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Found 142 results

  1. After the pink panther I found this bird in the same book This set a flame to model it as the image is in colour and I have done a PRU blue bird yet. Having secured 2 more Revell IXc boxings I pulled one out and set about working out the best way forward. I then turned to our forums for more inspiration and help and discovered this thread and comments. Has anyone tried the Alleycat Spitfire PR.XI conversion?? So now ordered said set from AlleyCat and awaiting its arrival, but also dug out a Revell Mk.IIa kit as well on MikeC thoughts. Now I really enjoy birds with unusual camo and markings so a Vc from Malta is a perfect buddy for the PR. Now to the scary bits... The Grey Matters wrap round canopy doesn't touch the sides in the IX fuselage, not even close, BUT its much closer in the Mk.IIa fuselage as this has the earlier more rounded screen. The Mk.Vc spits only had the later canopy so a perfect swap of fuselages EXCEPT they are different length due to the changes in engines, but are the same profile from the engine firewalls back. Deep breath and Razor saw out... Side by side First cut is the deepest Joined Pretty chuffed with outcome. Just need to find a juicy Malta scheme for the Vc now. BTW the wings mixed up are a perfect fit, so other than a little rescribing for the PR non gunned wing and drilling the cannon ports on the Mk.II lower section we are looking good.
  2. Inspired by Thunnus amazing 109G-6/AS build earlier this year I've taken a deep breath and started my first advanced conversion build. First cuts and all fits spot on. Reaver prop to go with the conversion = perfect match! Added the Aries radio set for the open hatch at the rear. Designed for the Hasegawa kit it fitted without issue. Cut out the hatch and replaced with the pe. Thinned the inside Aries pit next and a drop in fit. Like Thunnus removed the front bottom pour for the wing strut. Larger oil cooler from Barracuda tested, no problems! Quick dry fit of everything I'd done today. Aaron
  3. Well, since Duchess Arlene is getting close to wrapping up, time to start a new build! This time found a completely NON-NMF Mustang in one of the kit's marking options: Capt Hershel Pascoe's Desert Rat. Can't really remember if I've ever done a 'D' model that didn't have some NMF on it so this will be fun. Looking forward to working on faded finishes. Notice in BOTH of the pictures below how glossy the wing is. In both pictures you can see the reflections from the fuselage markings. Something to keep in mind for the finish... Also have collected a rather insane amount of AM of which I will use liberally on this build, and whatever is left maybe I'll use on my last Revell Mustang in the closet. I've also already liberated a few Eduard PE pieces left over from Duchess Arlene too. This will be an interesting conglomeration of bits... I think we've seen this before... Had the kit for probably 2 years? Got it for $20 in Chattanooga. I think I've tripled (at least) the cost just in AM... Picked up a lot of these bits in Telford over the years, esp the CMK and RB Productions pieces. Really wanted to give Radu's weathered floorboards and his resin bits a try... Did the typical wash and dry... Not nearly as many bits as with the Tamiya kit, as we know. Missing are the two sets of sprues for the wheels/drop tanks... The clear parts are still a problem but I'll get to that later. Here are Radu's worn Mustang Floorboard decals which I've wanted to try for a while. Prepped the floorboard with a coating of Vallejo Gloss Black Primer, the green is MRP Interior Green. Radu's decals are SHINY and very smooth. I angled the floor to catch the light to show how shiny they are. I may do a quick review on them, but definitely this is one of the times when it pays to follow directions. For a flat surface I normally would not put down Decal Solution, and Radu specifically says NOT to use a setting solution under his decals. After applying I pressed them down over the floor detail with a damp paper towel. After drying for a day I sprayed them with a clear matte: Not sure about the silver bolt heads over the black non-skid or where the surface has been worn, but after the matte spray, they look terrific. Similarly, one of my favorite things about the Revell kit is the cockpit... I took a lot of extra time with a toothpick trying to get all the gauges into their recesses on the IP. I came close! Will add some Airscale and Barracuda cockpit stencils to the