alaninaustria Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Hej guys.... finally got myself a painting cubicle that is specifically for painting as it sucks the fumes through a series of filters and vents outside.... so I have dived into the world of ALCLAD II aluminum painting.... I tried a few small aplications without any priming or under coating.... and I am happy with the results... I have head so much chat about the ALCLADII being so "HOT" that it will eat into the unprotected plastic... and it did not when I used it... what are the truths of this paint? I must admit that it dries fast and that it does look like real metal when finished! I like it and will be getting a few more different shades to use on some future builds! Cheers Alan ..... now let's hear the different experiences and thoughts on ALCLAD II! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgar Brooks Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 The basic Alclad shades are made with a synthetic cellulose base + thinners. This is an agressive material, which can attack plastic, especially the slightly inferior grades. You can get away with not priming, for ages, and, just as you're congratulating yourself on how clever you've been, you'll get a surface that looks as though it has boils. Some kits are made from recycled plastic, and this can mean little air pockets just below the surface. Normally, this is not a problem, but, if the top surface is fairly thin, the cellulose will break through, and the air bubble will erupt. Acrylic primers, for car plastic bumpers, for example, are ideal, but do not use them for the special shades, Chrome, Stainless Steel, and Highly Polished Aluminium. The first two need gloss black enamel, for an undercoat; ignore this, and they won't work, plus they'll rub off. Highly Polished Aluminium needs a gloss black acrylic base. The other advantage, regarding the primer(s,) is that you can see any little flaws, in your finish, and recoat, before you spray Alclad, and curse at the faults. Edgar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffH Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Tamiya Fine surface primer seems to work ok for the one shade I have tried so far (Stainless Steel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 Thanks guys... I will proceed with caution! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hacker Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 The only bare metal type finish l have dappled in was using Floquil old silver. l used it to give what l think is a more realist metal finish and it hardens like a rock unlike some bear metal finishes. l have never used alcad but when l get a place where l can work and paint again l would like to try it on my XB-35 when l get around to painting it hacker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phasephantomphixer Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Alclad II gives a superior finish and is as simple as following the fine print on each bottle. Hard as a rock, no wearing off, thin as can be. Tried it and decided it was the answer to many problems. The chrome is amazing! You can use micromesh with the primer before applying Alclad to get grain direction too. BTW, I am not a salesman, just happy customer! The one thing is you need to exhaust the air, or use a proper respirator because it has strong vapors. Get some! E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 All, How does Alclad behave over Mr. Surfacer? Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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