Jump to content
bdthoresen

Hans beat me to it... He-219A-7 Combat Models

Recommended Posts

Hello!

 

Very interesting thread (I've as well such a beast in the closet...). BTW, you may be interested to know that Jerry Rutman is selling a detail set (45$) that is far more useful than Roberts fantasy parts. This includes Resin Frontal Armour, Highly Detailed Cockpit With Photo Etch Details, Radar Antennae Bases, Props, Spinners, Cowlings, Wheels, And Landing Gear Details, Metal Landing Gear. Some parts need to be reworked a little bit but this is really a time saver set...

 

HTH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thor,

I'll back thierry up on jerry's detail set.Used it on my second 219 and it really helped as to the cockpit,engine front,wheels and tires and everything else one needs to spruce up the 219 that u'er doing.That way,u don't have to dig out items for what jerry's set has to offer.Larry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thor,

Looks like you have one heck of a project going there.I've built a number of vacuform kits over the years,mostly 1/48 WWI fighters and a load of the Airmodel 1/72 WWII German fighters. Only attempted a single 1/32 I.D. kit of the TA 152 which I thought came out just so so. i 'll be looking forward to seeing your progress with the Owl. Man that bird is huge!

Regards,

Gregory Jouette

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Thierry, Larry and Gregory......She is coming along. I have split one of the vertical stabilizers up and inserted some shims to correct the profile. Then I added a bit of Milliput to fill the contours. I am in the process of filing it to shape. Once I am done, I will, scratchbuild the rudder, and add my detail- I want to get the first one right, as I find it much easier to finish up the second one if I have something to go by!!! I will show some pics when I have something more to show. Thanks for the support guys-

 

Warm Regards-

 

THOR :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thor,

I think i can help u on some of the radar items and maybe on the front wheel and tire.For the main wheels and tires.AS i said in the first or second reply.Their all smooth types and need to be replaced.I still have some detail parts u can have if u want them and can i think do u some justice for the wheels also.But will have to check the luftwaffe stash.

The gear legs as to them being made of peuter can be modified using some plastic or aluminum tubing here.And one VERY important thing to remember as well.That some 48th scale resin wheels and tires can be used on any thing in 32nd as to the overall dia. of said german vac kits.Been there and done it several times.

But like i said.If u want what i have.It's u'ers for the asking and anything i can throw in here for the build.Larry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Larry and Cees-

 

Thanks for the replies. I have put inquiries in for the parts I need with Jerry Rutman, and Fotocut Fred for some things. I hope the sets are still available. Larry, I will gladly take anything you might want to throw in. I am still working on the tailplanes, as they seem to be most out of whack. I also am in the process of working on building a DB-603 engine as well. Not sure if I will use it, but, if it turns out as well as I hope, I will.

 

Now, a question. I traced around the parts with a black Sharpie, and removed them from the backing sheet. Now, I have always been a bit confused on the proper way to flat sand the parts. Does one sand the parts until the small sliver of white plastic below the marker line dissappears? Or does one sand until the marker line dissappears? I am so confused!!!!!!!!

 

I am finding that sanding the fuselage and wings are difficult to sand true, even on a flat surface. I am going to hold off on them until I can find out if I can still get Jerry's set...that will help in determining the right size to sand everything down to.

 

I am not happy with canopy at this point either- I might make a plaster moldplug on the kit canopy, and vac a new one from better plastic........

 

This is a huge undertaking. I am pretty sure I will not finish it in time, but, then again it will probably be due to my slow building more than anything else.

 

What the heeeeeelllll did I get myself into here????? :lol:

 

Oh well- Back to hacking!!!!

 

THOR :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thor,

As to sanding the wings and tailplane,fins and the fuselage on a flat surface.Yes,But one can also glue a sheet of automotive sandpaper to a small piece of say basswood for fie sander a part as to the sheet on a piece of wood or scrap lumber.Use 80 grit dry for the big areas as wings and etc. in the above mentioned.