IP (and the cockpit) to augment the already good details from the Revell kit. I did cut the selector switch decal into three pieces as the center 'switch' is too fat for the decal to settle down on. I SHOULD have just cut off the selector switch and used an Eduard PE piece. But this still looks pretty good. My first experience with CMK products is this resin seat. I bought both options, with and without seatbelts. For Desert Rat I opted for the seatbelts. The detail is really tremendous and extremely easy to paint. Base is Vallejo gloss white primer, then a spray of MRP Interior Green, specifically blotchy. The seat pad is Vallejo Model Air Hemp, followed with a wash of Vallejo Model Air Dark Brown, RLM61 - both brush painted. The RLM 61 was thinned 3 drops paint to 2 drops thinner. Seat belts are Model Master Acryl Tan, with seatbelt hardware brush painted using Vallejo Metal Color Dull Aluminum. After that had set, I used a damp paper towel, slightly dipped into the RLM61 to dab onto the seat for a bit of texture. Really hard to see here. Still need to add a bit more detail to the seatbelts. Its a start! Chris
  4. Hi everyone, Having eventually completed the F-4E, the desire to actually assemble a model rather than admire the contents has returned. The subject of the next labour of love is the old Revell F-15 which I am going to attempt to construct as its 'B' version. I'm not sure why I've gone for another Revell kit other than they are relatively cheap in comparison to the alternatives and this one is nearer to a B than converting say the Tamiya E (I also have some spare parts for this kit if I screw something up!). That said I will inevitably blow this reasoning out of the water by buying more aftermarket stuff than I need and adding stuff like lights that will turn it from 'easy and cheap' to 'challenging and expensive'. The other challenge will be making a mono-chromatic paint finish look real. So here's the kit in question: I understand that the shape is good but it lacks some of the Tamiya detail. As I have a Tamiya C I'm going to try and read across any additional detail that looks ok. I also have Jake Melampy's excellent book on the F-15 and some internet piccies though this version will be an early 70's jet so references are a bit thin on the ground. My initial hit list will include: - Revised cockpit based on the Aires A model pit - Escapac sets (kit has Aces version) - Revised engine exhausts as the kits ones are pretty plain - Added rivet detail - this kit has none - Added detail where the vents are - Added crew (the kit has none) - Alternative sidewinder launch-rails where no weapons are carried - kit ones are pretty crude - New formation lights - Aim-9J drill rounds Feel free to offer any steers on where else I mighty need to go. Please bear in mind that my work-rate is inversely proportional to home command commitments so don't expect a quick turn-round! Thanks for watching.
  5. I have the Revell Bf 109G-10 Erla in 1/32 that I am getting ready to start. I got some extra stuff with it as a package deal which includes the A.M.U.R. Reaver Bf 109G-10 Erla Correction Set. My question is this: Did all G-10 Erlas have the bulged profile that the correction set portrays? Or, just certain ones? The correction set looks to be a really nice bit of kit, but I am not sure I want to tackle something that complex just yet. I have seen this set installed and it looks great, but then I also see quite a few of the Revell kits built as is without the correction and not much is said about it.
  6. As part of some upcoming large scale, 3D-printed aircraft cockpit upgrade designs, very happy to announce a model of the World War Two-era "Set, Complete Radio 522-A" ("SCR-522-A") used by the US Army Air Corps, Royal Air Force and Royal Australian Air Force. In RAF and RAAF service, this radio set was known as the TR.5043. This model is available in 1/32 and 1/24 scales. Other scales are possible. Often referred to as a "Signal Corps Radio", the SCR-522-A was installed aboard many aircraft types. For example, the SCR-522-A was a conspicuous feature of the P-51D and P-51K Mustang fighters, installed behind the pilot's armored seat back and visible through the bubble canopy. Very soon, we will be releasing a highly detailed, 3D-printed cockpit for the classic Revell 1/32 scale Bristol Beaufighter (see posts below). Click here for the Model Monkey products in 1/24 scale and 1/18 scale Click here for Model Monkey products in 1/32 scale. Click here for the Model Monkey catalog.
