Why Use Paint Masks?

[LSP_Kevin]

For those of you wondering if it's really worth the bother to ditch the convenience of decals and paint your markings on, here's a model I built in 2008...

 

 

 

 

In case you're curious, the decals were from Eagle Strike. The rest of the paint work is fine, other than being a little dusty.

 

Kev

[geedubelyer]

Yikes! That's not good Kev  (unless you were hoping to replicate the look of ancient stucco?)

 

I re-read your WIP Kev. You mentioned using an old bottle of setting agent and also Mr.Mark Softer on the recalcitrant decals. Could these have been responsible for the cracking over time? 

Edited Saturday at 07:37 AM by geedubelyer

[nmayhew]

8 minutes ago, geedubelyer said:

Yikes! That's not good Kev  (unless you were hoping to replicate the look of ancient stucco?)

 

I re-read your WIP Kev. You mentioned using an old bottle of setting agent and also Mr.Mark Softer on the recalcitrant decals. Could these have been responsible for the cracking over time? 

 

they may or may not have played a part, but I think Kev's point is if you paint your markings wherever possible, you reduce the chances of the above to zero.

 

there are instances where masks aren't (yet?) practical or even possible eg very complicated nose art or items with ultra thin outlines - but in terms of finish and longevity they are quite simply unbeatable

[LSP_Kevin]

19 minutes ago, geedubelyer said:

Yikes! That's not good Kev  (unless you were hoping to replicate the look of ancient stucco?)

 

I re-read your WIP Kev. You mentioned using an old bottle of setting agent and also Mr.Mark Softer on the recalcitrant decals. Could these have been responsible for the cracking over time? 

 

I suspect in my case it's mainly a heat-related issue, as at my old house my display cabinets were housed in a room with no insulation, and subjected to direct UV exposure during the summer. And with temperatures reaching nearly 45°C here yesterday, you can imagine how they'd handle that! But the paint work remains unaffected, which is my main point, really.

 

Kev

[mozart]

You’ll all know that I would recommend masks every time, not only to avoid things such as Kev is pointing out, but (in my case) primarily because it gives freedom to model any individual aircraft that you want. No more buying sheets of letters and decals, trying to mix and match to get a (usually compromised) scheme. 

[dennismcc]

24 minutes ago, mozart said:

You’ll all know that I would recommend masks every time, not only to avoid things such as Kev is pointing out, but (in my case) primarily because it gives freedom to model any individual aircraft that you want. No more buying sheets of letters and decals, trying to mix and match to get a (usually compromised) scheme. 

This is how and why I started to use masks way back in 2008, I had been buying lots of conversion sets mostly Paragon sets for Spitfires but could not source decals for them, I decided to build a 1/32 Spitfire VIII from a Hasegawa Vb and the Paragon VIII conversion set and bodge the markings.

I could find 1/32 scale roundels and fin flashes but struggled for the codes and serials then I discovered Miracle Paint Masks and the modelling world opened up for me, the VIII was quickly followed by a XII and an XIV.

Yes masks can be a pain and yes they can at times fail, but I still prefer them to decals.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[csavaglio]

It really opens up a world when you get a cutting machine, like a Sillouette.  You can create your own, find fonts (and modify them if needed) to do whatever plane you want, scan and cut kit decals, even from the wrong scale, whip out wheel masks in a minute, or whatever. I got my old Portrait 2 on sale for about $100 and it get used with almost every build, planes or otherwise.  I just did a friend's F-15 he flew in 1/48... I cut the tail codes without much issue, even down to about 3/32" tall letters and numbers. 

 

 

 

 

Edited Sunday at 01:34 PM by csavaglio