BiggTim Posted October 31, 2024 Posted October 31, 2024 22 minutes ago, Rick Griewski said: IIRC these were for his G conversion. And Fw-190D. The B needs the VS-11. Same as He-111 I got my VS-11 and VS-111 mixed up!! I wonder how that happened.... MikeMaben, Rick Griewski and Martinnfb 1 2
MikeMaben Posted November 1, 2024 Posted November 1, 2024 8 hours ago, Rick Griewski said: I heard here on LSP that The fawcett set is OOP or maybe available for by special pleading. I have it, it's very nice. Martinnfb and BiggTim 2
dodgem37 Posted November 1, 2024 Posted November 1, 2024 https://ak-interactive.com/es/producto/pack-vintage-trumpeter-junkers-ju-87b-2-stuka-1-32-with-detail-correction-set/ Sincerely, Mark BiggTim 1
Rick Griewski Posted November 1, 2024 Posted November 1, 2024 10 hours ago, dodgem37 said: https://ak-interactive.com/es/producto/pack-vintage-trumpeter-junkers-ju-87b-2-stuka-1-32-with-detail-correction-set/ Sincerely, Mark Hmmm not seeing anything about this
Gazzas Posted November 1, 2024 Author Posted November 1, 2024 1 hour ago, Rick Griewski said: Hmmm not seeing anything about this yeah... when you go to it it says page not found. so it's OOP and only to be found by luck. Rick Griewski 1
Thunnus Posted November 1, 2024 Posted November 1, 2024 I love me a good kitbash! Like what you are doing with the Stuka, Gaz. I have sentimental memories of that old Revell Stuka kit so its extremely cool to see you utilize pieces from that relic from the past. Rick Griewski and Gazzas 1 1
Gazzas Posted November 3, 2024 Author Posted November 3, 2024 Another update on the same small area. I tell ya... none of this would be possible without my electric-toothbrush sander. It's faster than hand sanding, and can get into tight places without damaging raised detail. But anyway... I have the front and rear ends of the nacelle ready to be attached to the airframe. The supercharger scoop and cooling flaps are only held on by blutack... which is clearly visible. The final bit of chopping to get the right size and depth was a 3mm strip from each side to drop the height of the nacelle. The good thing is, that I don't have to change the shape of the fuselage. The propeller spinner is another matter. Neither will suffice. The Revell spinner is tool long from front to back in both the spinner boss and the hub plate. And the shape is wrong. It is more like the shape of the Macchi 205 Veltro spinner than the correct Stuka shape. And the Trumpy spinner is too narrow from top to bottom and of the wrong profile shape. So, again I will have to combine the two and reshape them. Hopefully I can get it right. This is one of chores that makes me wish I had a lathe. I know I could probably pay someone to 3d print a spinner, but I think it would be more expensive for a one-off than I would want to pay. And there is some satisfaction to be gained by doing it yourself. Anyway, Thanks for checking in. Lemme know what you think. Rick Griewski, Greif8, thierry laurent and 6 others 9
Greif8 Posted November 3, 2024 Posted November 3, 2024 Wow, that is some excellent scratchbuilding Gary! Ernest Gazzas 1
thierry laurent Posted November 3, 2024 Posted November 3, 2024 A poor man solution: use a power drill to make a slightly undersized wood master and crash mold the spinner! This is what I would do for a one-off if the combination strategy is not fruitful. Paulpk 1
MikeMaben Posted November 3, 2024 Posted November 3, 2024 Works for me too Gary. Nice work so far ... Trak-Tor, Greif8, Gazzas and 5 others 8
Gazzas Posted November 4, 2024 Author Posted November 4, 2024 16 hours ago, thierry laurent said: A poor man solution: use a power drill to make a slightly undersized wood master and crash mold the spinner! This is what I would do for a one-off if the combination strategy is not fruitful. You mean like a lathe?
Gazzas Posted November 4, 2024 Author Posted November 4, 2024 16 hours ago, MikeMaben said: Works for me too Gary. Nice work so far ... If you mean as a type of lathe? I have done that using a dremel. The difficult thing is having an axis that is straight. In this instance, the axis of the propeller is inside the motor somewhat permanently. So far, the only way I have figured to put an axis in place would be to fill the spinner boss with CA and fit in something solid like a drill bit. Then, I could heat the bit and it would become separated from the CA. Having to do this numerous times to get it centered... I don't even know if it's possible. I like the clamp on the trigger, though. MikeMaben 1
Rick Griewski Posted November 4, 2024 Posted November 4, 2024 I have cut and glued a stack of plastic circles making up a spinner shape close to the goal. Fill in the ridges with appoxie sculpt. The circles have the center hole ready for the lathe shaft. MikeMaben, Gazzas, LSP_Kevin and 2 others 4 1
Gazzas Posted November 4, 2024 Author Posted November 4, 2024 49 minutes ago, Rick Griewski said: I have cut and glued a stack of plastic circles making up a spinner shape close to the goal. Fill in the ridges with appoxie sculpt. The circles have the center hole ready for the lathe shaft. Now that's something I hadn't thought of.
MikeMaben Posted November 4, 2024 Posted November 4, 2024 Hey Gary, the C-clamp on the trigger is so I could get a much slower rpm. I don't use it anymore , I got a David 300 pen shaped drill which I can get down to about 1500 rmp up to 12,500 rpm. It has almost no torque so I can slow it down or stop it with my finger. Highly recommended https://tr-hobby.com/product/pen-type-mini-grinder-david-300/ Gazzas and Rick Griewski 1 1
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