White Glue...

[theseeker]

I see alot of refrences to using white glue. Which white glue do you guys use?

[oletcherfred]

I use WELDBOND brand, which looks, smells, and cleans up like the cheapie-do stuff, but actually works. The difference is amazing.

 

For porous surfaces like wood, you dilute a bit of it(I keep two or more bottles around, with different dilutuions), "prime" the surfaces, let dry overnight, and then glue normally.

 

For non-porous things, use like any other glue - apply sparingly, clamp, let dry overnight. It will actually glue metal to glass, or most any other combination.

 

As a temporary "holder," use it like any other white glue.

 

Not for vinyl. There are special adhesives for that.

 

When you find this is any good hardware store, be sure to get the instruction brochure, which tells all. It's a fold-out thing, about six pages. Small size - look around.

 

Fantastic stuff.

 

Pricey - two to five time the cost of the cheap stuff, but it goes so far that the cost is a secondary consideration.

 

I use it for many, many things. Some pieces of wood I glued in 1980(yes, almost 30 years ago) is still stuck permanently after all that time in a damp basement!

 

Happy Modeling!

[CPNGROATS]

White Glue = "Elmers" in the Cpn's workshop...

 

 

Cheers,

ggc

[D Bellis]

It depends.

 

Elmer's dries hard and adheres very well. Great for filling canopy gaps or creating small windows, and can be masked over without ripping it off when removing the masks.

 

Formula 560 from Pacer and Micro Krystal Kleer both have the same application properties as Elmers, but both remain flexible when dry. Ok for attaching canopies, but no good if you'll be masking over any exposed glue.

 

HTH,

D

[Juggernut]

I use a glue called "Tacky Glue" it's readily available in craft stores and dries flexible. It's great for attaching canopy's and such to an aircraft for painting and stays put because of the flexibility.

 

HTH

 

Tim

[johng]

I use Testors Clear Parts Cement to glue canopies and other parts where CA or plastic cement isn't appropriate. The container has a built in fine tipped applicator that will put the cement anywhere you want it very neatly. It does stay flexible when dry but it dries clearer than Elmers.

[theseeker]

I understand the use for a canopy, but I have read other sites and numerous books and many modelers use it for just about everything. BTW, thanks for the replies!

[D Bellis]

...and many modelers use it for just about everything.

Maybe with no thought whatsoever about the longevity of the model. With white glue the parts are just lightly stuck together. One sharp impact and the whole works would fall to pieces.

 

Not for me.

D

[oletcherfred]

Maybe with no thought whatsoever about the longevity of the model. With white glue the parts are just lightly stuck together. One sharp impact and the whole works would fall to pieces.

 

Not for me.

D

 

 

Not so with Weldbond... I have plenty of things I assembled/repaired over the last 20-some years, and have by now forgotten which. I did run into one case - a hand-carved pipe I fixed in the 1980's. Took it in to a service to get a new stem(which hadn't broken, was just lost at Steamtown), and he polished 'er up and commented that "this has been repaired."

 

I replied, "No, I don't think so..." but he showed me - and it was the ol' repair job I did 'way back when. This pipe was subject to a fair amount of abuse in the meantime(say, 15 - 18 years) and I had forgotten it was repaired.

 

'Zat good enough?

 

Happy not-so-temporary modeling!

 

BTW, I am on my third container of it - I use the other two for storing the dilutes.

[Gary]

I have to second the vote for Weldbond. I use it for almost anything other than gluing plastic. Thin it or use it full strength, depending on what you want to do. It fills small seams, tacks parts in place, attaches stretched sprue rigging, forms small "lumps and bumps" on airframes, and the list goes on. More expensive than ordinary white glue, but not by much, and its usefulness more than makes up for the price difference. Hope this helps, and have a Great New Year!

 

GB

[CPNGROATS]

White Glue...sometimes I use it for attaching canopies and other clear parts, but I have started using a clear glue designed for s=attaching watch crystels. Another use for w/g is seam filling..applied with a toothpick or paint brush. Of course it works fine for temporary attachment of parts...and it works well for the making of scenic diorama bases or the attahment of wood to plastic etc.

 

HTH,

Cheers,

ggc

[johng]

Watch crystal cement, the stuff I've used anyway, isn't much different from regular styrene glue. Advantage for modelers is that it comes in tubes with a long, fine applicator tip. You have to be careful how you use it with clear styrene parts.

[D Bellis]

I did run into one case - a hand-carved pipe I fixed in the 1980's.

Hand carved from PLASTIC? Don't smoke from that one, you'll die.

 

White glue is fine as a structural cement for anything porous. Plastic is not porous.

 

D

[mightymax]

I use Elmers regular and Elmers Craftbond. I also have used Aeelenes Tacky Glue.

I have used the Elmers for everything from attaching canopies to filling wingroot seams.

 

Max B.