Pacific Coast Models 1/32 Fiat G.55 Centauro

[JayW]

Pretty cool John - were this model to be able to think and feel, it would be ever so grateful to have it built by the master of masters.  I think personally that such a crude limited production kit represents to you a challenge.  An opportunity to make it into something special.  Good start! 

Edited June 19 by JayW

[Troy Molitor]

Great start.  Looking forward to the rework on the trailing edges on the elevators.  Do you have a scheme already in mind you can share with us?  There are so many with the G.55.  

[RCPlym]

1 hour ago, JayW said:

crude limited production kit

 

Thats a bit harsh... ☹️ 

[JayW]

4 hours ago, RCPlym said:

6 hours ago, JayW said:

crude limited production kit

 

Thats a bit harsh... ☹️ 

 

Well I meant no harm - Thunnus was merely describing the lack of locating and alignment features of the kit, and other omissions, so that is what I meant.

[scvrobeson]

So that's how we figure out where to add pins. I need to squirrel that away for the next build I need to reinforce. Thanks for the informative tip John

 

 

Matt 

[Dpgsbody55]

Great start on the new Fiat.  I like your method of placing pins on the tail plane joint.  Some good improvements here already, too.

 

 

Cheers,

Michael

[ROM]

Hello

So happy to see you starting this kit.

I love PCM kits, and this is in my stash as well.

Looking forward to see next steps

cheers

[RCPlym]

19 hours ago, JayW said:

 

Well I meant no harm - Thunnus was merely describing the lack of locating and alignment features of the kit, and other omissions, so that is what I meant.

 

Just the sort of kit I like! 

Nothing better than figuring out how to get best fit etc.

 

The much maligned FLY Hurricane was my first build on returning to the hobby after over a quarter of a century. 

Loved building it. Then I found some rather negative reviews about it's fit etc. and wondered what happened to modelling skills during my hiatus.

Then I got a Kotare Spitfire and my question was answered. None needed as it is almost self-assembling! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 

[Thunnus]

On 6/18/2026 at 11:09 PM, PEYSSON Gilles said:

Hello, John
A very nice start to this new project, with the usual attention to detail in the finish.
I'll take a chair

 

Gilles

 

 

Thank you Gilles!  I usually find starting a new kit more fun than finishing an old one!  I need more discipline to finish the projects I start.

 

 

On 6/19/2026 at 1:57 AM, LSP_Kevin said:

Excellent work, John.

 

Kev

Thank you Kevin!

 

 

On 6/19/2026 at 2:02 AM, RCPlym said:

Another rabbit hole to be investigated.

I have never made a model of any Italian aircraft.

I like the look of this one, so out with the card again... 

 

Following. 👍👍 

Thank you!  Italian aircraft are often overlooked.  Same with Russian aircraft.  I wish there was a good IM version of the La-5N.

 

 

On 6/19/2026 at 4:50 AM, JayW said:

Pretty cool John - were this model to be able to think and feel, it would be ever so grateful to have it built by the master of masters.  I think personally that such a crude limited production kit represents to you a challenge.  An opportunity to make it into something special.  Good start! 

Thanks Jay!  Thanks to these small short-run companies, we have access to a decent representation of the Fiat G.55.  I'm grateful and look at the limitations of the short-run productions as more "fun" for me.

 

 

On 6/19/2026 at 5:50 AM, Troy Molitor said:

Great start.  Looking forward to the rework on the trailing edges on the elevators.  Do you have a scheme already in mind you can share with us?  There are so many with the G.55.  

Thanks Troy!  I've not settled on a scheme yet but I'm juggling between one of the mottle schemes or the experimental splinter scheme.

 

 

On 6/19/2026 at 6:47 AM, RCPlym said:

 

Thats a bit harsh... ☹️ 

 

On 6/19/2026 at 11:24 AM, JayW said:

 

Well I meant no harm - Thunnus was merely describing the lack of locating and alignment features of the kit, and other omissions, so that is what I meant.

I understood what Jay meant and I didn't interpret it as a disparagement of the kit or company.

 

 

 

On 6/19/2026 at 11:53 AM, scvrobeson said:

So that's how we figure out where to add pins. I need to squirrel that away for the next build I need to reinforce. Thanks for the informative tip John

 

 

Matt 

I'm really bad at lining up these types of alignment points using measurements so I tend to gravitate toward the more fool-proof methods.

 

 

18 hours ago, Dpgsbody55 said:

Great start on the new Fiat.  I like your method of placing pins on the tail plane joint.  Some good improvements here already, too.

 

 

Cheers,

Michael

Thank you Michael!

 

 

9 hours ago, ROM said:

Hello

So happy to see you starting this kit.

I love PCM kits, and this is in my stash as well.

Looking forward to see next steps

cheers

Thank you!  The wing join is going to be a fun adventure so stay tuned for that one.

 

 

9 hours ago, RCPlym said:

 

Just the sort of kit I like! 

