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1/32 Hasegawa P-51D


Ironwing

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Nice work, Geoff. And nice tip on the canopy positioning too. Never knew that. And the Squadron canopy looks real nice too, especially when you trick it ouit as you have!

 

Jimbo

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Beautiful work so far Geoff. I like your seat (which is a 'Preddy' type seat...I am working on one the same as yours at present). You have clearly carried out lots of research, and your homework has paid off handsomely judging by the quality of your work. Thanks for sharing it, and I look forward to your further progress.

 

Best regards

 

Derek

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Piet, Dave, Jimbo and Derek,

 

Thanks for your compliments, nice to know others appreciate it.

 

 

Dave: To manufacture the seat, I used the pics that Coolie posted over in Discussion as a guide, they were an immeasurable help. It's relatively straight forward. The bottom tube is formed from a wooden plug (balsa) sanded to shape then vac-formed. The back rest is a flat piece of card stock which is trimmed on its edges, with .030 (1 mm) Evergreen rod stock. After the weld has dried, the joint between the rod stock and the back rest are feathered together to eliminate the seam and make it appear as one continuous surface. The tub is then attached to the bottom. Once this is completed, the seat back is bent slightly to achieve the requisite curve. It doesnt take much; the curve is subtle, like everything else on the Mustang. The armor plate behind the seat is flat card stock dressed up. The only aspect of the armor plate which adds a bit of a twist is the angle that it sits at while it's in the cockpit and keeping the headrest verticle. This requires a scribe line to be added at the top (where the headrest is) and a slight bend to be made along that line to achieve the proper angle for it. I also used one of the PE pieces from the Eduard detail set to finish the back of the headrest (wire antennae attachment plate). The Eduard set for the Mustang has some helpful pieces but its overall accuracy isnt all that good. The parts are made to fit the kit parts which, for the most part, are incorrect. As such, the Eduard PE part mentioned is just too thin. I mounted it on a piece of .005 card stock with Zap, sanded the edges clean then mounted that on the back of the head rest.I'll shoot some pics and post them but it will be a few days before I can get that done. I dont have a digital camera and must rely on 35 mm film, then have them put on a disk by the processor. Laurent Boulestin posted some seat pics with dimensions which, again, were of great help. The posting is in Discussion (5-17-06) under the heading

"New Question for Craig and Laurent."

 

Derek, Good to know your working on a Mustang. You understand the issues that must be dealt with in the Hasegawa kit. I've been working on the intercooler assembly and the exit door. again, alot of building to get the area squared off (had to add panels to the fuselage sides). Hasegawa's rendering has the assembly tappered. This is totally wrong. The Eduard PE part follows that taper. No good. The kicker is the door itself. The darn thing is hollow and has a slight curve in both the X & Y axis. Much fun making it (hysterical laughter and head butting the wall) but it's done, I think. Lets see some of your Mustang and hear about some of your techniques.

 

Piet: Not much to say, I've seen your work here on LSP and find it remarkable. Your comment about the seat I take as an extreme compliment. Many thanks.

 

Jim, Hobby Masters is waiting Dude.

 

Be well all,

 

Geoff

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bsarnoffca,

 

Sorry, I didnt mean to ignore you in my last post, Thank you for your kind words. I genuinely appreciate them. I'll definately post the panel and the rest of the interior as soon as they are complete. The Mustang panel isnt very exciting. Its black on black functionality, lends itself to a rather plain appearance. I have some detail drawings of some warning lights that might "colorize" things a bit, but for the life of me, when I look at photos of the panel, I cant figure out where they are. Have any idea where they are supposed to be?

 

In any event, thanks and be well.

 

Geoff

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Some of you have expressed interest in the seat and how it was made. Its quite straight forward. Aside from the bucket which was vac-formed over a wooden mold (quite rudimentary) it's all card and rod stock with the exception of the slight bend in the backrest. The Evergreen rod stock (which earlier I said was .030" is actually .047. It bends easily and welds quickly into place. Leave extra length at the bottom. The seat attaches to the floor via the verticle members as well as to the armor plate.

post-1406-1150664874.jpg

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Seat assembly with springs: These springs assisted the pilot in raising and lowering the seat. In this instance, they are made of .020 solder which has been wrapped around a separate piece of rod stock tightly then removed and pulled open. This is then cut into two pieces and the two resulting pieces are slid over each vertical member on the back of the seat. The verticle rod attached on the center line of the seat back is the the harness attachment point. The edges of the seat are feathered into the rod stock to create a radius which makes it look like one continuous piece from the front leaving the seat risers in place on the back.

post-1406-1150665950_thumb.jpg

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Hi Geoff,

 

Thanks for your words of advice...I shall heed them. My own Mustang shall be completed in due course (I haven't started it yet). The seat I am making is to be a master for a cockpit detail set.

 

A question for you all: Has anyone got a definative (preferably a period shot) picture of the flat bar/rod on top of the seat where the harness straps go through?

 

Many thanks

 

Derek

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Rear of armor plate/seat support: Again just plain card stock, all flat cut and sanded to shape. The seat articulates with the two double verticle seat supports on either side of the plate. The supports pitch the plate aft. This requires the upper section (where the head rest is) to be bent forward in order for it to stay perpendicular to the floor.

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