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Posted

Hi all,
The next model will be another 3D printed model from MDesign in Bulgaria.
An Armstrong-Whitworth FK.3 'Little Ack', Serial No.A1488 of No.50 Training Squadron, based at Narborough, June 1917.
This aircraft was fitted with dual flight controls for the student pilot in the rear cockpit,

 

Mike

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi all,
First up for working is the cockpit.
This particular aircraft was one of a contract batch, serial numbers A1461 - A1510, that were contracted out (87/A/475) during 1916 from ‘Armstrong-Whitworth & Co. Ltd’ of Gosforth, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
They were to be built by ’Hewlett & Blondeau Ltd’ of Oak Road, Leagrave, Luton.
The contract required dual controls were to be fitted as these aircraft were intended as trainers and not for service use.

 

The kit is intended to built as an operational aircraft of No:47 Squadron.
Therefore, it has a stool seat in the rear cockpit and no duplicated flight controls. 

 

I chose to fit a pilots type Wicker seat in the rear cockpit and as such matched the pilot's seat with the same Barracuda Studio resin seats.
Seat support bars were cut from Brass tube.
To add duplicate flight controls in the rear cockpit required that a false floor be fitted to span both cockpits. 
That was cut from 0.8 mm thick plastic card and CA glued to the kit floors.
The kit supplied control column assembly was drilled and pinned to locate positively into the false floor.
The control column and rudder bar for the rear cockpit were created from unused 3D printed parts with some Brass tubing.

 

There's only so much accuracy that can be added, mainly due to lack of cockpit information for this aircraft.
So some guesswork is necessary, based on similar aircraft types,

 

Mike

 

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Posted

Hi all,
A couple of updates.
It seems there was a linen screen across the cockpit and behind the pilots seat.
This was made with 0.2 mm thick plastic card and brass tube.
I've also added photo-etch lap belts to the seats.
These were not used on a previous build,

 

Mike


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Posted (edited)

Hi all,
Time has come to close up the fuselage.
The cockpit has been modified for a trainer aircraft.
The kit as supplied is an operational aircraft and is totally different.

 

The paints used are Tamiya acrylic and MRP lacquers. 
Wood effects are Windsor and Newton oil paints (Griffin Alkyd).
Resin seat are Barracuda Studios and lap belts are spare photo-etch from WNW builds.
Control cables are Gaspatch Type A turnbuckles, 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.
Rear cockpit control column, rudder bar and cockpit screen are scratch built.
Instrument panel has Airscale decals applied and two switch levers from ANYZ.
Weathering was Flory Models dark dirt clay wash and AK Interactive Kerosene wash.

 

Mike

 

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Edited by sandbagger
Posted

Hi all,
Fuselage and all flight surface primed with AK Interactive Grey (AK758).
Undersides rib tapes and fuselage frames airbrushed lightly with MRP White (MRP-004) then 2.0 mm wide tape applied.
The fuselage and undersides airbrushed with MRP Clear Doped Linen bleached (MRP-256).
Masking tapes removed. 
The fuselage and undersides airbrushed with MRP Clear Doped Linen bleached (MRP-256) to fade back the rib tapes and formers.

 

Now it's onto painting the top surfaces and fuselage with PC green for the fuselage and brown flight surfaces,

 

Mike

 

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Posted

Hi all,
The upper surfaces of the flight surfaces have been airbrushed.
I've masked off then airbrush the the fin and fuselage markings.
The lower wing and tailplanes are fitted.

 

Next up is to apply the roundels to the fuselage and wings plus a couple of minor markings.
The kit supplies masks for the roundels, but I'll try the easier option of using decals from my spares collection.
Otherwise I'll use the masks,

 

Mike

 

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Posted

Hi all,
The markings have been applied using spare decals and Xtradecal letter/numbers for the serial number.
Slight weather applied using Flory Models dark dirt over Tamiya X35 semi-matte clear coat. 

 

Next up is other weathering, painting of remaining parts and pre-rigging before the upper wing is fitted,

 

Mike

 

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Posted

Hi all,
A little more progress on the model.
A few areas of minor weathering applied, including wheel splatter on the undersides of the lower wings.
The interplane, cabane struts and lower wing hoops painted using Windsor and Newton Raw Sienna oil paint. 
Landing gear and wheels painted.
Engine and exhaust pipes also painted.

 

Once it's all sealed with a semi-matte clear coat it'll be time to pre-rig the model,

 

Mike

 

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Posted

Hi all,
Just a few updates.
The completed engine has been fitted with the top cover panel.
I added ignition leads from 0.3 mm lead wire (PlusModel).
Also, the support strut for the top cover panel, located between the engine crankcase and underside of the panel.
Of course the leads and strut can't easily be seen.
The propeller is not from the kit as that propeller is not well produced.
I've used the propeller from the Lukgraph BE2c model I made as I used a proper Plane propeller on that model.
The BE2c and FK.3 used the same engine and propeller.
The propeller is painted and just needs the manufacturers logos adding to the blades.
Most photographs of this aircraft show that the propeller was made by F. Tibbenham Ltd of Ipswich.
Their logo is shown below.
Fortunately, the decal set from LF Models (British WW1 propeller labels - part III - 3208) has the logo. 
Once they arrive I'll add them to the propeller blades.

 

Now it's onto the pre-rigging stage,

 

Mike

 

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Posted

Nice one! :speak_cool:

 

The cockpit layout is interesting with the deep cutouts for the pilot. Please tell us how the LF decals are working. Never used them, but they are on my wishlist.

 

Regards

- dutik

Posted
43 minutes ago, dutik said:

Nice one! :speak_cool:

 

The cockpit layout is interesting with the deep cutouts for the pilot. Please tell us how the LF decals are working. Never used them, but they are on my wishlist.

 

Regards

- dutik

Hi Dutik,

I've used LF decals before for propeller logos. 

The decals are OK but they are not cookie cut as they are part of the surrounding carrier film on the backing sheet.

Therefore, you have to carefully cut out each decal before applying to the model.

That can be tricky for just round decals, but even more difficult if the decal is not round.

 

As long as you can cut them as close as possible around the decal edges, they're fine,

 

Mike

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