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Revell Zero Rebuild


LSP_Kevin

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Against all commonsense and logic, I've decided for my next project to rebuild an old Revell Zero I had in the cabinet:

 

post-3071-1242516174.jpg

 

I built this kit at least 15 years ago to a pretty ordinary standard. My motivation for rebuilding is really to give myself a chance to experiment with scratchbuilding some details (something I haven't really done much of before), and to experiment with finishing techniques, all without risking a decent kit. Other than that, it's probably a pretty stupid idea! Originally I had just intended to repaint it, but while removing empennage and the like to prepare for paint stripping, it practically fell apart, so I finished the job, though not without some damage:

 

post-3071-1268134858.jpg

 

The paint came off easily enough (IIRC, it was a mixture of Humbrol and Tamiya acrylics), but the decals wouldn't budge, and in the end I had to resort to liberal coats of nail polish remover and vigorous scrubbing. Here's what it looks like now:

 

8KELuM.jpg

 

Wish me luck!

 

Kev

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A further note: due to getting some actual hard currency as a birthday gift recently, I was able to get hold of the following reference, which is brilliant:

 

f86156eb4c9e9f2a2130b8a739e3

 

The image is linked to the AJ-Press page for more info, but it comes with decals for a 1/48th scale Zero, and a blow-by-blow build of the Tamiya 1/32 kit. It was a toss-up between this and the Osprey modelling book by Brian Criner, which also looked pretty good.

 

RookieLSP kindly sent me the instructions and leftover decals from his recent build of the Tamiya kit, and I was able to get hold of the Hobbydecal Zero stencils through their generous offer to LSP members:

 

st32011v1_b.jpg

 

If anyone has any suggestions for aftermarket stuff that will make my life easier, I'm happy to hear them. Largely though, I plan to do most of the work from scratch.

 

Kev

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If anyone has any suggestions for aftermarket stuff that will make my life easier, I'm happy to hear them. Largely though, I plan to do most of the work from scratch.

 

I'm slowly working my way through each of the Eduard PE sets for the Tamiya A6M5. If you're going to go to town on with this rebuild I'd imagine the whole set would be a pretty helpful resource.

 

A further note: due to getting some actual hard currency as a birthday gift recently, I was able to get hold of the following reference...

 

Looks like a great book. Does it have any photos or diagrams showing how the piping and cabling coming forward from the firewall connected to the engine? Or how the oil cooler was hooked up?

 

Good luck!

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If anyone has any suggestions for aftermarket stuff that will make my life easier, I'm happy to hear them. Largely though, I plan to do most of the work from scratch.

 

I'm slowly working my way through each of the Eduard PE sets for the Tamiya A6M5. If you're going to go to town on with this rebuild I'd imagine the whole set would be a pretty helpful resource.

 

A further note: due to getting some actual hard currency as a birthday gift recently, I was able to get hold of the following reference...

 

Looks like a great book. Does it have any photos or diagrams showing how the piping and cabling coming forward from the firewall connected to the engine? Or how the oil cooler was hooked up?

 

Good luck!

 

I haven't had a chance to look through it properly yet, but I'll keep your question in mind and have a look for you (and me!) soon. I got my copy from Hylands in Melbourne, which, if you're an Aussie (Koala? just maybe?), has to be just about the best military bookshop in the country (it would probably rival the best military bookshops in the world I'd imagine).

 

Not sure I can afford the Eduard PE though, at least, not too many of them anyway. Which would you recommend as being the most vital or useful?

 

Kev

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Kev. Use the link that Rookie has posted to go the the Eduard website. The wonderful thing about the site is that they offer the complete instructions to their PE sets for free download (PDF format). I'm not sure that I agree with Rookie, who I know has also completed an A6M5 build recently. Check it out for yourself. I'd be surprised if the PDF's alone are not a help to you - at least in considering what you might want to do with your build.

 

Yep, I am an Aussie, from Wollongong. But I'm also flat broke right now so unfortunately cannot aquire such gems as the one you've got. But if ya want to do a battler a favour, PM me if you find any good shots re. what I mentioned.

