Ink Jet Printer Decals

[ChrisS]

I have image editing software, and have pretty high confidence that I can generate decent and accurate art, however what I don't know is what my chances are technically getting decent results from my color Ink Jet Printer.

 

Any tips or pointers?

 

My plan is to get some ink-jet friendly decal paper and use microsol's decal adhesive over the art work. I looked through the tips section and there are NO decal tips on LSP

 

Where is the decal-meister among us? Speak!

[MikeMaben]

Arf!!

Hey Chris, you can probably find numerous discussions re inkjet decals

over on HS. The main drawnback is the inability to print white.

The obvious fix is to print on white decal paper then trim the decals

'exactly' at the edges which can be a pain in some cases. The Microscale

Liquid Decal Film you mentioned is a must (good stuff).

Mike

a

b

e

n

...it can be done tho.

I'm no decal meister but I can speak.

arf arf

[P-40]

Here is a link to a store that has different decal papers and the spray needed to use on them

 

http://www.mcgpaper.com/

[Michael Satin]

I've made decals on my Ink jet and my problem has always been their translucentcy. Unless you do them on a white background (no good for stencils or other sorts of things), you can see right through them. I think this might be all right on a light colored model (natural metal?) with dark markings, but not on camo birds.

 

Anyway, this has been my experience. Someone else may have had more luck. If so, I'd love to hear from them!

 

Michael

[LSP_Ray]

Chris, inkjets are a mixed bag! I used Micro-Mark's inkjet paper in my Epson and the ink just beaded - was a total waste of time. In my HP Photosmart printer however, they printed beautifully! As previously mentioned, the ink is quite translucent so you need white under it for anything but very dark colors.

 

As an option, I have an ALPS printer if you want to send me the artwork and I will see how well it will work. Light blues and greys are a real *****, though I had pretty good results using the HP printer for those shades.

 

Also, I have some 1/24th scale resin wheels for the Trumpeter 109's if you want to try a set. They are from France. I ordered a 1/32nd D.520 cockpit, and got 1/24th 109 wheels instead.:-(

[LSP_Ray]

Oh, forgot. Here is my "10 steps to better decals:"

 

10 Steps to Better Decals

 

Decaling is one of the most important steps in modeling. It can make or break a finish. A good decaling job looks like you painted them on. A bad job looks like a bunch of stickers with air bubbles under them. Here are some steps you can take to produce a great finished model.

 

1.) Scan a copy of your decals. If you have a scanner, or at least access to one, it is always a good idea to scan the decal sheet before cutting it up. This way if you ruin a decal you can either print a new one on decal film with an ALPS printer or inkjet printer on inkjet decal paper, or as a last resort you can create mask from the artwork or at least have a record of what you need.

 

2.) Apply a good gloss coat to your model. A gloss coat is vital to reduce silvering. Flat paints have all kinds of microscopic ridges that will hold tiny bubbles of air under your decals. It is these bubbles that cause the silvering effect. It doesn’t really matter what you use for a gloss coat, it can be Future, Modelmaster Metalizer Sealer, or any of the other gloss coats out there – or you can start with a gloss color coat in which case you won’t need the extra step. Try some different methods and see what works best for you.

 

3.) Take a decal or two from your decal sheet of which you won’t need and apply them to the scrap piece of model that you have been using as a test base for your finishes . You have been trying samples of your finish on a piece of scrap haven’t you? By trying an extra decal or two on a piece of scrap we can see if there is any problems with the decals themselves, as well as test decal solvents on them. If the decal breaks up, then you might want to try applying a coat of liquid decal film over them. Also you will want to note how easily the decals come off the backing paper and if the decals want to ‘grab’ the model, giving you little time to position them.

 

4.) Test the sample decals with the type of setting solution you want to use. There are several decal solutions out there. Solvaset, Microsol & Microset, Mr. Decal Softener, etc. Some are stronger than others and different decals react differently to different solutions. For instance, Japanese decals such as those from Tamiya and Hasegawa seem to react better to Mr. Decal Softener. Solvaset is sometimes too strong for a decal, causing it to wrinkle up or curl into a ball and never recovering. You can also dilute solutions with water if they seem too strong.

 

5.) Remove excess clear decal film from your decals. Some decals have large clear areas. This is just asking for trouble as it is usually the clear areas that show silvering effects the worst. The larger the clear area the easier it is to trap air. Master Modelers working on aircraft with natural metal finishes have been known to meticulously cut all the clear film away from decals as it is so very hard to hide decal film on NMF finishes.

 

6.) Apply a setting solution, or at least a drop of water on the model where you want the decal to sit. This liquid will make it easier to position the decal without it sticking to the model before you want it to. It also helps reduce silvering by keeping air out from under the decal. Once the decal is on the model, position the decal where it is to go and blot the water away with a small sponge or soft cloth or soft brush. Gently press down on the decal removing all water – and any air – from under the decal.

 

7.) Once the decal is set and all excess water is gone, apply a bit of decal solvent over the decal. The solvent will help the decal soften and stretch to configure itself to every contour and detail of the model. (Note if you are placing a decal on a flat area with no bumps or dips, you may not need a solvent.) Now let the decal dry naturally. NATURALLY! The decal solvent can soften the decal where touching it at this point will damage the decal. If you plan your decaling right, you can place several decals in a session without having to touch the ones already done. Don’t be surprised if it takes a few sessions to finish a model. If you note any air under the decal after this step, lightly prick the decal with a point of an Xacto knife and apply another drop of solvent. This should help pull any air out from under the decal.

 

8.) After the decals are all dry – at least 24 hours later – a soft brush with a little water will clean any excess solvent or decal glue off the model.

 

9.) Once the model has dried again, coat the model with another coat of gloss to seal in the decals.

 

10.) Admire your work!

[ChrisS]

Dropped you the file in an email...let me know if there's hope on the alps.

 

Also, can we use this decal primer in the tips secion on LSP?

[Craig361]

Thought I would toss this tidbit in. A local printer has a copy machine that decal paper can be used in. I have on more than one occasion taken decal sheets or artwork there along with a blank sheet of decal paper and got them to make me copies.

It is a bit fragile and has to be handled carefully, it probably should have a coating applied.

For a dollar bill it is a very cheap way of getting what I needed. I even got them to enlarge some 1/48 scale decals up to 1/32 for me once. Unfortunantly they are on the verge of going out of business and will no longer be available.

Check around your area printers to see what they have and talk to the most knowledgable person you can the copiers they have. If they have the high dollar color copiers, I'll bet it will run the decal paper.

[Mike Phillips]

I'm getting ready to try an Epson CX5400 printer for decals. The machine is an "all in one" printer/scanner/color copier. The ads for it say it uses an ink called "durabrite" that is smudge and water proof. My old bubble jet printer is dead, so I figure for 149 bucks I cant go wrong, even if it doesnt print decals very well. But I'm going to try it and I'll let you guys know. I'm going to try to pick it up this weekend.

 

 

Mike