primer question

[Dave Pratt]

I've been using Floquil Railraod Enamel primer for some time now but here's the question...is there any good acrylic primers or does such a beast exist?Anyone???

[maverick728470]

Dave,

Have never seen any at the shop where i go for my club meetings and at best for water based types.Larry

[LSP_Matt]

Hi Dave,

 

I've heard of guys using Mr surfacer 1000 airbrushed on as an undercoat.

I've been using grey Alclad primer and find it magic to spray and super smooth...it sticks like crazy and really bites into the plastic...then acrylic over the top once its dry.

 

I usually have no major dramas with Gunze/Tamiya Acrylics but don't feel they adhere to the surface anywhere near as much as the enamel based primers. Just my limited experience on the topic.

 

HTH cheers Matty

[AndyB]

I've been using Halfords grey plastic primer merrily for both Humbrol enamels and Games Workshop acrylics, often on the same kit, without any issues whatsoever. Nice smooth finish and doesn't obliterate the detail (at least not on 24th )

[ChrisS]

I suggest sticking with an enamal undercoat unless you are 100% sure you won't be using hotter carriers over the top. A good rule to go by is to always place your hottest carrier down first, if you've ever tried enamals over acrylics you know how risky it can be to shoot a hotter coat over a cooler one.

 

~CRACKING~

[Stef (#6)]

Hello,

 

I'm varying primers according to what will be sprayed after ...

 

Tamiya, mostly : Grey primer (spray can), very strong, do tense to a very smooth surface, almost undestructible. I, most of the times do polish using Micromesh before painting (I'm arylholic : Gunze, tamiya Xtracrylcs, etc).

 

For Alcald, again tamiya spray san, either AS12 mat aluminium or TS 17;

 

and again, polished with micromesh : has the interest of revealing the smallest boo-boo and to give a metallic hue to seams treated with putty.

 

A side note of interest : Gunze Mister Surfacer exists in Spray can (either grey or white), which much airbrush-friendly !!!

 

hereafter a pic of an A-10 primed with the Tamiya Grey primer ... you can see the difference in texture at the wing root.

 

HTH,

 

Cheers

 

Stef (#6)

 

PS : sorry, this a 1/48 A-10 But I have the Trump, too !!! LOL

 

[Guest UMIRESIN]

Ya guys can laugh

but I use automotive grade flat grey primer made for engines at Auto -Zone ( not recommended for indoors use ) , and i use a second type also for automotive use by dupli-color " high-build formula " that fills scratches on masters i'm finishing up . this allows you to scribe into it a few days later - but if i'm going ummm ? eco-logically friendly ? i use gloss grey in water based acrylics -then dulled later after decals with a water based dull-coat .

Happy modeling

[Dave Pratt]

Guys thanks for your in-put and yes...I spelled Acylic wrong on the header page...I'll still keep using this Floquil Railroad primer but I was really wondering what else was out there.Thanks for all of your advice...cheers

[Mike]

Dear Dave

 

I proably visited this issue with you persoanlly.

 

Acrylics DO NOT inheirently "grab" on to Plastics. Water and Oil don't mix Basic Chem 101. Plastics are Oil Based. Acrylics are water based. Thye may well cover well over plastic. They may well look like they are "sticking" to the plastic after their dry. But UN primed they can be scratched, peeled break off under pressure. Like laying masking tape down etc. Becuase as mentioned they have no actual "bite" cem bond to the surface is very weak alone.

 

The thing which provides that is FLAT Paint. What makes a "FLAT" paint dull to look and rough to touch is the very thing which makes Acrylics "Grab" them and create a strong bond. Flat paints have a MIcro-Scopicly "rough" Surface which deflects light ergo making it look dull.

 

What you "want" to bond with the Plastics as mentioned already is Any "Mineral Spirit" based Paint.

 

I typicly buy and use Model Master Aircraft Grey. It is a very light FLAT Grey Enamel. I thin the Crp out of it. Where as for a Color I would be painting I would normally thin ot a "Milk" consistency ? This I thin to a Water consistency.

 

I then ussually take the WHOLE Kit straight out of the Box and still on the Sprues, Step NO. 0 adn I spray the whole thing sprues and all a very thinned Light Spary Coat of MM Aircraft Lt Grey.

 

It works out great for me ? It covers with a Light whitish Grey dusting which enhaces detail not hides it and I start constructing from there.

 

Yours Mike

[fmitche]

For probably 30 years I have been using DuPont 30S automotive lacquer primer for everything and under everything. I buy it by the quart at automotive paint stores. A quart will last 3-4 Years which turns out to be pretty cheap. I have two old Floquil bottles which I fill about 1/4 - 1/3 with the primer and fill the rest with DuPont lacquer thinner (important to use high-quality and brand-compatible thinner). I have evn been known to brush it on a difficult area straight fom the can. Wonderful stuff, and you can vary the thinnnig to make heavy or light fill. It is the best sanding primer I have ever used.

[LSP_Matt]

and yes...I spelled Acylic wrong on the header page..

 

here as well Mmmmm beeeeer

 

mate

 

Oh...gotta watch those automotive primers. I used one on my Meteor prop and was horrified to see it virtually melt the plastic. Pick your automotive ones carefully I reckon...test on some dodgy old kit first perhaps

 

Matty...good thread Dave