Vallejo Metal Color testing

[FalconFan24]

This is a test bed to see what kinda of results can be achieved with Vallejo Metal colors. I used Metal color chrome as the main color. I sprayed a piece side by side with metal color chrome and AK xtreme aluminum.....I could not tell the difference. Picked out a few panels, using Vallejo metal color: semi-matt, white aluminum, aluminum, and Duraluminum. The colors pop out in the pictures but are more subtle in real life....to be honest a bit to subtle. I have always said that Vallejo Metal Color aluminum isn't really an aluminum but rather a used aluminum. It is slightly different to semi-matt when applied over the Vallejo metal chrome.

 

Full build video will soon be on my channel: AreWeThereYetModeling

 

My recommendation if you are planning to use Vallejo Metal color:
-Chrome is a good aluminium 

-Use VMC aluminum is a nice slightly used aluminum color....I think it would be prefect for used planes like a Mig-15, Mig-17 etc

-For best airbrushing results use Tamiya X-20A to thin the paint at 70/30 or 60/40 (Paint to x-20) and don't go above 15 psi. The X-20 makes the VMC dry quickly (10 - 15 mins) and you can tape over it. 

-Use AK intermediate gauzy for a lovely brilliant shine. 

-Alclad Aqua Gloss reduces the shine every so slightly. 

 

 

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Edited October 5 by FalconFan24

[dmthamade]

What did you use for the primer? I'm really happy with the VMC paints, but the primer caused a lot of problems.

 

Don

[FalconFan24]

2 hours ago, dmthamade said:

What did you use for the primer? I'm really happy with the VMC paints, but the primer caused a lot of problems.

 

Don

 

Hi Don, 

I used badger black primer thinned with my mixture formula at 60/40 and airbrushed 20psi. I then let it dry for 1 hour and then sanded the primer with 1000, 2000, 3000 grit. Once that is done I applied a gloss coat on top (I used Future or you can use quick shine). I use future because it cures in 30 mins and can be handled without ruining the gloss effect. 

 

Hope that helps. 

 

[FalconFan24]

On 10/6/2025 at 9:59 PM, dmthamade said:

What did you use for the primer? I'm really happy with the VMC paints, but the primer caused a lot of problems.

 

Don

Don, I was incorrect. I am working on several models currently. For the BearCat I used Vallejo's new Gloss Black Primer and not Badger. I only realized that after seeing my video footage.  

[FalconFan24]

If anyone is interested here is the entire painting process:

 

[dmthamade]

OK, i guess Vallejo must have changed the black primer, as it caused problems with the color coat being pulled up with the primer when masking removed. There were many cases where people had this happen. Good that they changed it, but i'll stick to what i know. Like you, i did a build just to see if i could get a handle on these paints, biggest issue i found with them was the primer.

 

Don

[FalconFan24]

3 hours ago, dmthamade said:

OK, i guess Vallejo must have changed the black primer, as it caused problems with the color coat being pulled up with the primer when masking removed. There were many cases where people had this happen. Good that they changed it, but i'll stick to what i know. Like you, i did a build just to see if i could get a handle on these paints, biggest issue i found with them was the primer.

 

Don

 

Common problem with Vallejo primers. The new primers work better but still need 24 hours to fully cure. Unless you use my mixture formula and you can paint/mask over them in an hour or so. 

 

Here is what the new formula bottles:
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/primers-en/gloss-black-77660/

[jeroen_R90S]

Thanks! This was very timely as I was about to paint my 1/48 Monogram (Revell issue) P-51D and was never happy with the smell and fragility of Alclad. 

I already had (and used) some Vallejo metals but using chrome as shiny aluminium is a good one as, as you already noted, their aluminium is a bit dull. I did find out you need to apply more paint than with Alclad which seems more of a "tint" paint. This was after applying a 2nd coat as the first one was spotty/not covering well enough.

 

It is a bit cool/cold here so I while I did thin the first coat it was really too thin so for the next coat I painted right from the bottle. 

Just a quick snap so not the greatest picture but it gives an idea. Masking and painting some alternating panels + doing the wings in "painted" aluminium is up next, and of course the glare panel, nose colour, etc. It also shows I thought I had a really nice gloss black surface but need to pay some extra attention as it's not that smooth everywhere! This is a learning model so I've just learned something  

 

Thanks! 

Jeroen 

[dmthamade]

I used Tamiya spray primer on my test subject, worked exactly the way i wanted. I favor weathered finishes, if i wanted a shiny finish, i think i would try gloss black with the Chrome VMC paint. My test plane.

 

[RBrown]

That is fantastic!

[Tecnikit]

This is always a problem.

 

As you say above, "chrome is a good aluminum". In other words, the appearance of metals with paints is sometimes just a name.

 

The added problem is that the results can be completely different if you apply very light coats or a single solid coat. Except in very chrome-plated cases, the former usually gives opaque finishes and the latter shiny ones.

 

Polishing afterwards or brushing gently also helps. But often only for the moment. And if you varnish it, you lose the correct shine of the metal. Finally, adhesion is not usually very good with thin layers except for enamels. If you cover them with adhesive tape to make stencils for painting other things, when you remove them, they often take pieces with them.

 

In short... it's always an adventure. I imagine (I'm just guessing) that dissolved metal particles naturally have their own shine. And here the problem is what binder to use. Because if you use clear glossy resin, it will add its own plastic shine, distorting the shine of the metal. Perhaps that is why (I'm just guessing) they tend to have poor adhesion. Because they use just the minimum amount of transparent resin as a binder.

 

To top it off, Humbrol, which decades ago only had very poor glitter-style metallics (although very beautiful, like silver, from a melancholic point of view... Revell Monogram models ...), released a very good line of metallics years ago. But now they have been banned, which is a shame.

 

That planes are precious, The P40 is spectacular. The muted aluminum color is very well done. Congratulations.

 

Javier

 

[jeroen_R90S]

17 hours ago, Tecnikit said:

That planes are precious, The P40 is spectacular. The muted aluminum color is very well done. Congratulations.

I agree, that looks great! A lot better than my P-51 testbed!  

[Tecnikit]

12 hours ago, jeroen_R90S said:

I agree, that looks great! A lot better than my P-51 testbed!  

 

Nooo... 😂

 

Are very different styles.

Yours has a very nice touch with a hint of very opaque black that contrasts with the metallic finish. But the P40 has a style that I personally like a lot, which consists of blurring or adding a layer of ‘fog’ to soften the contrasts.

 

On the other hand, your style is much more contrasting and allows for much more ‘bold’ tones such as black, which gives it much more depth. This is not possible with the P40 style. Each style has its own charm.