 

Cheers.

 

K

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Kev. Use the link that Rookie has posted to go the the Eduard website. The wonderful thing about the site is that they offer the complete instructions to their PE sets for free download (PDF format). I'm not sure that I agree with Rookie, who I know has also completed an A6M5 build recently. Check it out for yourself. I'd be surprised if the PDF's alone are not a help to you - at least in considering what you might want to do with your build.

 

Yep, I am an Aussie, from Wollongong. But I'm also flat broke right now so unfortunately cannot aquire such gems as the one you've got. But if ya want to do a battler a favour, PM me if you find any good shots re. what I mentioned.

 

Cheers.

 

K

 

I certainly know what you mean about being flat broke mate - if it wasn't for a tiny birthday windfall I would've struggled to get it myself. I'll definitely check out those PDFs though, as I think I'll need all the help I can get! I'm not really sure even where to start with it at the moment, so I think I just need to read the book now that I've got it, and try to get a better idea of what I need to do.

 

Kev

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...I'm not really sure even where to start with it at the moment...

Kev

 

Kev, a couple of suggestions for what they're worth.

 

- Decide on the plane you wish to depict, then find out for certain if its a Nakajima or Mitsubishi build. This impacts pretty dramatically on correct colours. For instance, the two manufacturers had slightly different cockpit colours; Nakajima painted certain steel parts within the cockpit black but Mitsubishi didn't; Mitsubishi wheel wells and gear doors were all the underside green/ash/grey but Nakajima gear doors (inside) had the Aeotaki laquer finish; and, the demarkation lines between topside and lower camo colours were different etc etc.

 

- If you haven't already, trawl through the J-Aircraft website. Check the article by Ryan Toews on enhancing the Tamiya kit and search on his name in the Navy planes forum. Don't forget to check out their walkarounds section. Its the best source of Zero images on the net that I've found.

 

Happy modelling!

 

 

PS. I recently realised that after heaps of agonising over how to mix up a "correct" underside green/ash/grey colour that Tamiya released a bloody fine match to go with the A6M2 - XF76 - straight from the jar! Oh yeah, also I found out after even more agonising that Tamiya XF71 is a very passable match for the Mitsubishi cockpit colour.

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Kev, a couple of suggestions for what they're worth.

 

- Decide on the plane you wish to depict, then find out for certain if its a Nakajima or Mitsubishi build. This impacts pretty dramatically on correct colours. For instance, the two manufacturers had slightly different cockpit colours; Nakajima painted certain steel parts within the cockpit black but Mitsubishi didn't; Mitsubishi wheel wells and gear doors were all the underside green/ash/grey but Nakajima gear doors (inside) had the Aeotaki laquer finish; and, the demarkation lines between topside and lower camo colours were different etc etc.

 

- If you haven't already, trawl through the J-Aircraft website. Check the article by Ryan Toews on enhancing the Tamiya kit and search on his name in the Navy planes forum. Don't forget to check out their walkarounds section. Its the best source of Zero images on the net that I've found.

 

Happy modelling!

PS. I recently realised that after heaps of agonising over how to mix up a "correct" underside green/ash/grey colour that Tamiya released a bloody fine match to go with the A6M2 - XF76 - straight from the jar! Oh yeah, also I found out after even more agonising that Tamiya XF71 is a very passable match for the Mitsubishi cockpit colour.

 

Thanks Koala. I bought jars of XF-76 & XF-71 during my shopping spree last weekend (from whence came the book). ;) I also bought XF-75, listed as "IJN GRAY (KURE ARSENAL)" and XF-70, listed as "DARK GREEN 2 (IJN)". Not sure about these last 2 colours, but I've got some old jars of their Gunze equivalents to fall back on if I need to (and if they're any good still).

