I mean!

 

post-4669-1222622787.jpg

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Wow, you are one gutsy modeller! I've seen the stressed skin effect replicated in plastic before (one of the best examples being Brian Criner's Zero in his Osprey Modelling book), but never have I seen anyone try your approach. I'm really interested to see how it turns out, but I have to say it looks slightly overdone in your photo. Or course that could easily just be the lighting.

 

Great work!

 

Kev

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Thanks for the comment :unsure:

 

The photo's actually quite accurate ;) :rolleyes: I did a few test runs and found that the lines need to be slightly overdone as the reflective surface multiplies the effect. Once this wing's finished i'll give it a primer coat and check it looks ok. If not, the panels can just be peeled off and used as templates for replacements. The time consuming part is getting the shapes right, but the best thing about contact adhesive is that it can be rolled right off the model again!

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Great work here Butler, you are doing a sensational job!

 

To add my 2 cents worth, I reckon the method you've used on the first pic which shows the riveted aluminium skin looks the most convincing. Would you consider doing that instead of just the indentations?

 

Anyway, whatever you decide on will look great with paint/chipping/weathering, so I should probably just shut my mouth :rolleyes:

 

Top stuff, can't wait to see more of this build.

 

Cheers

Ango

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That is some brilliant work you are doing. I love it. Wow what an effect. I posted an answer to your Hispano question. By the way, excellent work on the shells. This is just brilliant!

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Cheers guys :)

 

I've finished one wing and the front part of the fuselage. Here's a couple of pics, although it's almost impossible to take a decent image!

 

post-4669-1222811127.jpg

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And another...

 

This is a lot more entertaining than filling and sanding! I've got a Hawker Hurricane kit to make next which was in the same box as the Typhoon kit (did the seller know this i wonder?). I might think about using this technique to make a flak-damaged build with some nice peeling duraluminium on the wings. Hmmm.....

 

 

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