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Found 4 results

  1. This is the old Hawk kit, in the Testors box with new decals. For a 1/48 kit it's pretty small. Detail is pretty much non existent, there is literally no interior to speak of except for a pilot figure holding a control column, but I have omitted him. The outline of the colour scheme is also engraved into the surface of the kit, so it's all been either masked and sprayed, or painted freehand. I knocked up a small base for it to sit on out of a picture frame and some floch.
  2. Adrian

    Machloop Cad East

    All is quiet in the Valleys.................
  3. Hi, After the P-6E and the P-36A (still in progress) I continue my Curtiss series. In fact, i've started this build more than 1 year ago, maybe even more. But i swore to finish 2 builds for 1 started until i empty my shelf of doom. So i'm back with this one. Once the cockpit will be built and the fuselage enclosed, it would not be too long i guess. I use the hasegawa old BF2C kit, with the Lone Star Model Hawk III conversion (3 blades propeller + engine cowling + a few fuselage parts around the tail wheel) and resin cockpit. For some reasons, i rebuilt the instrument panel from scratch and will certainly be detailing a few parts in the cockpit (at least the throttle handles). First here is the instrument panel. This picture is one from a F11C, but i assume it is the same : And my own version : After a coat of paint and a few dial decals, i'm pretty sure it would look good. I've also started to work on the engine. Unfortunately, there is an important mould offset. I have a nice Vector resin engine, but i prefer to keep it for another build (F11C and BF2C to come next....) where it will be more visible. Indeed the Hawk III engine cowling is more "wrapping" and hide a bit more the engine. So i am going to use the kit engine. I had to use new push rods as the kit ones also suffered from the very important offset = unusable. I will have to make the ignition wires, too. ANd with the cowling slide on it (one has to cut the cowling for it to fit over the engine. The engine also has to be heavilly sanded to reduce the diameter because of the rockers casings) : The strange engineering for the lower wings also had to be corrected. Instead making simple 2 half wings as usual, Hasegawa chose to make this strange cutting. It just makes a bad joint in the middle of the wing. And because of the wing details, it's not easy to sand it clean without damaging everything. I used rolls of sanding paper. I will get back to the P-36. More to come later !
  4. Hi ! My last finished build. Like most of my last models, it has been started for a while, but was put aside to build something else. So it's the Special Hobby P-36A Pearl Harbor defender kit, built OOB. I just corrected the gunsight, buidling from scratch a new correct gunsight + reflector, thanks to Waroff's informations. Same for the windscreen rods. The painting was done with Alclad gloss black base thouroughly polished and then some AK interactive mixes, mostly based on polished aluminium. The decal set is from Yellow Wings, very nice set, but the decal quality (Microscale) was really not impressive. Nothing comparable with Microscale Cartograf (sorry for the typo !), Fantasy Print Shop or the Special Hobby printer (dont know who it is, but they are always very good !). The colors on the engine cowling were painted as i was sure try to apply the decals here would have ended as a drama. It's the Group commanders aircraft, so it wears the colors of the 3 pursuit squadrons of 20th PG. Nothing special to say about this build. It's not very easy as there are a lot of fit issues, especially as the fuselage is designed for 2 different engines, with different front parts, and it's a bit tricky to make all of this fitting correctly. But nothing impossible with a bit of CA, putty and sanding paper. Here is a link to the WIP thread, if interested : http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=57403?st=0
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