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LSP_Kevin

Revell Zero Rebuild

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Kev, I just ordered some pe from eduard, and their shipping charges are set in stone. I ordered 60.00 $$ of PE (on sale) and S&H is 29$$US. Next time I'll save my pennies, and order bigger.

 

Thanks for that info Mike. I found a local(ish) supplier a couple of days ago who can send me the IJN seatbelt set for 55 cents S&H! They just send stuff as standard mail, and most PE will fit in a standard envelope, so I think I'll order that one. I also vaguely remember seeing some resin wheel sets somewhere but can't find them anymore.

 

 

Hi BigKev,

 

I think I can help with some documentation for your built, just give me your e mail address so I can contact you off line and I'll see what I can do

Cheers,

 

loic

 

Thanks Loic, PM sent.

 

Kev

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OK, some actual modelling progress at last! I've sanded off all the rivets and separated all the control surfaces:

 

post-3071-1242516527.jpg

 

I thinned the wing trailing edges and will be attempting to construct flaps and ailerons for the first time ever. I've got some good photos of that area so I think I'll just glue those to the model. :huh:

 

Unfortunately I made a hash of removing the moulded-in wheel wells, which were way too shallow:

 

post-3071-1242516584.jpg

 

I think I can still make it all work, but I have to confess that I have no idea how to go about making new wheel wells. :blink: Any suggestions? (I know, shoulda thunked about that before cutting 'em out!)

 

Next step is to begin the rescribing work. This should be easier now than it was on the Dora, as I've since acquired some better tools, some decent templates, and most of all, more experience!

 

Kev

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Kev,

Making wheel wells is pretty much straight forward as to what i do with my vac stuff.If u have the hasegawa P-51 kit or for that matter any kit that has sunken wheel wells.Take a look at them and just follow the way their molded into place.Then if u have some sheet plastic,then u would cut out some strips and make sure they follow the contours of the wing,so the wing will fit properly when u get ready to glue them into place.

I do this all the time,or another idea is to make them a drop in type of wheel well as to the outline of the well.Just lay a piece of sheet or to make a template under the wing and trace the outline of the well.That way u can transfer the outline to some sheet and make the bottom of the well and that way.U can again use sheet to make the side walls of the well and other areas of the well.

And then for the final deal as to detailing the well as to adding plumbing and etc. to them.These are the only three i can think of unless u find a trashed hasegawa kit and use the wells out of it.And before i wrote this reply i check my parts box of zros items and did not have the hase parts at all.Or u would have gotten them in the mail from me.Larry

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Kev,

Making wheel wells is pretty much straight forward as to what i do with my vac stuff.If u have the hasegawa P-51 kit or for that matter any kit that has sunken wheel wells.Take a look at them and just follow the way their molded into place.Then if u have some sheet plastic,then u would cut out some strips and make sure they follow the contours of the wing,so the wing will fit properly when u get ready to glue them into place.

I do this all the time,or another idea is to make them a drop in type of wheel well as to the outline of the well.Just lay a piece of sheet or to make a template under the wing and trace the outline of the well.That way u can transfer the outline to some sheet and make the bottom of the well and that way.U can again use sheet to make the side walls of the well and other areas of the well.

And then for the final deal as to detailing the well as to adding plumbing and etc. to them.These are the only three i can think of unless u find a trashed hasegawa kit and use the wells out of it.And before i wrote this reply i check my parts box of zros items and did not have the hase parts at all.Or u would have gotten them in the mail from me.Larry

 

Thanks Larry. I guess I'll have to stare at some photos for a while and see which method makes the most sense. If I screw up the wheel wells then I guess I'll have screwed up the model, so I'm keen to get them at least passable.

 

Kev

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Way to go with the re-build Kev.

 

Glad to see someone else is prepared to try and re-animate a pre-loved kit.

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Kev,

Just thought of another way to do the wells and this sould be easier for u.Make the wells as a long rectangle and just glue them into place.That way u cover everything as to doing them as to what i told u before.It works out well and u won't have to do all that cutting a gluing as to the shape of them.Either way there is no way to crew them up.Larry

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Hey Kev,

 

I just remembered that I bought a CMK resin set for my Zero and used almost none of it. It includes the landing gear bays.... I'd be happy to send the whole kit your way if you'd like. I've no idea of those bays will fit the Revell wings but it couldn't hurt to try them.

 

Let me know....

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Hey Kev,

 

I just remembered that I bought a CMK resin set for my Zero and used almost none of it. It includes the landing gear bays.... I'd be happy to send the whole kit your way if you'd like. I've no idea of those bays will fit the Revell wings but it couldn't hurt to try them.

 

Let me know....

 

 

Thanks Dave, PM sent!

 

Meanwhile, rescribing continues...

 

Kev

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As most of us know, rescribing is a lengthy, tedious and laborious process. I'm doing this one in stages, and have nearly completed the top of the starboard wing:

 

starboard_top_rescribed_small.jpg

 

It's not completely accurate according to the drawings I'm using, but reasonably representative, which is all I'm really after. The shiny streaks are liquid cement brushed along the newly-scribed lines in order to clean up the 'swarf'. The yet-to-be-done port wing is shown for comparison.