  7. Hi all, I took my sweet time, but finally finished another build. This time the Revell Me262B-1 nightfighter. I wanted to do another wheels up build. Luckily I had some pilots from my ZM He219 lying around waiting to get in the air. So I did a pretty quick build of the cockpit because not much will be seen with the pilots in them and the canopy closed. All in all it was a pretty tight fit. The rest of the build is pretty straightforward although I had some trouble closing up the gundeck. There are some pretty large gaps and steps to be filled and sanded. The same with engine covers. Just another example where the kit is designed to be build with panels open instead of closed. Anyway with that all sorted I had to make a choice for the color scheme. I really liked the one of Red 8, so went with that one. I found an excellent thread from Mark aka 'Madmax' here on LSP: Link. He did some research on this particular ac which helped me a lot. So all in all I'm pleased with the result. It's not my best build (had some trouble with the canopy as is evident in the pictures), but it looks pretty cool in my opinion. I've left off the external fuel tanks, because I don't like how they disrupt the lines of the aircraft. My guess is that the pilot dropped them before getting in action. Or call it artistic freedom. Products used: - Revell Me262B-1 - AIMS decal 32D007 - Master model FuG 218 antenna - Mr. Paint - Pilots - Zoukei Mura He219 - model stand of unknown brand
  8. Hi all! One reason why my Corsair build has slowed down is that I have taken part in a Facebook group build. The subject is the world famous F-4 Phantom II. For my build I decided to use Revell's 1/32 F-4F kit to depict a worn out Greek F-4E SRA with I will also be using the following aftermarket detail sets: Legend's resin F-4E cockpit Real Model's resin slatted stabilizers GT Resin's exhausts DEF Model's resin wheels and FOD covers Eduard's placards Airscale's dataplates and instruments
  9. I've been working on this on and off for the last few months and have finished it off this week. I've used the classic Revell 1/48th B-17F kit and coupled it with Koster's vacformed beautiful early Fortress conversion set. This comprises a new rear fuselage with the distinctive 'shark fin', a new early nose and cockpit transparency as well as other various vacformed clear parts, along with some additional air intakes for the early oil cooler set up - all in all a very comprehensive conversion set. You have to undertake other mods to the Revell kit such as shortening the nose (the later Forts had a longer nose due to the heavier rear fuselage needing to be rebalanced), add additional seats to the flightdeck as well as reshaping the later paddle-bladed props to the earlier 'needle' type. The cowl flaps have to go too, as these weren't introduced until the D-model. They say a picture is worth a thousand words so here's a good summary of the work carried out: DSC_0063 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I started with the Revell F-model kit rather than the Monogram G-model as the nose is far easier to modify - I just needed to blend in the larger cheek windows and then open them up in the shape of the smaller windows seen on the earlier models. Here you can see I have removed the necessary section to shorten the nose, as well as removing the rear fuselage and the Koster rear part is being offered up for size: IMG_E1388 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I decided to do a later scheme used by the RAF on their Fortress Is which was slate / extra dark sea grey uppers with PRU blue undersides. I used my favourite Xtracolor enamels with generic Xtradecal codes and insignia to cobble together a 90 Squadron machine which was operated out of Polebrook in the Autumn of 1941. DSC_0091 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0058 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0064 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0066 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0068 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0070 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0073 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0081 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0082 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0088 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The fit of the Koster parts was exceptional - once they were removed from the backing sheet and sanded correctly it was like working with an injection-molded kit. In fact, the Koster parts fitted better than the Revell kit! The only tricky area was the nose transparency - this was a little too large to fit the Revell nose, but some careful trimming and careful blending with Milliput solved the problem. I'm now trying to get hold of the 1/48th Privateer conversion, but now Koster kits are OOP I'll have my work cut out - and they're currently going for silly prices on eBay! Regards to all, Tom
  10. So, we are still on quarantine here in Manila, Philippines, so I decided to start a build. I have the OLD revell harrier GR1, and I have had this kit for almost 10 years in my stash, along with a resin nose conversion to a GR3. I totally forgot the one who made this, but I want to give a shout of thanks! Anyways, here we go. The resin nose fits perfect, and provides that characteristic look of the snoopy nosed harrier. Generally the Revell harrier is correct in "outline", but requires corrections and added details. Foremost is the exhaust blister fairings. They're triangular in shape, instead of cylindrical. So I decided to plaster on a styrene sheet, added epoxy putty, and started sanding away. I wont be after a perfect shape, but enough to correct the obvious.