Nothing better than figuring out how to get best fit etc.

 

The much maligned FLY Hurricane was my first build on returning to the hobby after over a quarter of a century. 

Loved building it. Then I found some rather negative reviews about it's fit etc. and wondered what happened to modelling skills during my hiatus.

Then I got a Kotare Spitfire and my question was answered. None needed as it is almost self-assembling! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 

Before starting on this one, I was contemplating starting a Kotare Spitfire or K-4.  I appreciate good kits as much as anyone but I'm also subject-driven and there are sometimes no choice given certain subjects.  

 

Back to the build... Once the glue on the stretched sprue is dried, I seep a bead of black CA along the valley between the stretched sprue and the stabilizer. This essentially extends the trailing edge of the stabilizer a bit so that I can now sand the edge down at an angle, reducing the thickness without sanding away the detail near that edge.

 

Can't really see the results but the trailing edge has been thinned quite a bit.

 

The Fiat G.55 will be riveted so the stabs are a good place to start.  I use a rotary rivet wheel (Galaxy Tools) with 1.00mm spacing.

 

Once the rivets have been made with the wheel, I sand the rivet lines down to remove the raised mounds of plastic around each hole.  This results in a more subtle appearance.  The surfaces are given a temporary pastel wash to check the rivets and also the panel lines to see if any need to be touched up.

 

The supercharger intake is a two-piece affair so I glued them together.

 

After the seam has been smoothed out, I added a engraved line around the intake near the opening to represent the end cap part.

 

The thick prop blades have been thinned out.

 

Returning to the cockpit area, I've gone ahead and replaced the shoulder straps with lead foil to add to the scratch-built back pad.

 

Here is the resin instrument panel provided in the kit. I never assume that aftermarket parts cannot be improved.

 

Based on reference photos, I've decided to add instrument bevels to the main panel using the Airscale set.  These are very small and fine.  Easily distorted after removing from the fret.  Forget about removing the fret stubs on these delicate parts.  I found the best way to attach the bevels is to carefully push them into place with an x-acto blade point.  Once set, I used thin CA glue and applied it near but not touching the part.  Capillary action will draw the glue to the part without moving it.  If need be, you can gently push the pool toward to part. One of the resin circular bezels was badly misshaped so it was cut off and replaced with a double-punched piece of sheet styrene.

 

The panel is now given a coat of primer.

 

 

[alaninaustria]

Amazing work and attention to detail! I just love your work and methodical approach to the build! 
Cheers

Alan

[shadowmare]

Old Czech shortruns are terrible, but with your powers this will turn into a real gem.

[RCPlym]

3 hours ago, shadowmare said:

Old Czech shortruns are terrible, but with your powers this will turn into a real gem.

 

No they aren't! They just need some loving care and attention! 😁🤣🤣🤣 

[amurray]

On 6/19/2026 at 5:02 AM, RCPlym said:

Another rabbit hole to be investigated.

I have never made a model of any Italian aircraft.

I like the look of this one, so out with the card again... 

 

Following. 👍👍 

 

IMO the Italian color schemes are the best to come out of WWII.  And their designs are the "Ferrari's" of WWII.  I only wish I had the skills necessary to execute them.

[amurray]

On 6/20/2026 at 7:39 PM, Thunnus said:

Thank you Gilles!  I usually find starting a new kit more fun than finishing an old one!  I need more discipline to finish the projects I start.

 

 

Thank you Kevin!

 

 

Thank you!  Italian aircraft are often overlooked.  Same with Russian aircraft.  I wish there was a good IM version of the La-5N.

 

 

Thanks Jay!  Thanks to these small short-run companies, we have access to a decent representation of the Fiat G.55.  I'm grateful and look at the limitations of the short-run productions as more "fun" for me.

 

 

Thanks Troy!  I've not settled on a scheme yet but I'm juggling between one of the mottle schemes or the experimental splinter scheme.

 

 

 

I understood what Jay meant and I didn't interpret it as a disparagement of the kit or company.

 

 

 

I'm really bad at lining up these types of alignment points using measurements so I tend to gravitate toward the more fool-proof methods.

 

 

Thank you Michael!

 

 

Thank you!  The wing join is going to be a fun adventure so stay tuned for that one.

 

 

Before starting on this one, I was contemplating starting a Kotare Spitfire or K-4.  I appreciate good kits as much as anyone but I'm also subject-driven and there are sometimes no choice given certain subjects.  

 

Back to the build... Once the glue on the stretched sprue is dried, I seep a bead of black CA along the valley between the stretched sprue and the stabilizer. This essentially extends the trailing edge of the stabilizer a bit so that I can now sand the edge down at an angle, reducing the thickness without sanding away the detail near that edge.

 

Can't really see the results but the trailing edge has been thinned quite a bit.

 

The Fiat G.55 will be riveted so the stabs are a good place to start.  I use a rotary rivet wheel (Galaxy Tools) with 1.00mm spacing.

