Tamiya 1/32 P-51D-10-NA Detroit Miss

[JayW]

John - you had asked about the canopy glass.  The P-51D had at least three different shaped canopy glass details.  Detroit Miss gets the original first release (the "California 1" canopy).  My Blondi kit has two canopy options - one is the Calif 1.  My kit part is N-1.  It is charactterized from the other option by having a very round side profile, whereas the later version has a more abrupt curve near the windshield, and a flatter transition aft from there.  This picture from the glass drawing shows the difference:

 

 

Also, in addidtion to the different side profile, the later version canopy is bulged on the sides, not unlike the Malcolm hood seen on B-models.  The early canopy (for Detroit Miss) is not bulged.  I don't know if your kit has the same sprue, but either way hopefully it is pretty obvious which one to use.  

 

I want to also add, since you have been paying attention to the IP, you should have two options for the coaming that fits over the IP.  One option has stiffening beads on the sides.  One does not.  Use the one that does NOT have the stiffening beads.  On my kit, the parts are D27 and D28.  D28 is the one to use.  

[Thunnus]

Thank you Jay!  So helpful!  One of the great features of LSP are the knowledgeable modelers here.  So when I tackle an unfamiliar (to me anyway) subject like the Mustang, I feel reassured that I have people to help me along the way.

 

My kit has three clear parts...

 

P-1

 

 

N-1

 

 

M-1

 

 

Based on Jay's information, I am going to go with M-1 or N-1.  And yes, my kit has both coamings D27 and D28.  I will make a note to use the one without stiffeners, D28.

Edited June 25 by Thunnus
Corrected part numbers

[JayW]

Yeah M-1 is definitely the later canopy.  Can you tell the difference between N-1 an P-1?  To my eye, P-1 seems the right choice, but it is hard to tell.  If one has bulged sides, then that will not be the right one. 

 

The picture you have of Detroit Miss shows really well the contour of the canopy.     

[Thunnus]

1 hour ago, JayW said:

Yeah M-1 is definitely the later canopy.  Can you tell the difference between N-1 an P-1?  To my eye, P-1 seems the right choice, but it is hard to tell.  If one has bulged sides, then that will not be the right one. 

 

The picture you have of Detroit Miss shows really well the contour of the canopy.     

Sorry Jay but I labeled the pics wrong... see corrected post! Yes P-1 (what you call M-1) is definitely the later canopy so won't be using that one.  Looking at M-1 and N-1 more closely, I can see N-1 has a slight side bulge near the front of the canopy but M-1 does not.  So... it looks like M-1 is the correct canopy for the P-51D-10-NA. Sorry for the label confusion!

[Thunnus]

Just to put wrapper on the canopy thing, here are photos of M-1 and N-1.  Looking from the top, N-1 has a noticeable bulge on the sides near the front edge.

 

 

Compared to M-1, which is noticeably straighter.

 

 

To repeat, we're going with Canopy M-1 based on these visual comparisons.

 

 

One of the advantages of owning a Portrait craft cutter is making uniquely useful masks.  The white border within the P-51 instrument panel is a good example.  It's a difficult shape to mask with tape.  Barracuda supplies a nice decal but it is in the wrong color (yellow). The panel was given a coat of white before the border decal was used.

 

The panel was sprayed Tamiya Rubber Black XF-85. Instrument bezels often have a slightly different shade/finish than the panel itself so I use two different colors.  Another custom cut mask makes this step really easy.  The instrument bezels are then painted black.

 

The border mask is then removed.  Hmmm... it's a bit on the wide side.

 

The clear acetate parts are oriented reverse side up.  Painting the back side of the acetate in white makes the instruments pop out visually.

 

Here's what the PE-Acetate "sandwich" looks like.  A couple of fine decals from the Barracuda Cockpit Stencil set have been added.  I also reduced the white line width ever so slightly.  

 

I have not finished painting the outer instrument panel yet but this how the panel is shaping up. The markings on the instruments are so fine that there isn't much visual "pop" as I would like.  Just in case, I've put in an order for some Airscale USAAF instrument dials to see if I can get a more visually noticeable result.

 

As I've seen on other builds, I'm going to give the fuel tank some texture to simulate a rubber coating. I stippled Mr Surfacer 500 with a stiff brush to give this rough texture.  The battery and radio mount above the fuel tank so I don't think much of it will be seen but it was an easy enough enhancement to make.

