Valkyrie Designs - 3D - Figures, aftermarket parts and limited production kits

[geedubelyer]

That looks favourable Jim. It's a good choice for a first kit.

Elegant yet relatively simple. Nice one. 

 

I'm interested in your comment regarding fit. 

It was my naive impression that components could be printed to have an interference fit with this technology. 

Why do you think you are having to revisit the parts? 

Are you using a relatively low resolution for speed or are these items printed at their highest fidelity?

Cheers,

Guy 

[Jim Barry]

Yes, it’s a good choice, I think. The radiators could have been something the builder could have wrestled with but they were not too too difficult. TBH this test is not really a test because I knew going in the prints were incomplete)aka fail. But I’m busy with in laws this week and have limited time to retrench. I will actually test soon. I did learn a few things though 

[Jim Barry]

I finished assembly and priming the 1/32 "prototype" in a relatively hasty lazy way to see its overall effect. I'm really pleased with how it came out. I mean, sure, it has flaws but looking past them, I'm seeing success is around the corner. I do need to vent about Elegoo printers and Satellite software. Maybe its me, but the file types the steps along the way (.elesat  or .goo or .3mf or is it a slice file or is it a project file or am I working with an STL file, am I saving or exporting ?? Where's the save as button?? . It's something I'll figure out here soon, but I'm not a fan here. Vent over. 

 

 

 

Printing layout improvements in action. This is going to take 7 hours to print. Fuselage AND wings at 45 degrees this time should help keep it from deforming/underprinting

 

 

 

 

Edited July 6 by Jim Barry

[RCPlym]

Satellite slicer saves non-sliced project/working files in their own format .elesat

Sliced files are saved as .goo

 

The latest version will open most files obj, 3mf, stl and now includes .stp step files. 

 

 

To save working and or sliced files, go to the three lines next to the infinity top left corner. Several options there.

 

Also (if you haven't already) make sure you have UV Tools installed and directed Satellite to it for error detection such as cavity detection etc.

 

Don't be too harsh on Satellite - the likes of alternatives such as ChituBox sometimes produce odd sliced results.

Edited July 6 by RCPlym

[Jim Barry]

Thanks!  I've been hacking my way forward here with the slicer.  And yes, much of it is awesome. I just need to slow down and get my file game on to properly document process now that a more complex job is at hand and one I need to repeat.  I know from actually developing software solutions that users all too often miss the grand design. Now it's my turn to be the stupid user! 

 

 

[Jim Barry]

 

I think I have everything now in place to begin production. Test prints are all 100% and though it's tempting to build it myself to make double sure it's good, I think I'm going to sell it. Kit #000001 . So.. time to request one if this is appealing to you. US$150. Buyer pays shipping and I think the international sales are going to be pricey there on shipping. (like $100 possibly) . Please DM with questions and requests to keep this thread clean. Or email Valkyrie.cycles  at      gmail   dot com

 

Masks complete. Ya'll gonna have to paint the inner part of the A and the R in ARMY because it's not attached to the mask and well, it's way too small to handle independently. The entire US ARMY graphic is just 1 cm but my paint tests prove it works pretty well.... even the punctuation.  A white decal would serve better, but that's not something I can make. (white is not a printable "color") 

 

Also, please note the national insignia is a multiple layer thing. One paints the big blue circle with mask 1, they lays on the star mask and paints white, and then the red dot (centers well because the total circle is part of the mask. If you've ever done a British Roundel mask, you'll be right at home. 

 

Cockpit detail is SPARSE as was the real plane, but I do have an Instrument panel. The stick is fairly simple. You are on your own there. I'm not even sure you could see the pedals but I'll let the builder take that task as they see fit. I'd recommend guitar e-string for rigging which is fairly simple. Wire not supplied. 

 

 

 

 

Edited Tuesday at 09:48 PM by Jim Barry

[Hubert Boillot]

Great !

 

PM sent.

 

Hubert

[Jim Barry]

Next stop: France!

 

 

[Gazzas]

Impressive work, Jim!

[Jim Barry]

Hello Gents,

 

A couple of things

 

in case you missed it. The Supermarine S.4 project is being detailed over here LINK.  I'm really enjoying this Schneider Trophy journey. 

 

 

And, who would be interested in buying a Douglas 0-38. I have a customer who would would like to see that happen, but it'll need buyers to make it worth it.  If esoteric interwar observation biplanes is a hole in your life, let me know. I think I need about 3 buyers. Price at 1/32 estimated at $150. Buyer pays shipping, 

 

 

Edited 6 hours ago by Jim Barry

[Hubert Boillot]

Meehh … not a real interest in an O-38, sorry … 

On the other hand, if you want to continue the Schneider Trophy line, or the 1930s racers, or some less run-of-the-mill airframes of the era, I will be there …

 

Hubert

[Jim Barry]

Yes, I will keep on going with the Schneider series. Are we ready for the Italians??   Interesting rule about that series was once a country won it three times, it ended. The Supermarine S.6 basically put an end to it in  1931.  The Italians almost ended it in 1921 but their 1919 race "win" was voided from a disqualification. 

Edited 5 hours ago by Jim Barry

[Hubert Boillot]

I did get the Mash Models Italian kits, as you would guess … Missed the S-67 though, in my view the best-looking of the Macchis … 

But besides the winners, the other contenders were interesting as well. Like the Gloster VI, the Fiats …

And if you want to have a look at the Lockheed Vega, the Orion, the Northrop Gamma, the Howard racers …

 

Hubert