 

Once the rivets have been made with the wheel, I sand the rivet lines down to remove the raised mounds of plastic around each hole.  This results in a more subtle appearance.  The surfaces are given a temporary pastel wash to check the rivets and also the panel lines to see if any need to be touched up.

 

The supercharger intake is a two-piece affair so I glued them together.

 

After the seam has been smoothed out, I added a engraved line around the intake near the opening to represent the end cap part.

 

The thick prop blades have been thinned out.

 

Returning to the cockpit area, I've gone ahead and replaced the shoulder straps with lead foil to add to the scratch-built back pad.

 

Here is the resin instrument panel provided in the kit. I never assume that aftermarket parts cannot be improved.

 

Based on reference photos, I've decided to add instrument bevels to the main panel using the Airscale set.  These are very small and fine.  Easily distorted after removing from the fret.  Forget about removing the fret stubs on these delicate parts.  I found the best way to attach the bevels is to carefully push them into place with an x-acto blade point.  Once set, I used thin CA glue and applied it near but not touching the part.  Capillary action will draw the glue to the part without moving it.  If need be, you can gently push the pool toward to part. One of the resin circular bezels was badly misshaped so it was cut off and replaced with a double-punched piece of sheet styrene.

 

The panel is now given a coat of primer.

 

 

You wrote:  "Back to the build... Once the glue on the stretched sprue is dried, I seep a bead of black CA along the valley between the stretched sprue and the stabilizer. This essentially extends the trailing edge of the stabilizer a bit so that I can now sand the edge down at an angle, reducing the thickness without sanding away the detail near that edge."

 

I like what you have done.  Instead of sanding and losing detail you've marginally extended the surface.  Brilliant!  A suggestion that strikes me for next time:  Instead of using the rounded stretch sprue, use Evergreen or Plastruct pyramidal pieces.  Less filling and a super sharp trailing edge.  Or, use their half-round pieces.

 

Love this build!

[amurray]

On 6/19/2026 at 1:49 AM, Thunnus said:

Thanks for the comment!

 

 

As usual at the beginning of a build, I am jumping on different things randomly as they grab my attention so sorry for any confusion.  The molding ridges on the landing gear bothered me so I decided to clean them up.

 

Typically, I will use an x-acto blade to scrape off the molding ridge but I'll use a scriber at the junctions.  I also use a razor saw to lightly score around the junctions to give definition at the edges.  This removes remnants of the molding ridge and also help hold a pastel wash when it comes to that point of the build.

 

Next I took a look at the gun barrels.  This aircraft was very well armed with five guns: one 20mm MG151 cannon firing through the spinner, two 20mm MG151 in the wings and two 12.7mm Breda-SAFAT machine guns above the engine.  The engine cowling has the gun troughs molded in but no opening for the gun barrels.

 

The shallow depth of the troughs limited the size of the drill bit.  I used as large a drill bit I could without blowing through the top of the cowling.

 

The trough ideally needs to be deepened but that is beyond the scope of this particular project so I'm just going to glue in short sections of brass tube into the drilled openings to represent the gun barrels.

 

Oh... and that raised circular port between the gun troughs was bothering me so I shaved it down in height.

 

The wing gun barrels are enclosed within an aerodynamic fairing. The sink marks need to be filled and the molding ridges cleaned off.

 

I used black CA glue to fill the sink marks.

 

The spinner has a hole to accommodate the cannon blast tube.  

 

I drilled a hole within the hole and placed a short section of brass tubing for the blast tube.  The plastic barrel tips for the wing guns were cut off and replaced with brass tubing.

 

Jumping over to the horizontal stabilizers, I've glued them together.

 

I want a more positive connection for the stabilizers to the fuselage so I thought I'd use plastic rod (actually plastic tube) for this.  First, holes were drilled into the fuselage parts, two for each stabilizer.

 

The stabilizers were then attached using tape, making sure they were in the correct position and perfectly square.

 

I then sprayed black paint through the holes on the interior side.  This will mark the exact locations where the plastic tube will go.

 

Little sections of plastic tubing were glued into the holes to serve as mounting pins.

 

Now, I have a much more positive connection for the stabilizers.

 

A quick check to see if the stabilizers are perpedicular to the tail.

 

I noticed that the trailing edges of the stabilizers were very thick and I want to thin them down a bit, without destroying the fabric detail on the control surfaces.  The first step is to glue stretched sprue along the trailing edges.  This needs to completely cure before I move on to the next step.

 

You wrote:  "I then sprayed black paint through the holes on the interior side.  This will mark the exact locations where the plastic tube will go."

 

Genius!  I have struggled for years with learning a simple alignment method for this and you now provide it!  

 

My struggles understanding simple concepts were summarized by my mother:  "Son, you are not the brightest of my sons but you make up for it by not being very smart."  I'm still trying to discern the meaning of her comment.