 

Trimming off the details from the back of the Barracuda seat cut off the wiring prematurely.  So I replaced it with a length of copper wire.

 

[crobinsonh]

Lovely detailing. The Tamiya Mustang is a truly wonderful build in the hands of a master such as yourself.

[Antonio Argudo]

looking good John, the inertia switch and indicator light on the back of the armour seat was introduced in later variants, specially for the pacific ones, when the battery was moved to the engine and replaced with SCR-695A set, you may want to just sand and remove it to plain surface for your D-10 variant,  here some drawing of the installation manual  and some 361st FG pics showing plain back, hope it helps, cheers

 

Edited June 26 by Antonio Argudo

[Antonio Argudo]

there is a picture of Detroit Miss just showing the plain back armour seat 

[Antonio Argudo]

looking closer something sticks out, I compared to some other period pics, and there is like a little plate attached to the left side of the hanging, not sure what the function is, also to note  a bit unusual is on the top  something  is there, maybe related to the aerial system but not sure 🤨 

Edited June 26 by Antonio Argudo

[Thunnus]

Thank you for the comments.  I have to say something about Antonio.  Let me say something about Antonio Argudo.  He is one of the most detail-oriented members that I know here at LSP.  He has commented numerous times on many of my builds, always pointing out something to consider and backing them up with rationale and photos. I'm so grateful for people like Antonio and Jay and Juggernut and others... guys that freely give out detailed information just because they are passionate about these aircraft.  Thank you thank you thank you!

 

I will make those adjustments to the back of the seat panel but I've been working on some other things...

 

 

I wasn't happy with the width of that white line on the instrument panel so I adjusted it a couple of times.

 

The next set to look at is the Barracuda Cockpit Upgrade which comes with a few upgraded items such as the battery and radio boxes, control stick and a K-14 gun sight which I won't be using.

 

Here's the battery and radio.

 

That wiring harness for the battery is a bit clunky so I'm going to replace it.  Here's Version 1 of the wiring harness.  Not completely happy with it but it gives you an idea of what I am shooting for.

 

The throttle quadrant got a few upgrades as well.  New knobs which were scrounged from a Brita Water Filter.

 

The last Barracuda set is the Cockpit /Sidewalls set.

 

As with the other Barracuda sets, I'll separate the parts from their casting blocks and see how they fit with the kit parts.

 

I love the little details that Roy throws into these sets.  North American-branded rudder pedal inserts!

 

 

 

 

[JayW]

Stand by John - must check the RH side of the cockpit wall.    

[JayW]

I remember when I was doing up Miss Velma (also a -10NA) I was surprised to see a general lack of equipment on the RH side of the cockpit.  Here is a pic of what I modeled:

 

 

Note there are unused spaces on the support brackets (sorry for the poor modeling here - I have gotten better since then).  It might be worth another look though.  I'll try to get to it, unless Antonio beats me to it!  

Edited June 26 by JayW

[JayW]

This from the parts catalogue:

 

 

Items 11 and 12 are for Detrola - not to be used.  Don't know about that item 6 bracket....  The item in front is the main switch box of which there are many versions.  Looks like you have one in resin.  

Edited June 27 by JayW

[Biggles87]

More good progress. Excellent IP, I think the brightness of the dials is OK taking scale into account.

I’ve just noticed that the Barracuda control column includes the lugs for the control locking system at the bottom. Is the other part in the set or does that come with the kit?

 

John. 🇺🇦

PS: I’ve just joined the fuselage halves on a 1/48 P-51D on which I stippled the tank and can confirm that the largest part visible is the flat plate on top!

[Antonio Argudo]

thanks for the kind words John, much appreciated, and thanks to you for sharing your amazing skilled builds, they are always fascinating to follow! since  Tamiya instructions has some wrong painting calls for certain parts in the cockpit let me save you some trouble, the cockpit floor was not all black, only the front wood parts where the feet were involved, the rear is  Interior Green and there is a tan access canvas with buttons under the seat, the battery and SCR rack was painted black from factory instead of green as tamiya calls, a picture of a modern warbird  showing in the stencils of Barracuda decals instructions made people think it was green but NAA period footage and unrestored examples  shows it was black indeed

 

 

 

new old stock plywood panel with the non slide paint  used for the Kiwi farm found restauration 

 

the dust protector canvas under the seat

NAA footage assembly line showing the black rack and hollowed beam 

unrestored rack

Edited June 27 by Antonio Argudo