Italeri 1/32 Macchi Mc.202 Folgore

[amurray]

On 4/9/2025 at 5:07 PM, Thunnus said:

Thanks Mike!  Yes, I add a drop of liquid dishwash soap into the pastel mixture to eliminate surface tension.  I think it also helps suspend the pastel particles.

 

 

Thank you John!

 

 

Thank you Ernest!

 

 

It's now time for a flat coat.  I've been using Model Master Clear Flat Acryl for several years now. It has been serving me pretty well as long as I take care not to build up too much lest I get a noticeable frosted haze to my finish, which I would have to dial back with clear gloss.  This is a common issue on many clear flat products.  I read on someone's build somewhere that Mr Color GX-114 Clear Matt is resistant to this frosting so I wanted to try it on this build.  And yes, I've tested this on smaller paint mules so I'm not in for any big surprises.

 

Initial use off the GX-114 has been very positive and I think it will replace the MM Clear Flat Acryl.  It delivers a smooth, uniform matt finish.  It does lighten the underlying color, which is unavoidable just like any gloss coat will darken colors but I didn't see any frosting effect.

 

The Folgore will move into the next phase of weathering, which will be some post-shading work with the airbrush.  Typically, highly thinned browns and black around panel lines, to create streak effects and start filling the exhaust stains.  The bottom has been giving a bit of sponge chipping along relevant edges and that will be augmented as we move forward.

 

 

 

Oh, God!  Yet another build that causes me to circle the room muttering, "I am not worthy.  I am not worthy!  I am not worthy!!"

[amurray]

On 4/8/2025 at 5:11 PM, LSP_Kevin said:

 

That's the point of using it! Scott Taylor of SMS paints (a locally-produced equivalent to MRP) says that using solvent-based clear coats over solvent-based metallic finishes re-orients the metallic pigments in the paint, changing their appearance and generally dulling them. Using a water-based clear gloss doesn't produce this effect, and Scott is working on introducing just such product to his range. And to be clear, Tamiya and Gunze acrylic paints don't qualify as water-based for the purposes of this discussion, as they're both alcohol-based.

 

So, when I need to preserve a metallic finish, or protect fragile paint or decals (home-printed decals especially), I'll use Aqua Gloss unthinned. For most other purposes, I'll use either X-22 thinned with MLT, or SMS Super Clear straight out of the bottle, as I find either of these combinations produce a superior result to Aqua Gloss anyway. In fact, I'll often follow-up the Aqua Gloss with one of the latter options if I'm going for a gloss finish.

 

Kev

Kev,

 

How does Alclad's own gloss finishes enter into this discussion?

 

Thanks!

[LSP_Kevin]

11 minutes ago, amurray said:

Kev,

 

How does Alclad's own gloss finishes enter into this discussion?

 

Thanks!

 

Do you mean their metallic paints? Since they're mostly lacquer-based, I'd say the same chemistry applies, and therefore, so do the same solutions.

 

Kev

[alaninaustria]

Just beautiful work all around John! 

I’d love to see you tackle the 205 Veltro now!!

I really admire your skills and talents!

Cheers

Alan

[Grunticus]

Drop dead gorgeous! What a spectacular model this has become!

[Thunnus]

Ok... so it has been a while since I've posted.  Summer, for me, is typically where my modeling flow is interrupted and 2025 has been no exception.  Lots of traveling, lots of fishing and once the modeling flow is interrupted, it's hard to get the momentum going again.  I've been trying to get back on the modeling bench and briefly re-started my 1/32 Infinity D3A1 dive bomber.  As you may or may not know, I'm filling in all of the rivets with CA glue to get rid of the "oil canning" effects.  The CA glue gave me a headache so I stopped that one as soon as I started.  I'm really tempted to start a brand new project but I hate leaving builds unfinished.

So I've gone back to the Italeri Folgore.  It's the closest to the finish line so if I can check this one off, I may start something new.  I think I stopped this one after giving the model a flat coat after the painting stage.  I added some post-shading using watery mixes of black and brown.  Chipping at the wing roots will be a combination of sponge-chipping and silver pencil.

 

There is a collection of previously painted bits and pieces that need to be added to complete the Folgore.

 

The long retraction struts for the landing gear were a bit fiddly to install but I managed to snake them through the nest of piping in the wheel wells.

 

The canopy masks, after being in place for six months, have finally been peeled off.

 

All of the bits have been attached and I think I can call this one complete.

 

Next will be the completed photos!

[FW190A-5]

A very handsome aircraft and modeled to very high standard. 

[dennismcc]

Absolutely fabulous, a great model build of a really attractive looking aircraft, the undercarriage bay piping details really stand out for me.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[monthebiff]

Really beautiful finish John, perfection!

 

Regards. Andy 

[Mark P]

This is a stunning build! My compliments!

 

Mark Proulx

[IainM]

Beautiful, just beautiful!! Well done!!!

[LSP_Kevin]

Fantastic build, John. Your construction and paint work are really something to admire.

 

Kev

[amurray]

I torture myself by comparing this exceptional build to my own work.  I'm going to take up knitting.  

[ChuckT]

Such a great looking build. Love the camo rings!

[Biggles87]

Pleased to see this again.

Good news on the canopy masks after 6 months.

 

John