 

I'm happy to describe the process in more detail if anyone's interested, but I suspect that would be nearly as tedious as the task itself. :lol:

 

Kev

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Another update, but nothing too exciting unless you're a fan of rescribing (one of the world's great spectator sports). I've finished most of it bar the cowling, the hinges for which I have no idea how to accomplish yet.

 

scribing_finished_small.jpg

 

I've come to mistrust the drawings in the AJ-Press Modelmania book however (an enlargement of which you can see in the photo above). The dimensions are not consistent across the various views shown. For example, the length of the cowling is different in the side profiles from what it is in the plan views! And not by just a tiny bit either - 3mm in 1/32, or nearly 10cm on the real thing. Also, some of them don't really agree with photos in the same volume. They're still a useful guide though, and better than me trying to use photos alone.

 

I made a backplate for the spinner from plastic card:

 

spinner_backplate_small.jpg

 

My stupid camera has focussed everywhere except the area I tried to photograph. Stupid camera. :lol:

 

The kit spinner looks too blunt to me, but I'm not certain. Any Zero experts out there care to comment?

 

I've hacked away the rear portion of the headrest and will replace it with plastic card drilled out with lightening holes. It's a real mess at the moment (the kit's plastic is really thick):

 

hacked_headrest_small.jpg

 

I need to start working on the cockpit next, but I have no idea how to approach it really. I understand that the Zero cockpit was akin to a cage inserted into the fuselage, but will I get away with simply adding detail to the sidewalls instead? Anything's gotta be an improvement over the non-existent kit detail I guess. This is all new territory for me, so please forgive the newbie questions.

 

Kev

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I thought I might provide a quick update on how my attempts at scratchbuilding are coming along: woeful!

 

Here's the evidence:

 

scratch_started_small.jpg

 

This photos shows, left to right, the kit seat; my attempt to build a better one out of drink can aluminium; and the beginnings of the rear cockpit bulkhead.

 

I'm happy enough with the bulkhead, but the seat's a disaster. Am I better off sticking to sheet styrene for that? I like the strength and thinness of the aluminium, plus it curves nicely for the seat back. But cutting, shaping and gluing it are proving to be real hassles. I'm also having trouble coming up with a decent template for the seat. :P Time for one of our local scratchbuilding wiz's to step in here with some advice I think. :D

 

Oh well, back to the drawing board!

 

Kev

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I always use 0.25mm styrene for seats. I curves pretty easily and you can just use (very small amounts of) styrene cement.

In this instance I would make the seat from three pieces; two sides and a single piece for the back rest and seat. I would drill the holes before cutting out the rear section.

Be prepared to stuff a few up before you get something respectable.

The kit part looks like it could be ficticious so don't copy it.

Good luck.

 

The bulkhead looks great.

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I always use 0.25mm styrene for seats. I curves pretty easily and you can just use (very small amounts of) styrene cement.

In this instance I would make the seat from three pieces; two sides and a single piece for the back rest and seat. I would drill the holes before cutting out the rear section.

Be prepared to stuff a few up before you get something respectable.

The kit part looks like it could be ficticious so don't copy it.

Good luck.

 

The bulkhead looks great.

 

Thanks Allok. You're right about the kit seat - purely fictional. The look of the seat on late model Zeros is pretty well-known, and the seat itself is pretty obvious in the cockpit, so I'm keen to get it looking the part. I used the kit part to determine the rough dimensions, and then a combination of photos and drawings (including those in the instructions for the Tamiya kit) for the specifics. The shape is way off, so here's hoping I get closer with the second go.

 

Kev

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Guest canuck63

Big Kev.....change your name into GREAT Kev...you're a brave modeler...sure much braver than yours truly..I'd have never resurrected such an old build,so hats off to you!I think I can help you with a few spares from a Tamiya Zeke and a resin seat from CMK...I could send you the wheel wells from the CMK deatailing set as well...they're surely better than the Revell ones..ditto for the weighted wheels!Just PM your address and I'll send you a few goodies that you'll put to good use...and while I'm at it I'll send you all the resin parts I haven't used,this way you'll see for yourself what you need and what you don't!I'm EAGER to see the finished model,and I MEAN THAT!

Respectfully

Manny

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Big Kev.....change your name into GREAT Kev...you're a brave modeler...sure much braver than yours truly..I'd have never resurrected such an old build,so hats off to you!I think I can help you with a few spares from a Tamiya Zeke and a resin seat from CMK...I could send you the wheel wells from the CMK deatailing set as well...they're surely better than the Revell ones..ditto for the weighted wheels!Just PM your address and I'll send you a few goodies that you'll put to good use...and while I'm at it I'll send you all the resin parts I haven't used,this way you'll see for yourself what you need and what you don't!I'm EAGER to see the finished model,and I MEAN THAT!

Respectfully

Manny

 

Thanks Manny! PM sent.

 

Kev

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