mozart Posted January 9 Posted January 9 I’ll be using CA and 5 minute epoxy Ade, depending on location and size of bits to be stuck together. Works with resin so I assume it will be good for 3D? JayW and airscale 2
dennismcc Posted January 9 Posted January 9 I am not a fan of vac canopies but to get a 1/32 scale Defiant I would be more that happy with them, as above just give me a spare just in case. As to glue I use nothing but CA anyway, apart from clear parts for which I use Kristal Klear. Cheers Dennis airscale 1
mozart Posted January 9 Posted January 9 My experience with vac canopies is that, as Iain mentioned, a good PETG one is much easier to work with rather than the overly thin flimsy types. You can be more confident of cut lines, sanding etc with a quality PETG vac. airscale and wunwinglow 2
ade rowlands Posted January 9 Posted January 9 3 hours ago, mozart said: I’ll be using CA and 5 minute epoxy Ade, depending on location and size of bits to be stuck together. Works with resin so I assume it will be good for 3D? I’m fine with using Super Glues and Epoxies but I only asked because I thought I’d seen something somewhere with someone using Tamiya Extra Thin because of the type of Resin they had printed their parts with it was compatible with Tamiya Extra Thin. Of course I may have imagined this or it may have been something completely different. airscale 1
LSP_Kevin Posted January 9 Posted January 9 51 minutes ago, ade rowlands said: I’m fine with using Super Glues and Epoxies but I only asked because I thought I’d seen something somewhere with someone using Tamiya Extra Thin because of the type of Resin they had printed their parts with it was compatible with Tamiya Extra Thin. Of course I may have imagined this or it may have been something completely different. No 3D printing resin is compatible with Tamiya Extra Thin, so I suspect you might be thinking of Iain's and Tim's comments regarding using HIPS (High Impact Poly Styrene) on and FDM (filament) printer, which is an entirely different thing. Kev Iain, JayW, wunwinglow and 1 other 4
ade rowlands Posted January 9 Posted January 9 5 minutes ago, LSP_Kevin said: No 3D printing resin is compatible with Tamiya Extra Thin, so I suspect you might be thinking of Iain's and Tim's comments regarding using HIPS (High Impact Poly Styrene) on and FDM (filament) printer, which is an entirely different thing. Kev Quite probably that. It’s not really an issue now I’ve found that the Rubberised Super Glues don’t cause a reaction like someone has set a Tear Gas Grenade off in my modelling space. airscale 1
Iain Posted January 9 Posted January 9 I never really have an issue with superglues 'fogging' - but then I use them sparingly! As a tip - if using superglues on something like a canopy (yes - it can be the best solution in some circumstances) is to smear a little washing-up liquid on the inside of the clear part. That will prevent fogging of clear components - and can simply be washed off after the glue has hardened. Iain airscale, Kagemusha, Derek B and 3 others 1 5
LSP_Kevin Posted January 9 Posted January 9 8 hours ago, ade rowlands said: Quite probably that. It’s not really an issue now I’ve found that the Rubberised Super Glues don’t cause a reaction like someone has set a Tear Gas Grenade off in my modelling space. I have the same issue, and have recently started switching to odourless CA glues in the hopes that they don't set off my allergies to nearly the same extent - or hopefully at all! It's too early to tell at this stage, so the jury's still out. I'm also not convinced they bond as strongly, but again, need more time with them. Kev Derek B and airscale 2
Martinnfb Posted January 9 Posted January 9 (edited) a brief history of cloth diapers starts here Edited January 10 by Martinnfb Paulpk, HB252, Jan_G and 7 others 10
Artful69 Posted January 10 Posted January 10 On 1/9/2025 at 1:11 AM, airscale said: ... I thought that too Rog, but having spent £26 with my trade discount at hannants on a set of 4 I am not convinced - they seem a little underscale to me - plus they add a big cost to the final kit (if it happens...) ... TTFN Peter Sorry ... you misunderstood me Peter ... I was suggesting that 'I' would upgrade the (provided) Brownings with Master barrels (although be my guest to include them with the kit if you wish!!) Rog airscale 1
wunwinglow Posted January 11 Posted January 11 On 1/9/2025 at 11:50 AM, LSP_Kevin said: .......which is an entirely different thing. Kev ...but utterly complimentary!! airscale and Iain 2
airscale Posted January 16 Author Posted January 16 (edited) right boys and girls... after a few weeks intense design & testing, I have prototyped all parts except the cockpit floor which I haven't done yet. Some are still not optimal in terms of orientation & support, but each has been shot with Mr surfacer to highlight any flaws. If a part is good with the exception of layer lines as they in such low resolution for now, they are saved as a separate stl file including the supports so I can work my way through every one until I have a full compliment. This is everything so far.. ..and a walkaround of the main components starting with the fuselage.. ..nose parts including exhausts & mounts, prop, rear fairing, post aerial & lower radiator intake.. ..cockpit parts including main seat bulkhead with rear shelf, TR1133 transmitter/receiver, seat & stick, IP, throttle & switchgear.. ..tailfeathers.. ..wings - looking at the upper wing. the sections slide together with the join being hidden under the jointing strip.. ..underwing including keyed gear mount and door mounts.. ..the bit I am having the most trouble with is the wing to fuselage joint.. I need to improve that.. I could stretch the wing skin under the fillet and rebate it, but that makes the fillet edge very, very thin so it will either print badly or break away with handling..... ..landing gear - this and many other parts will be done in high impact ABS resin for strength and to avoid the brittleness of the standard stuff.. ..the turret is a highly detailed assembly which took some figuring out - thinking like a modeller, I have to figure out how to make construction easy, rather than muddling through like I do with my own parts.. so the components are coming together, thinking about production, the parts will come in sectional boxes where the parts can be cut & broken out so they can have the supports removed. the wings & fuselage will have had this done already.. ..the box art is coming along, this is the render of one of the subjects using the kit design parts.. ..and finally, the one main problem that needs solving are the transparencies, current discussions are with a specialist thermoforming company where the parts will be vacformed PETG, but will be laser cut so they are individual parts, the theory is that removes all the pain for people and the 3D frames can be dropped on top so, exciting times, I really think I can do this, and if I do it might just be the start of something TTFN Peter Edited January 16 by airscale KiwiZac, Chris_B-1B, Landrotten Highlander and 35 others 33 5
Iain Posted January 16 Posted January 16 ❤️❤️❤️ That just looks bl**dy brilliant Peter - a masterpiece of a kit in the making. I reckon vacced PETG is deffo the way to go for glasings - the canopies I did for my two-seat Spit ended up being flawless - and actually better than those in the Tamiya kit in terms of optical distortion (or lack thereof). I really can't wait - really excited to see this come together! Iain airscale, mozart, Martinnfb and 1 other 4
LSP_Kevin Posted January 16 Posted January 16 Absolutely brilliant, Peter! Magnificent. Kev mozart, Martinnfb, williamj and 1 other 4
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