  11. another kit finished this afternoon :
  12. Hi everyone, coming soon a small and inexpensive way to decals 1/32 Fw 190 A/F/D oleo legs with the markings not included in the Hasegawa or Revell kits. The sheet also contains one 'off-topic item' - a manufacturers plate for the control stick. There are two complete sets of markings plus some alternative markings. Thanks for looking
  13. Hello guys I finished another Messerchmit BF 109...what else This is 109 Nr. 13 in my collection and its a Revell kit with mix of Eagle Calls and Hasegawa decals. Unfortunaly I had problem with EC decals, both number 7 decals along with two fuselage crosses just disengrated when put in the water. Luckily for me had Hasegawa boxing with same markings so I used those . That's why there is a slight difference in decal color. As for the model itself this is my third Revell Bf 109G-6 finished along with one G-10 and I really starting to hate that landing gear and prop assembly. Rest of the model is more than ok with exception of MG covers which I replaced with resin ones. Model painted with Model Master Authentic enamels with Valejo varnishes. Here are some pictures, hope u like the model One is Hasegawa kit ..Can u guess which one
  14. Well I hope you are all well. I have been ill and not going to post office for a few more weeks so not taking orders but want to share with you a number of products that are available and can be shipped once I am feeling better. 32P021 Gloster Gladiator Export parts for Norwegian and Swedish J8 /J8a £12.00 Coming soon - 32F002 Hans-Joachim Marseille £TBC 1/32 Ju 88 A-1(F), A-5(F) and D-2 rear bomb bay camera fairings Thanks for looking and stay safe. As we modellers are all used to social distancing and wearing masks and latex gloves everything should be business as usual!
  15. Here is the next build coming onto the bench. This kit means alot to me i purchased this kit the day my youngest daughter was born some 3 years ago so that i could built it with the UK scheme with the HUGE heart on the belly. This is also a reminder of how time flies by so fast! The Kit : Revell Revell BAe Hawk T.1A Markins : XtraDecals XX245 or XX307 208(R) Squadron, 4TFS RAF Valley, 2009 Display aircraft I started unpacking the kit yesterday and glued some of the cockpit teaching my oldest daughter how to cut parts off the sprues. I was hoping to get some Am ejection seats but cant really find any so ill build it like this OOB. The detail level is actually pretty good One of the fuselage sides is seriously wrapped, im hope ill be able to fix that. Maybe with some hot water. Cheers
  16. Hello All, As promised, here are the first instalments of my own thoughts on the new Revell 1/32 Spitfire IIa kit. Following in the sure footsteps of Iain Ogilvie and Jenn Wright, this will be very much my own opinion of the kit as I wanted to personally find out for myself what all of the fuss was about and was therefore determined to buy a kit ASAP in order to do this review. Apart from giving the kit a 'once over', the other reason for this assessment and review was to do something that all of the members here have been asking - tell them if there are any anomalies, and more importantly, how to actually fix them! First impressions on opening the box My kit came in just a fraction under £20.00 to buy. The plastic is a soft pale green-gray colour and there appears to to be in excess of 180 individual parts in the kit. My immediate first impression is that this kit has a good level of detail and number of parts for the cost, making it very good value for money indeed. Looking at the kit parts, the current trend for rivet markings represented by small hollows is very evident. This is not overly done - not as finely executed as on the Tamiya Spitfire kit, but better than the Trumpeter or Hobby Boss kits - and will easily be lost under a fine coat of filler or layers of paint. The detail parts look simplified, but generally accurate in shape and the cockpit is surprisingly well appointed when compared to many of the more well established and elderly Spitfire kits in this scale. The decal sheet looks like it is high quality and should bed down well on the kit and look good. More to follow in due course... Derek