 

Pick a scheme first - now there's a novel idea! I often can't make up my mind until so late that it delays the painting process! :lol: I'm keen to start on this one, but at the same time I realise I need to do a fair bit of reading first, or at least before getting too far. Oddly, I can find hardly any useful reviews or build-ups of this Revell kit on the web. I was hoping for a quick heads-up on where it's major accuracy problems are, but I guess I'll have to determine that for myself.

 

Hopefully some actual modelling photos soon!

 

Kev

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Kev, I just ordered some pe from eduard, and their shipping charges are set in stone. I ordered 60.00 $$ of PE (on sale) and S&H is 29$$US. Next time I'll save my pennies, and order bigger.

 

Thanks for that info Mike. I found a local(ish) supplier a couple of days ago who can send me the IJN seatbelt set for 55 cents S&H! They just send stuff as standard mail, and most PE will fit in a standard envelope, so I think I'll order that one. I also vaguely remember seeing some resin wheel sets somewhere but can't find them anymore.

 

 

Hi BigKev,

 

I think I can help with some documentation for your built, just give me your e mail address so I can contact you off line and I'll see what I can do

Cheers,

 

loic

 

Thanks Loic, PM sent.

 

Kev

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OK, some actual modelling progress at last! I've sanded off all the rivets and separated all the control surfaces:

 

post-3071-1242516527.jpg

 

I thinned the wing trailing edges and will be attempting to construct flaps and ailerons for the first time ever. I've got some good photos of that area so I think I'll just glue those to the model. :huh:

 

Unfortunately I made a hash of removing the moulded-in wheel wells, which were way too shallow:

 

post-3071-1242516584.jpg

 

I think I can still make it all work, but I have to confess that I have no idea how to go about making new wheel wells. :blink: Any suggestions? (I know, shoulda thunked about that before cutting 'em out!)

 

Next step is to begin the rescribing work. This should be easier now than it was on the Dora, as I've since acquired some better tools, some decent templates, and most of all, more experience!

 

Kev

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Kev,

Making wheel wells is pretty much straight forward as to what i do with my vac stuff.If u have the hasegawa P-51 kit or for that matter any kit that has sunken wheel wells.Take a look at them and just follow the way their molded into place.Then if u have some sheet plastic,then u would cut out some strips and make sure they follow the contours of the wing,so the wing will fit properly when u get ready to glue them into place.

I do this all the time,or another idea is to make them a drop in type of wheel well as to the outline of the well.Just lay a piece of sheet or to make a template under the wing and trace the outline of the well.That way u can transfer the outline to some sheet and make the bottom of the well and that way.U can again use sheet to make the side walls of the well and other areas of the well.

And then for the final deal as to detailing the well as to adding plumbing and etc. to them.These are the only three i can think of unless u find a trashed hasegawa kit and use the wells out of it.And before i wrote this reply i check my parts box of zros items and did not have the hase parts at all.Or u would have gotten them in the mail from me.Larry

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Kev,

Making wheel wells is pretty much straight forward as to what i do with my vac stuff.If u have the hasegawa P-51 kit or for that matter any kit that has sunken wheel wells.Take a look at them and just follow the way their molded into place.Then if u have some sheet plastic,then u would cut out some strips and make sure they follow the contours of the wing,so the wing will fit properly when u get ready to glue them into place.

I do this all the time,or another idea is to make them a drop in type of wheel well as to the outline of the well.Just lay a piece of sheet or to make a template under the wing and trace the outline of the well.That way u can transfer the outline to some sheet and make the bottom of the well and that way.U can again use sheet to make the side walls of the well and other areas of the well.

And then for the final deal as to detailing the well as to adding plumbing and etc. to them.These are the only three i can think of unless u find a trashed hasegawa kit and use the wells out of it.And before i wrote this reply i check my parts box of zros items and did not have the hase parts at all.Or u would have gotten them in the mail from me.Larry

 

Thanks Larry. I guess I'll have to stare at some photos for a while and see which method makes the most sense. If I screw up the wheel wells then I guess I'll have screwed up the model, so I'm keen to get them at least passable.

 

Kev

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