And the small sanding board for the smaller parts.There will be openings here and there and that where the gap filling super glue and hardener comes in for that.And for those hard place u mention.Again the gap filling super glue.There will be at times that u'll use more,but that's the deal of filling ALL the holes and gaps.

And there at times that i have even hand sanded parts for their final shape as to gluing them in place.I wish i could give u more info.But it's going to be a trail and error here.But so far u have the cutting of the parts from the carrier sheet in hand.But let me know if u need anything else.And i'm following u'er progress.Larry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thor,

Went over u'er posting again and saw where as to the line u said after cutting the parts from the sheet.It's the line as to when the sheet is pulled from the male castings.It's like a borderline of sorts.U need to go just above that line and u'll see as to the leading edge and to sanding down to that line.And remember that if u go past it and then when u dry fit the parts.That there maybe some gaps and wavey areas.That too can be done as to gluing a thin strip of plastic along this area and glue it to the inside glue wise and let the glue run down on the inside of the wings and shoot the hardener down there as to the glue.That will dry and setup very fast.

But the rule of thumb here is to do it slow as to not letting the glue run out at the wintip and on u'er leg and u don't want that to happen as to using the hardener.It will burn u really good.Been there and done that as well.

And i should have mentioned as to the small sanding board u need for fine tuning the parts.Use a piece of balsawood about three inches square.And glue a piece of sandpaper to it with elmer glue.It comes in handy like a sanding stick.U might want to make a few small ones as well for more detailed sanding as well.They do come in handy.

And remember this also as to sanding the wings of excess carrier sheet on the edges for all the parts.Do not over sand them as to the gull wing being inverted.Check u'er plans as to seeing what i'm talking about and this will give u a better fit all around.Larry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im watching this thread with a great amount of interest. I too have one of these kits lurking in the wings. I also bought the Rutman set. I'll see if I can dig it out and photograph it for you.

 

Im cutting and pasting these posts to a log which I wll print out and put in with the model for future reference.

 

Keep going, Its looking very interesting so far.

 

Sabre

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I too have the Rutman update for this kit, but the resin seems to be breaking down with regards to the resin- It is now coated with an oily film, that wasn't there when I bought the set several years ago. Anyone here a Chemist that can explain this??

 

Lee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could have been improperly mixed, just a bad batch, or exposed to too much heat over time. Used to be in the jewelry manufacturing business, working with both rubber and latex molds, and saw quite a few of the latex ones literally melt over time. I figured it was from being stored in conditions that were too warm and humid.

 

Your resin pieces are now going to be more brittle than even normal resin is so be extra careful when handling them. There isn't any way to reverse or repair the chemical process going on so rather than risk wasting the time to incorporate the parts in your build just to have them further deteriorate and ruin it, you'd be better off not using the affected parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are some photos of the Rutman set for the He-219. I've left the pics as large as they came out of the camera so you can see what you are getting.

 

The pile of tiny brass rods on the lower right side are for the Antenna. The bases of these are cast white metal. As for the quality of the castings they are pretty much free of bubbles, mold seams or any thing else. The resin in my case (I've had this set for over 2 years now) is solid, no oily residue or flacking. The only flacking is from the waste material which is very thin, and easy to remove.

 

Looking at the instructions, it appears there might be two pages, as part of it appears cut off. In that case I am missing one sheet, and will have to contact Jerry about it. I'd say anyone building the combat model should run, not walk to the post office and send the coin to Jerry. I also have a set for the DO-335, and the Ju-88 which are both every bit as good. Excellent value.

 

Anyway, on to the pics.

 

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n121/ne...07-0778_IMG.jpg

 

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n121/ne...07-0777_IMG.jpg

 

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n121/ne...07-0776_IMG.jpg

 

 

 

Hope this helps everyone.

 

Sabre

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmmmm. I just noticed that while Roberts gives you an cooling face to put into the nacelles, Rutmans cowling does not have any thing there. That bit will need to scratch built.

 

Sabre

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×