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Found 4 results

  1. And sooo… I crossed the Rubicon and joined the fray. Come to think of it, three months ago, I knew nothing about the Bf 109 and couldn’t even spell Messerschmitt. Then came the arrival of the ZM kit in our regions and the ensuing flurry of activity in the interweb. My curiosity was piqued especially when controversy aroused about some apparent pitfalls of the kit. I knew ZM since I built their Skyraider a few years back. I knew they were serious about their products so when I read about the early critiques, I knew I had to try it out myself and make my own opinion. So during two full months, I read all I could about the subject and when finally I found the ZM kit at a discounted price , I was ready. This thread is not intended as a WIP per se since there are already several ones en cours but rather to share with you my impressions as a ‘consumer’ of plastic. Hopefully you’d find it helpful or at least entertaining. Each one of us has his own opinions about instruction sheets. As a hardened old-timer, I tend to pass on them most of the time. Except in this case… As I knew next to nothing about the 109, I forced myself to READ (really read) the 50-page instruction booklet included in the kit. What a revelation! It’s obvious that ZM put a great deal of effort in this booklet. So instructive about the subject and plenty of useful tips and pitfalls to avoid. A sample The next thing I wanted to check out is that infamous tail join which caused so much ruckus on the internet. It was indeed curious why ZM contrary to the other manufacturers (Revell, Hasegawa, …) decided to provide the horizontal stabs in one piece and the vertical tail in 2 parts. The reason is simple: the real thing was built that way: So I decided to make a dry test. The fuselage halves are taped together. Only the tail top halves and the horizontal slab halves are glued. NO cement between the horizontal slab, the lower tail and the upper tail. Dry fit indeed! The result speaks for itself. No shim and no glue. Just some extra care in cleaning the stubs when the parts are detached from the sprues. Compare with the real thing. Note the thickness of the flange. One thing to consider. Like on the real thing, the vertical tail is asymmetric. Starboard=flat. Port=curved Viewed from the rear. Note same thickness between upper and lower tail. Also perfect 0° dihedral. Again no glue. Note that RH flange is purposely larger than LH. Also peculiarities on the horizontal stab. This kit is so meticulously researched and moulded that any attempt to ‘correct’ it under some wrong assumption would only lead to tragedy. My advice: read the plan and clean the stubs. Happy modeling! Cheers, Quang
  2. Hello guys, I took these photos of a former VNAF Skyraider on display in Saigon. Incidentally the propeller blades on this plane are mounted backwards (back to front). Should they be mounted properly, I wouldn't have noticed this curious detail: a small angled 'ledge' running lengthwise on the trailing edge of the blade. Now that I know it's there, I can see it on several other Skyraider photos although it's hard to notice since the 'ledge' is located on the back of the propeller. Can you A-1 experts shed some light on this curious detail? Thank you Quang
  3. Just a few pictures of my Horten Ho 229, being build for Zoukei-mura´s Concept Note book on this kit. This one here was build from a late test shot, with a very rudimentary assembly manual, no canopy masks and a tight deadline... But for all that it was fun to build it! The detail given on almost all parts is stunning. I did some shots of the finished kit together with my Revell Ju 88A-1 to get an idea of the size of a finished Horten kit. Hope you like it!
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