kopterdoctor Posted April 28, 2007 Author Share Posted April 28, 2007 Hopeful my belly will be Gray soon I fell naked Enjoy Guys Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesMetz Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Hi Steve. Thanks for the PM, I went here-Export Buffalo and bought one. Yippee! Um, Allok ... that link took me to an F2A-3 kit rather than to a kit of the Brewster Model 339, which was the version used by Finland, The Netherlands, The UK, etc. Charles Metz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopterdoctor Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share Posted April 29, 2007 Charles The kit has decals for the Model 339 I cut this out Decals for 4 aircraft: F2A-3 (BuNo 1553 MF-15)US Marine Corps VMF-221, Captain William C Humberd, Midway, June 1942. F2A-3 (BuNo 1612) US Navy Training Command, NAS Jacksonville, August 1943. Model339-23 (A51-10/307) No 25 Squadron RAAF, Perth, Western Australia, September 1942. Model 339-23 (A51-15/312) 5th Air Force, USAAF, Essendon AB, Australia, 1942. Steve Um, Allok ... that link took me to an F2A-3 kit rather than to a kit of the Brewster Model 339, which was the version used by Finland, The Netherlands, The UK, etc. Charles Metz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allok Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Whoa... steady on guys! There can't be that much difference between an F2A-2 and an F2A-3. All I need is a Buffalo with roundels, the rest I can "fix" with my trusty knife. Steves plane is still an inspiration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDSmodeller Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 I have been watching this build with interest The F2A-2 is one of my favorite a/c. Allok there is an important difference between the F2A2 and -A3 that is a 10 inch fuselage extension, between the leading edge of wing and the rear of the cowling (works out to @ 7.9mm in 1/32 scale). The other important difference is if you are doing an export version for RAF/Dutch/Finn etc the cockpits varied according to country requirements. For RNZAF you would build RAF style (Buffalo Mk I- de-navalised version of a F2A2). Also the propeller was different as the RAF version used 10 foot 1inch Hamilton std prop instead of the Curtiss electric cuffed prop. Another change is the replacement of the naval tail wheel with a fixed pheumatic tyre (like the SBD 5 Dauntless) Armoured windshield (fitted interior side of canopy) There are some other minor differences cockpit wise Hope that helps (you may have this info already??) Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopterdoctor Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share Posted April 30, 2007 Guy I just F up the gray on the belly I'm so piss at it I just may put in the **** can :angry: this SUCKS :angry: Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesMetz Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 I just F up the gray on the belly I'm so piss at it I just may put in the **** can :angry: Sir ... Your friends are worried about you .. please drop that airbrush ... NOW! ... and step away from your workbench. Thank you. Now get some sleep. That Buffalo will look better in the morning. Charles Metz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopterdoctor Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share Posted April 30, 2007 Charles Sorry I was just a little upset. I’ve work hard on this. To have the gray paint run sucks. I used Model Master Acrylic. Not a good chose. Again if I affined anyone I’m sorry Steve And your so right time to back off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javlin1 Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 I have been watching this build with interest The F2A-2 is one of my favorite a/c. Allok there is an important difference between the F2A2 and -A3 that is a 10 inch fuselage extension, between the leading edge of wing and the rear of the cowling (works out to @ 7.9mm in 1/32 scale). The other important difference is if you are doing an export version for RAF/Dutch/Finn etc the cockpits varied according to country requirements. For RNZAF you would build RAF style (Buffalo Mk I- de-navalised version of a F2A2). Also the propeller was different as the RAF version used 10 foot 1inch Hamilton std prop instead of the Curtiss electric cuffed prop. Another change is the replacement of the naval tail wheel with a fixed pheumatic tyre (like the SBD 5 Dauntless) Armoured windshield (fitted interior side of canopy) There are some other minor differences cockpit wise Hope that helps (you may have this info already??) Alan Happens to all Steve,like Charles said the solution will come in the morning.Liken the paint so far Steve.Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDSmodeller Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Steve, I understand your frustration I have a Me 410, rebuilt the cockpit etc etc finally got it all together and the acryllic (also Model master) sprayed out a watery mess :angry: The best way to decribe my feeling was "livid" any way cleaned it all off and started again. Some times it is best to just walk away and come back once you had a chance to calm down and reassess the situation. The only word of advice I can truly give is "If at first you don't succecd then try try again" On a lighter note have you decided as to what markings you are going to dress your Bird in?? I noticed in a previous post, you had markings for:F2A-3 (BuNo 1553 MF-15)US Marine Corps VMF-221, Captain William C Humberd, Midway, June 1942. This pilot won the Navy Cross for a daring head on duel (and won) with a Japanese A6M2 Zero, during the Battle of Midway, talk about gutsy... Regards Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopterdoctor Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share Posted April 30, 2007 Alan Not to sure which one I well do. MF-1 01518 Maj. Floyd B. Parks USMC MF-15 01553 Capt. William C. Humberd USMC Ether way I have to make the M F # myself. In my book all the guys on Midway are heros. Again guys I apologies and thank for the support. And the mess is all cleaned up as you said try try again. But this time no acrylic. :angry: Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopterdoctor Posted May 1, 2007 Author Share Posted May 1, 2007 Ok Here we go again with the gray Wish me luck Hopefully Some good Pic's in an hour or so One way or another I'll put them up Good or bad Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesMetz Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Here we go again with the gray I know that hindsight is 20/20, but wouldn't it have been safer to shoot your gray before the blue? Charles Metz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopterdoctor Posted May 1, 2007 Author Share Posted May 1, 2007 I know that hindsight is 20/20, but wouldn't it have been safer to shoot your gray before the blue? Charles Metz Your right as alway Start from the bottom up DAAAAAAAAAAAAA Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopterdoctor Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Hi Guys I do it this time (and I ment that) It's ghost gray. No runs no brips & no eras Well at least I'm happy Still needs some work So here Ya go Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts