orion2 Posted June 8 Posted June 8 (edited) Hello, Having recently found a Dragon 1/35 UH-1N, I'd like to find ways to detail it a little more. CMK makes a couple interior sets, I believe I could use most of the parts. But my question is about the rotor mast : do the UH-1D and UH-1N share the same main and tail rotor masts ? Reskit makes these and they look lovely Thank You Marc Edited June 8 by orion2 John1 1
thierry laurent Posted June 8 Posted June 8 Well, yes and no! With regard to Huey nothing is really simple because airframes are flying for more than half a century! The twin Huey had slightly different parts that were used on some single engine Huey named Huey 2. For instance the NASA used some. However, if you are thinking SEA war airframes compared to eighties twins, there were differences. Nonetheless the Panda/Dragon parts are so clunky that I have no doubt the Reskit UH-1D parts would look better than the twin Huey kit parts. John1 and Kagemusha 2
mudrat Posted June 15 Posted June 15 If you are building the UH-1N, the Rotor mast is the same except its painted black. on the UH-1D/H the tali rotor is on the opposite side as the N. On the N, at the fwd side of the base of the vertical fin, there are screen panels. On the D/H there are louvered vents that take up the same footprint as the N's screens. There are oval panels on the aft end of tail boom. on the N, these panels have RHAW antennas on them. on the D/H, thes panels are blank. On the D/H there are handles aft of the horizontal stabilisers on the tail boom. they are blancked off circular plates on the N. IF you are building the N, the vertical fin trailing edge is a straight line from the tip to the base of the fin. On the D/H. at the top of the fin, the last few inches curve inward. This all can be found in photos on the interweb. I spent all of May backdating an N profile illustration to a UH-1H. Memphis and Pete Roberts 2
iaf-man Posted July 5 Posted July 5 (edited) On 6/15/2025 at 4:46 AM, mudrat said: If you are building the UH-1N, the Rotor mast is the same except its painted black. on the UH-1D/H the tali rotor is on the opposite side as the N. On the N, at the fwd side of the base of the vertical fin, there are screen panels. On the D/H there are louvered vents that take up the same footprint as the N's screens. There are oval panels on the aft end of tail boom. on the N, these panels have RHAW antennas on them. on the D/H, thes panels are blank. On the D/H there are handles aft of the horizontal stabilisers on the tail boom. they are blancked off circular plates on the N. IF you are building the N, the vertical fin trailing edge is a straight line from the tip to the base of the fin. On the D/H. at the top of the fin, the last few inches curve inward. This all can be found in photos on the interweb. I spent all of May backdating an N profile illustration to a UH-1H. On the tail boom these are not handles, but antennas N has different antenna arrangement The worst part of the Panda kit is the off shaped nose, Cobra Company once issued a correction set, molds are at Lone Star possession, but Mike is vey slow at reissuing them all About the rotor details-even if there are some millimetric differences-negligible Ask me how I know? I worked on the Ns About the black mast color-depends on period and air force Edited July 5 by iaf-man Memphis 1
thierry laurent Posted July 6 Posted July 6 Actually the Cobra company UH-1N nose is cheating. It 'looks' better as it is less blunt than the kit one. However the issue of the plastic part is not linked to the tip cross section. The windshield should be shorter and the nose should consequently start higher, giving the feeling it is pointier because there should be a harder slope on the top. I think Cobra choose the best compromise considering the kit issues. Recently I had a look at the resin part a friend has as I wondered how the correction of the master was done. This is not that difficult to do oneself. The guy who made it started with an horizontal cut done from the middle of the tip and going to each side but stopping some mm before each side end to keep the part integrity and add it easily on the fuselage. Then he used files as the more you go far from the tip the less the height of the cut has to be important. Seen from the front you should get a kind of flat crescent shape. When done, he added inside the center of the nose a vertical bulkhead going from its rear to the tip (surely glued on the nose bottom). Finally he forced the two horizontal halves together to be sure the top section was following the top of the bulkhead and glued, puttied and sanded the seam between the halves. This gives a pointier nose! iaf-man 1
iaf-man Posted July 6 Posted July 6 6 hours ago, thierry laurent said: Actually the Cobra company UH-1N nose is cheating. It 'looks' better as it is less blunt than the kit one. However the issue of the plastic part is not linked to the tip cross section. The windshield should be shorter and the nose should consequently start higher, giving the feeling it is pointier because there should be a harder slope on the top. I think Cobra choose the best compromise considering the kit issues. Recently I had a look at the resin part a friend has as I wondered how the correction of the master was done. This is not that difficult to do oneself. The guy who made it started with an horizontal cut done from the middle of the tip and going to each side but stopping some mm before each side end to keep the part integrity and add it easily on the fuselage. Then he used files as the more you go far from the tip the less the height of the cut has to be important. Seen from the front you should get a kind of flat crescent shape. When done, he added inside the center of the nose a vertical bulkhead going from its rear to the tip (surely glued on the nose bottom). Finally he forced the two horizontal halves together to be sure the top section was following the top of the bulkhead and glued, puttied and sanded the seam between the halves. This gives a pointier nose! Maybe the new UH-1Y can be converted,or nose sawed off? Have to have the kit to look at the possibilities
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