DBMK 1/32 Sea Fury FB.11

[scimitarf1]

1 hour ago, LSP_Kevin said:

 

Thanks, Will. Having read through all the advice and threads that have been offered, and not having access to Humbrol 74, I decided to take a stab at mixing my own colour (something I normally hate and avoid doing). I tried a couple of different colour combinations based on comments that I've read, but settled on a mix of Tamiya Deck Tan and Flat Yellow, aiming for something of a de-saturated mustard colour. Here's the result:

 

 

 

In person, the colour is less bright and strident than in the photos, but still resembles YZC too closely for my liking. Still, I'm not unhappy with it, and now need to figure out what, if any, detail colours need to be applied.

 

Kev

That is actually pretty good. From the bit of original we found it was more ZC than what people assume.

 

Interesting point about mixing paint. For the next kits we are planning on putting accurate mixes using Tamiya paints in the instructions. 

[scimitarf1]

On 5/3/2026 at 8:25 AM, LSP_Kevin said:

Thanks again for all the comments and kind words, fellas. I'm nearing the end of work with the wheel bays here, and you can see from these photos the trouble I made for myself by building the bay walls onto the wrong wing section. This has left some elements floating in space, orphaned from their attachment points on the bay roof or sidewalls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even despite my doing this the wrongest and difficultest way possible, I feel this area of the kit is a bit overly complicated, and the most prone to causing errors. A few more parts to install, and then I can think about getting some paint in there. Roy Sutherland tells me that they should be Hawker Primer Yellow, but can't advise on the exact colour, so will have to chase it up.

 

Kev

Our design approach for the Sea Fury was to have a solid base with few parts so if the modeller did not want to add all the detail the build can be simple and quick. The detail parts and PE can be entirely left off. The problem is that if you simplify the detail then it is much harder to remove and then add your own.

 

Going forward we will be using much more 3DP so this should go away. Where wires and pipes are off the surface we will include holes so the modeller can paint the structure and then add metal fuse wire.

Edited May 4 by scimitarf1

[Breaker]

I disagree with the u/c bay. I finished building mine last night and whilst it took a while, it's the best injection molded u/c bar none that I've built and I think it has better detail than resin as it allows for undercuts and volume that was missing otherwise. 3DP is fine but raises print lines and CA glue. 

[LSP_Kevin]

I just want to reiterate - and make as clear as I can - that I think the gear bays are fantastic, and the pain points were created almost entirely by my gluing things together too soon, and in the wrong places. Had I been able to do it the way it's outlined in the instructions - including adding the wires prior to installing the part - things would have gone much more quickly and smoothly. Even so, I managed to get there, with only a single part that will have to wait until the wing halves are assembled before I can install it. And I think the painted-up result looks amazing, even without any splashes of colour, highlighting, or weathering.

 

Kev

[scimitarf1]

1 hour ago, Breaker said:

I disagree with the u/c bay. I finished building mine last night and whilst it took a while, it's the best injection molded u/c bar none that I've built and I think it has better detail than resin as it allows for undercuts and volume that was missing otherwise. 3DP is fine but raises print lines and CA glue. 

Very glad that you like it. We are going to try a few approaches to see what works best. Some subjects are better approached with 3DP, others with IMP

[LSP_Kevin]

Moving along, I've finished off the wheel bays with some detail painting and weathering. From what I can tell looking at photos, the colour throughout was mostly just the primer yellow, with variations coming mostly from wear and tear. I tried fading the paint a little with some heavily thinned Deck Tan, but can't say I like the effect much. Most of the grunge comes from Tamiya Dark Brown panel liner, with chipping and highlights added with a sponge and silver pencil.

 

 

 

Now comes the trick of assembling it all and adding the missing pieces (some of which I forgot to paint)...

 

Kev

[RCPlym]

10 minutes ago, LSP_Kevin said:

Moving along, I've finished off the wheel bays with some detail painting and weathering. From what I can tell looking at photos, the colour throughout was mostly just the primer yellow, with variations coming mostly from wear and tear. I tried fading the paint a little with some heavily thinned Deck Tan, but can't say I like the effect much. Most of the grunge comes from Tamiya Dark Brown panel liner, with chipping and highlights added with a sponge and silver pencil.

 

 

 

Now comes the trick of assembling it all and adding the missing pieces (some of which I forgot to paint)...

 

Kev

 

Well it looks fine to me. 

[alaninaustria]

Damn! Coming along nicely mate! My two kits just arrived! Im looking forward to starting them!

Cheers

Alan

[RCPlym]

On 5/4/2026 at 8:21 AM, scimitarf1 said:

Where wires and pipes are off the surface we will include holes so the modeller can paint the structure and then add metal fuse wire.

 

Bangin idea! Will there be spare holes provided in case of blunders? 👍👍👍👍 😉 

 

With your username, is there any  likelihood of the Scimitar ending up as 1/32 scale? 😂😜😁😁😁😁😁 

[Cicchino]

Kev, 

 

I just received my kit and have been following your build closely. Have you reached a point where you've test fitted the outer wings to the inners? I'm wondering if the spars will be enough to keep things lined up enough to allow the outer wings to slide on with an acceptable join, or if it might be wiser build inner and outer tops and inner and outer bottoms first and then join them along the leading and training edges. Any thought at this point?  (the of course applies to the extended wing option)

 

Appreciate your insight

 

John

[AngryJazz_Models]

Looks mighty fine Kev! Enjoying the posts and progress 😄

[LSP_Kevin]

4 hours ago, Cicchino said:

Kev, 

 

I just received my kit and have been following your build closely. Have you reached a point where you've test fitted the outer wings to the inners? I'm wondering if the spars will be enough to keep things lined up enough to allow the outer wings to slide on with an acceptable join, or if it might be wiser build inner and outer tops and inner and outer bottoms first and then join them along the leading and training edges. Any thought at this point?  (the of course applies to the extended wing option)

 

Appreciate your insight

 

John

 

For the purposes of this build (and the build guide to follow), I'll be sticking with the suggested sequence in the instructions as much as possible. This is partly due to my desire for the build guide to be a true reflection of the process of building the kit, but also, because my unintended deviations from the instructions so far have made the build more difficult, not easier! The provided spars look eminently capable of doing the job, so it will just come down to fit as you say - and my experience so far suggests that this won't be an issue. Besides, I've already joined the central wing parts together! We'll see how it goes soon enough.

 

Kev

[Out2gtcha]

That looks lovely K1!  Seems maybe a bit of a PITA, but also possibly quite rewarding. 

[LSP_Kevin]

7 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

That looks lovely K1!  Seems maybe a bit of a PITA, but also possibly quite rewarding. 

 

I think it's only a PITA if you do things out of order like I did. If you follow the instructions, I suspect things will go a lot more smoothly.

 

Kev

[Greif8]

Nice work on the interior Kev!  I think the fading and weathering are well done.

 

Ernest