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Producing one's own decals


ssculptor

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I am going to try to produce my own decals.

I do not have an Alps printer nor do I want to buy one.

So, does any one who has tried it have any ideas about producing decals?

I have Corel Draw and I was wondering if that was a good program to use. I also have AutoCAD and was wondering if that was a good one to use.

Any informed ideas?

Stephen Auslender

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Hiya Stephen,

Corel draw will do pretty much any work required for decals. The main problems however are getting the 'colours' right. You will have to do all the markings in the 'correct colours' and as such, even if you use hexadecimal codes that are avaialble on the net for common military marking colours, there is no simple way to do that - a lot of trial and error will be needed as no two systems are the same. Monitor colours vary, printing inks vary in density and colour. Once you have a match to what you need, set a 'colour profile' for the particular sheet. I have never tried to do decals with anything other than an ALPS printer as they are the only ones that can print whites (obviously a massive advantage on smaller markings) and they can also print 'solid' colours without the 'dots' associated with other printers. But for inkjets and lasers there are ways around this. Printing on white decal paper being one, or printing on clear paper and using a white background on the model being another. However, there will always be the 'dots' even on the finest printers availble.

I know some chaps here have had a bash, and will be able to help more with the inkjet/laser route than I can, but anything i can do for you i'll give it my best shot.

Rob.

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Y'know, after all the problems associated with the inkjet decals, I wonder if the new laserjets would do a better job of printing the decals.

I have to buy a decent printer anyway, maybe I should go to a color laserjet.

Two questions:

1) Has anybody made any decals with a color laserjet and if so, was it necessary to spray a clear atop of it?

2) How do the manufacturers of regular decals that we get in the kits make their decals? Does anyone out there know what equipment they use?

Stephen

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l have been thinking of getting a Alps printer off of ebay but l really unsure about getting refills for it. l know our resident model guru Radub uses an Alps printer . l would be interested what he would have to say

 

hacker :D B)

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Stephen:

 

Laser printers are for the most part better than inkjet as they produce waterproof decals. However, no white, no mettalics. Also, colors are translucent so need a white backing.

 

Inkjets have the same problems, plus ink is mostly not waterproof so they need to be coated with a clear coat before dipping in water. Note I say "mostly not waterproof": I bought a new Epson Color Stylus that uses pigment based-inks instead of the usual dye-based inks. It is supposed to be water resistant "on some papers". I haven't done a lot of experimentation yet, but I will be. Will keep you posted.

 

ALPS printers are still the best as they use wax-based ink that is waterproof, they print white, silver, gold, and other mettalics, and you can tell the printer to hold the paper in ("overlay"), so you can print multiple passes. However, weaknesses include a relatively low dpi, and problems printing light blues or greys, or mixed colors so that you can see the dot matrix (the low dpi problem). There are all kinds of work-arounds that can be done, including how you layer the colors, how many layers you use, printing or placing a white over colors, etc. Of course, there is also the availability issue. However, ALPS sold, or leased, its technology to other manufacturers such as Kodak (First Check printers) and Okidata, so there are still supplies out there as of this date.

 

Me, I have stocked up on ALPS supplies, and hope to figure out a way to get good results from my Epson. That way I could do the color on the Epson - with a lot less trouble than the ALPS - then print out white backgrounds on the ALPS. We shall see...

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In my opinion, no desktop system can fully replace silkscreened decals. Take my (ALPS)OKI for example. Many colours are impossible to print correctly, such as the Insignia Blue in the US "star and bars" or a nice warm yellow for the Romanian insignia. Orange is still a "holy grail". Brown or grey are near impossible. One needs to resort to over-complicated multilayered (read "thick") decals to get such colours. It is not cheap either. Consumables are expensive. Shortage of ink may be a worry for some and many try to predict what would happen to supplies in some near or distant future. I do not know what will happen, but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. :D

 

I also have an Epson "DuraBrite" inkjet printer, and it performs quite well, but the decals need to be printed on white decal paper and be cut as close as possible to the design. As described by Ray above, as an alternative, one may be able to get away with it by printing the white base separately with an ALPS printer, apply that to the model, then apply the inkjet decal over it. (That was how I did the Mickey Mouse on my Hurricane http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/uploads/...-1129320968.jpg ) The decal paper for inkjet tends to be thick.

 

I never used a laser printer to print decals, but I used decals printed on a laser photocopier (similar process) These can crack and flake when applied to the model - the colour toner is quite rigid. I believe that Xerox Phaser laser printers use a wax-based ink rather than a toner-based ink - this may be more flexible.

 

My conclusion: I always recommend using homemade decals as a last resort and only in the absence of other "proper" aftermarket stuff. I only use my (ALPS)OKI printer to print decals when no alternative is available.

 

HTH

Radu

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for solid color letters in the past what l have done is this. Lets say l want white letters l take a white decal sheet and reverse it in the printer and prnt backward letters on the back as a guide to cutting them out. Its an easy solution for me when l need large letter. It can work for other applications too. And thats my 2 cents

 

hacker :ph34r: ;)

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the oranges for the Kodak First Check systems are avaialble ... but most places will only sell in packs of 5 which works out pricey ;)

 

For my Alps supplies I use HCR in Hamburg - good prices and fast delivery.

 

For some real good info on ALPS printing, pop over to Yahoo Groups and sign up the 'alpsdecal' group. Very interesting and creative ideas there for alps decals.

 

I have tried combinations of inkjet and Alps printing ... with zero success i have to admit.

 

hacker i would be VERY wary of getting ALPS printers off ebay .. . heard some right horror stories about problems with 'print heads' being out of life (yes, alps heads are only designed for a certain number of 'passes') unless its cheap ...

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Hacker

I have to say I like that idea a lot, wish I have thought of that earlier. Thanks for the tip.

 

well Scott l have used this method to make USAAF/ USAF 45 degree letters as well as WWII gernan, Havent had a chance to do british or Japanese markings. The way l had figured it is that if you had them as regular decels you would cut them close anyways so what the diff if they are printed on the back??

 

hacker :( ;)

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