  17. Hi Guys, Back with another project that's going ahead at a cracking pace. I was at the Essex Model Show a few weeks ago and saw a Dragon 1/48 Mistel 6 on the shelf of one of the traders. So out with the fivers and I'm now the proud new owner. The week after was the Avon Show and I was on our club stand (Wiltshire Scale Modellers) and met up with Wunwinglow who took the kit with the intention of scaling up some of the parts and making them in 3D. Also got my hands on the new Revell Me-262A single seater courtesy of Andy Hills at Antics Models, another club member. I had already sourced the He-162 online, ordered a CMK Ejection Seat and a Yahu IP. A Kit: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr A Book: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr An Idea! Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More to come!
  18. Old build I did at the beginning of 2019.
  19. I've just cleared the bench of a completed build, treated myself to new self healing mats, deep cleansed all my tools, brushes, airbrushes, etc. Excitedly grabbed that next box from the pile which happens to be the old Revell AH-64 Apache. Start to empty sprue bags and check out the Flightpath photoetch set. All is good until I get to the clear sprue. Yes you guessed it, its carnage in there. Bits all over the place, and THIS. https://flic.kr/p/2icFqR6 Has anyone any suggestions other than pack it away and look for another kit on eBay going cheap?
  20. Hello, while I wait to get back home to keep building my Ju 87G, I'll be posting photos of my Do 335 from Revell/Monogram. The kit is actually 45 years old, but it still holds up well when compared to its Tamiya counterpart.
  21. Here it is http://www.ipmsdeutschland.de/FirstLook/Hersteller_News/Revell_News_2020.html There are no completely new tool aircraft except for a snap-together F-18, though I suppose the 1/32 F-18F will be as welcome as it was inevitable. There are some welcome reissues and reboxes of kits from other manufacturers, notably the Special Hobby 1/32 Tempest and the Dragon 1/48 Ju 188A-1.
  22. New build had some fun getting the covers to fit. Lots of messing around and trimming etc. Ordered some pe rudder pedals, extra instrument panel and resin control stick for back seat area. Have a nice selection of images of this plane in various states of decay/scrap/souvenirs so need to decide what level to work to. May well make a little dio.
  23. New little sideline project whilst waiting for paint to dry/things to arrive on the Liberator. Spent the afternoon assembling the railway gondola to check the He162 fitted!
  24. hello all , my last kit , another mustang .... (sorry ) : voila voila
  25. Gday everyone, longtime lurker first time (in-progress) poster. I'm using an old photo bucket account for my pictures but am considering different options in the future depending on how the pics look on here. Input and comments welcome. Anyway, the build. Revell's 190s. Fantastic bang for the buck, y'all know what to expect. This one is an OOTB to break in a new airbrush, new paints and some new surface detailing techniques. Some more successfully than others. Construction is fine, plenty of mold lines to clean off, but overall very nice fit. Construction progressed smoothly. And onto the main event. Black primer over everything. Plenty of flaws, but this one has no ambitions of being a contest winner. I've drawn on rivet lines and carved out a stressed skin look, to break up the shiny smooth surfaces. Alclad airframe aluminium down over areas to be chipped later Next up, some fancy MRP paints! Thanks for reading. D
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