Work bench lights question

[Padubon]

I am about to finish my man cave and even though I have decent lighting, I feel I may need a bench lamp. 
Any advice?

 

Thank you gentlemen

[europapete]

Get the brightest you can find, and get at least two, so you can light the work from opposte sides, no shadows.

And get the "daylight" type bulbs, so paint colours look normal and not washed out or yellow. 

Edited August 22 by europapete

[Archimedes]

14 minutes ago, europapete said:

Get the brightest you can find, and get at least two, so you can light the work from opposte sides, no shadows.

And get the "daylight" type bulbs, so paint colours look normal and not washed out or yellow. 

What he said. 
 

kind regards, 

Paul

[CShanne]

The red grass games R9 light was specifically designed to encompass as many frequencies of light as possible.  So, the light on them is as close as you can get to the natural color.  While not cheap, they are very good lamps. I use them for figure painting and it is obvious when you go from another light to the redgrass games light. 

[nmayhew]

Neatfi for the win

 

3500 lumen on angle poise style arms

[LSP_Mike]

Look at the lights in nail salons.

[europapete]

Get your nails done regularly do you Mike? 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist! 

[LSP_Mike]

Well Pete, Mr. Smarty Pants, when I went to the nail place, I saw the light(?) and it's an arc. Aboot 24", and 14" tall, daylight, and pretty bright. The owners husband is a model guy, so we talked a bit. I have LED's on the ceiling, and a swing-arm flourescent, but the arc ones are on line at 30-ish dollars.

[nmayhew]

from the feedback of those who have dabbled with arcs over on SMCG, the verdict was that ultimately a lamp (preferably lamps) on arms / stands were better; the arc ended up getting in the way or not providing light where needed

your mileage may vary of course

 

i have some helix photography bulbs which are uber bright, but the inability to / inconvenience of getting them right where i wanted them lead me to getting another Neatfi (I have 2 older ones with less lumen capacity).

 

here is the Neatfi 26" / 3500 lumen one i just bought for the main part of my desk - I have a traditional / antique style desk so i need a stand (it's way too thick for clamps)

 

 

 

[europapete]

Neat idea Mike, will look into it

[LSP_Mike]

I think best for sub assemblies, Pete. I think swing arm is best all around.

[Padubon]

Thank you gents, I appreciate it 

[LSP_Mike]

Nailed it....

[Merad]

On 8/23/2026 at 7:46 AM, nmayhew said:

here is the Neatfi 26" / 3500 lumen one i just bought for the main part of my desk - I have a traditional / antique style desk so i need a stand (it's way too thick for clamps)

 

 

I bought this exact lamp this spring after my previous desk lamp broke (just outside the warranty period, of course).  It's pricey, but worth it.  I have another smaller Neatfi lamp that I've had for a couple of years, I pull it in on a swing arm when I need extra light, taking pictures, etc.  Their stuff seems to be good quality & well made.

[Mals Way]

On 8/22/2026 at 11:16 PM, europapete said:

Get the brightest you can find, and get at least two, so you can light the work from opposte sides, no shadows.

And get the "daylight" type bulbs, so paint colours look normal and not washed out or yellow. 

 

Shadows are very usefull if used right imo.

 

One light source angeled in various positions so you get to seeing them shadows to reveal surface defects, dents, scratches, particles that landed on the primer, easier before paint comes on. 

 

Example when cylinder forms , When aligning fuselage halfes when missaligned even a fraction creates a  shadow, when aligned no shadows.

 

Taking care of those above mention early in a build makes rest go smooth.

 

Edit, googled it up what its called in English "glancing light"

and a note i use it freq.

 

Multiple light sources is good when painting as mentioned.

 

 

Edited August 27 by Mals Way