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ironman1945

1/32 Trumpeter P-38

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Big Kev: I cut the tubing one of 2 ways; with aK&S tube cutter (available at any good hobby store) and with a sharp x-acto blade.

 

You can get other tube cutters at hardware stores or home DIY stores, but as far as I know no one else but K & S makes them in the size to cut small diameter tubing that we use. You role the tube cutter around the tubing, tightening the knob (and therebye pressing the blade into the tube) after each pass. When using an x-acto blade, make sure the blade is sharp, and roll it slowly back and forth across the tubing. Regardless of which method, you must be careful not to apply too much pressure or you will deform the shape of the tubing. As well I "nick' the tubing with a small file around the outside; it helps the blade stays in the same location.

 

Thanks Dave. I've tried the xacto blade technique before, but the tubing I used was quite thick-walled and I just ended up ruining the blade. I'm pretty sure it was K&S brand tubing, but can't guarantee it. There was no way I was ever going to crush it with a puny xacto blade! As someone else asked, where do you get the kind of thin-walled tubing that can be cut so easily? I usually take what I can get as it seems pretty hard to find around these parts, so maybe I just have to work with what I've got.

 

Kev

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Guys

 

Glad that you have found my description to be of some use; I wasnt sure if I was being clear enough.

 

For Dave Pratt and Big Kev: I get my brass tubing at the local hobby shop here in Victoria; its K & S brand, same brand as my tube cutter. Dave I am pretty sure I have seen it at some of the shops in Vancouver, I am thinking specifically of the shop near the Bonsar Rec Center (where the annual Vancouver Hobby show is held).. sorry the name escapes me. Big Kev, the tubing I have usually cuts within 10 passes of the blade so I imagine its a lot thinner then what your using, though I am confident that a tube cutter would still do the job.

 

I believe K & S is usually associated with model railroading; if you call model railroad shops they should carry it. Try this link to K & S.

 

http://www.ksmetals.com/default.asp

 

I'm thinking if you drop them a line, they should be able to tell you where the closest dealer is that carries thier products.

 

Let me know how your search turns out.

 

One thing I forgot, if you want to cut small diameter brass rod, use the same technique with an x-acto knife, but after 10 or so passes, you can snap off the rod at the cutting point with a pair of pliers, filing down the end to even it out.

 

Take care and have a great weekend!

 

Dave/Ironman1945

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post-1043-1195340624.jpgHi DAve,

 

I've been building this model for quite some time. I'm hoping to have some pictures to post of in progress work soon. But I wanted to give you a heads up on this kit. The most serious issue to watch for is the alignment of the booms with the center section. Specifically the vertical stabilizers are canted outward when attched to the center section. I haven't glued mine together yet but it appears that this can be corrected with a shim between the boom and the inner lower wing. However, trial fit this when you get to that point.

 

Also, Unless you're going to show the engines , don't worry about painting any of that area. The only visible parts are through the front cowl under the spinner and the little doors just aft of this opening.

 

A couple of other things I noticed, the superchargers need to be modified as the front scoop, which is a tube on the real aircraft, is represented by a vertical bar on the model. The Radiator openings on the aft section of the booms are see through so put in a blanking plate. Throw the props away, (they're horribly wrong in shape) and invest in the Rutman set or the Contact Resine set. Mine will be depicted in flight so the props are not an issue with me. The little circular clear piece on the inner side of the front booms needs to be filled in and painted over.

 

As for your conversion, be aware that the panels on the underside of the outer wings(where you will have to locate the landing light) are smaller on the J version than those depicted on the model. And don't forget the landing light on the leading edge of the wing will have to go away.

 

Looking forward to seeing work on your kit on the forum. I will try and get some pictures of mine as soon as possible.

 

BTW, which markings are you doing your plane in? I'm doing Mama'a Boy of 55th FG in England.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl Smoot

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Carl

 

Thanks for the info, it supports the earlier research I have done on this kit.

 

The landing light of course needs to be dealt with, but I'm not sure how far I will go with everything else. My original intent was to make this strictly out-of-the-box as a tonic for the years I spent scratchbuilding the Whirlwind, but then I decided to back-date it, then I recieved the "Big Ed" set as a gift so of course I have to use that....I'll see how it goes.

 

Markings will be as mentioned inmy first post, a P-38J-15-LO to represent "Happy Jack's Go Buggy"

 

 

Looking forward to seeing pics of your efforts.

 

Dave/Ironman1945

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Hi Dave,

 

The build looks good so far. I can't wait to see it completed as I had the great fortune of meeting Jack Ilfrey and getting him to sign a limited edition print of his aircraft. This now hangs in my dining room along with a couple of others.

 

Bob A

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Thanks Dave. I've tried the xacto blade technique before, but the tubing I used was quite thick-walled and I just ended up ruining the blade. I'm pretty sure it was K&S brand tubing, but can't guarantee it. There was no way I was ever going to crush it with a puny xacto blade! As someone else asked, where do you get the kind of thin-walled tubing that can be cut so easily? I usually take what I can get as it seems pretty hard to find around these parts, so maybe I just have to work with what I've got.

