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Posted

Did the AD-5 [navy] ever have a radar scope mounted between the rudder  pedals? I'm currently building TTMODELWORKS AD-5 and the instructions show a radar scope being mounted between the rudder pedals . I can find no reference pics to back this up, seems a strange place to mount one but I had to ask.

Posted

A "straight up" Navy AD-5 did not have a "radar scope mounted between the rudder pedals". Note that a Navy AD-5 only had rudder pedals for the left hand pilots seat. I'd post pictures but I do not use a 3rd part hosting site.

 

What do you think of the kit? How well does it go together?

Posted
2 hours ago, skyrdredb said:

A "straight up" Navy AD-5 did not have a "radar scope mounted between the rudder pedals". Note that a Navy AD-5 only had rudder pedals for the left hand pilots seat. I'd post pictures but I do not use a 3rd part hosting site.

 

What do you think of the kit? How well does it go together?

I know about the "single pilot controls" , At this point I'm going to leave it out. The kit is very detailed the fit ranges from fair to not so hot . It's been a fair amount of work so far. To be fair this is my first 3D printed kit so I'm kind of going through a learning curve so to speak ,but I'm getting used to it as the build progresses. I had a few parts that were already broken even before I started to "uncage" them. and repairing them is problematic as you have to sand the fracture surface to get any adhesive to work, nature of the beast I reckon. The 3D printed engine is great [ watch those ignition leads!]. I'm finding out that trying to scribe this resin is like trying to scratch 1/4 inch armour plate with a toothpick!  When I "uncage" the parts , they [ the cage and towers] seem to be under a lot of tension , I don't know if this is normal or not.

Posted
On 4/5/2026 at 7:45 PM, CRAZY IVAN5 said:

 and repairing them is problematic as you have to sand the fracture surface to get any adhesive to work, nature of the beast I reckon. The 3D printed engine is great [ watch those ignition leads!]. I'm finding out that trying to scribe this resin is like trying to scratch 1/4 inch armour plate with a toothpick!  When I "uncage" the parts , they [ the cage and towers] seem to be under a lot of tension , I don't know if this is normal or not.

First, there is zero need to sand the surface!!! As the break in 3d printed part is typically very clean simply put some thin CA glue to mate both parts and immediately remove the excess with a paper towel and the seam will probably be close to invisible! Second, to decrease the breaking risk linked to the tensions, cut first the supports close to the printed plate and then cut later the other end, close to the part. Hth. Thierry 

Posted
On 4/7/2026 at 7:38 AM, thierry laurent said:

First, there is zero need to sand the surface!!! As the break in 3d printed part is typically very clean simply put some thin CA glue to mate both parts and immediately remove the excess with a paper towel and the seam will probably be close to invisible! Second, to decrease the breaking risk linked to the tensions, cut first the supports close to the printed plate and then cut later the other end, close to the part. Hth. Thierry 

Also, if you warm the parts with a hair dryer (don't get the parts too hot!) the supports will soften and be less brittle.

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