 

Kev

 

A variety of tube cutting jigs, along with jewelers saws and the finer saw blades, can be had from Rio Grande Jewelry Supply and other outfits who specialize in the jewelry trade. I am involved in gold and silver smithing in addition to scale modeling and regularly use my "jewelry" tools for both. Typically, these places also carry brass and aluminum tubing (as well as other metals) in very useful sizes. Check for suppliers in your area. Regards, BB.

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Hope everyone is enjoying the holidays! A quick update. Getting close to finisihing the port and stbd wheel bays... AMS took over at some point, what with building the landing gear.

 

Here is a shot of the finished landing gear, compared with the cast metal ones from Scale Aircraft Conversions and the kit supplied items, and a shot of the starboard gear as it should look installed in the wheel bay. I have added hydralic and electrical lines, amongst some other things.

 

I ended up modifying the kit torque links; they dont look anyting like those in reference photos. The metal ones from SAC are better looking , but I believe they are set at the wrong angle for an aircraft on the ground. Will post some photos later this week.

 

Take care and have a Happy New Year!

 

 

Dave/Ironman1945

post-562-1198872087.jpg

post-562-1198872350.jpg

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Hope everyone is enjoying the holidays! A quick update. Getting close to finisihing the port and stbd wheel bays... AMS took over at some point, what with building the landing gear.

 

Here is a shot of the finished landing gear, compared with the cast metal ones from Scale Aircraft Conversions and the kit supplied items, and a shot of the starboard gear as it should look installed in the wheel bay. I have added hydralic and electrical lines, amongst some other things.

 

I ended up modifying the kit torque links; they dont look anyting like those in reference photos. The metal ones from SAC are better looking , but I believe they are set at the wrong angle for an aircraft on the ground. Will post some photos later this week.

 

Take care and have a Happy New Year!

Dave/Ironman1945

 

 

Aren't those landing gear bays a joy!!!. I got a serious case of AMS when I was working on them. It took me nearly a year to get both done, primarily because I kept losing interst. I see you took a stab at replicating the hydraulic lines. I had a particularly difficult time with that and they didn't turn out nearly as nice as I had hoped. The funny part is that most of this will be unviewable once the model is finished(on my model that is) because of the way it will be mounted. Oh well. Nice job Dave and keep up the good work. I hope to have something to post on mine soon.

 

Carl Smoot

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Hi everyone. Hope all is well! I've finally managed to find a bit more time to spend on the Lighting.

 

Carl, I believe you mentioned somewhere in your P-38 build that when the booms are attached to the wings, the vertical stabilizers seem to be angled out. I thought that was the case in Tom Cleavers build on Modelling Madness, but then thought perhaps it was just the angle the picture was taken at, or that perhaps I was just imagining it.

 

I think the problem lies in the fact that the wing itself isnt rigid enough. Trumpeter did add rigidity to the assembly with internal strengthing ribs between the nacelle sections and the cockpit tub, but it really needs it just outboard of each nacelle section. I experimented with this while the booms were taped to the wing, and I believe straighting the wing will solve the problem. So here is my solution, I epoxied a brass I beam underneath the top wing section, running from just outside the cockpit pod to the other side of the nacelle.

post-562-1203235892.jpg

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Here is what the wing looks like with the port side braced and the stbd side left in its original state. The wing should be in one straight line from the cockpit tub to the wingtip; this is not the case on the stbd side.

post-562-1203236042.jpg

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I've experimented with taping the nacelles on after epoxying the beam in on the port side, and it seems to me to be a good solution. Only way to find out is to put everything together!

 

I've also just about finished the cockpit, its a mix of Eduard pre-painted photoetch and Verlinden resin.

 

Take care everyone and happy modelling!

 

Dave/Ironman1945

post-562-1203236551.jpg

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David, you're doing a good job on the P38.

Had the same solution for the dihedral of the wing, but didn't use a brass beam but just a polistyrene, and on the rudder subject i adjusted their position by carefully heating and bending.

All in all it turned out fine, the only real gap eventually was the bottom connection on wing/fuselage joint near one of the booms, which also could be solved by inserting plastic strips and blending it in.

I didn't use the trump propblades however, the revell ones looked much better and they fit perfectly with the trump spinners.

 

J.

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I've experimented with taping the nacelles on after epoxying the beam in on the port side, and it seems to me to be a good solution. Only way to find out is to put everything together!

 

I've also just about finished the cockpit, its a mix of Eduard pre-painted photoetch and Verlinden resin.

 

Take care everyone and happy modelling!

 

Dave/Ironman1945

 

Dave,

Just a word of caution. You probably know this but I will chime in for those that do not. The Eduard pre-painted PE looks great although it needs to be weatherd. However, the self adhesive does not stick that well, at least in the two cockpits I have built. A touch of glue will go a long way. Just my 2 cents. BTW, very nice build!

Rocky

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